Fake Mobil1 oil

[Proxyon]

Hello. I live in Europe and for the last 4+ years I have used Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 synthetic oil. Never had any issues or bad experience with it. However, the question of its genuineness has always been in my thoughts. I have watched couple of videos on youtube (mostly in Russian), claiming they know how to distinct the fake Mobil1 oil from the original. They compare the tubes, lighten the red "O" in "Mobil" with UV light to see if it changes the colour, scrutinize the manufacturing date under the label, search for discrepancy between the labels. I don't know how reliable these tests are but honestly the oil that I bought couple of days ago (still in the tube unopened) fails all these tests which would mean it could be fake too. It is also important to say that despite the massive regulations and control our market is flooded with oils of unknown origin. There was a scandal here couple of years ago regarding an illegal factory which produced unlicensed low quality oil putting it into boxes which looked original. They arrested these individuals and sued them but I don't know how everything finished. Of course, I always try to buy my oil from reputable stores and they all claim their oils are genuine and they are all licensed but the doubt always remains. Anyways, I have couple of questions, so you guys might be able to help:

1. How do you make sure that the oil (especially Mobil1) is genuine?
2. Do you just buy oil trusting the merchant or do you demand any additional information about it?
3. Could the UV light be used as a reliable test to distinct the label and its originality?
4. Have you ever come across fake oil?
5. Have you ever sent samples to a lab to compare if a product has the same specifications as the manufacturer claims?

Thanks a lot for the answers in advance.

By the way, I have made some pictures of the tube, so they are available to be attached if anyone likes to see them. Who knows, maybe the experts would be able to judge just by looking at them. The Youtube videos are also ready to be shared.

 

[Imp4]

1. Buy from a reputable retailer.
2. If you're really OCD, make sure the package seal is intact before you purchase.
3. Worry about other more important stuff.

 

[joekingcorvette]

I have been ok so far with Wally W mobile 1.

 

[4WD]

Mine always have a snap cap and foil … just came back from a long trip to see a box of M1 AFE (Walmart.com) jugs sitting on its side … did not even bother to stand them up … never had the first leak after decades of use …

 

[Cujet]

You could compare the oil in question to another synthetic of the same viscosity, using a freezer and test tube test like the link below.

If your "fake" oil is really slow to pour, when compared to a known good sample, it's likely to be "not synthetic" . But, it's good to know that minor differences indicate nothing.

Start the video about 5:40 to see the test.

 

[dbias]

Evidently a lot of stuff in Russia is knock off fakes. Major retailers most likely are good I would think as they have established supply chain without too many middlemen who could benefit from buying fake products.

 

[Proxyon]

I don't think comparing the oils viscosity or the speed they pour will tell me anything about the originality. The fakes are so "sophisticated" that they easily imitate the originals. I am mostly concerned about the ingredients.

Here are two videos of these guys comparing the real oil with the fake ones. Seem that the tube and some little marks make huge difference:

Mobil 1

Mobil 1 vid

And here are pictures of the oil I bought:

 

[oil_film_movies]

Please show pictures of your labels, and you can even email those pictures to Mobil or give them the URL to this thread for them to comment on.
It's easy to upload pictures from your computer at home. Just use the "Full Editor" button, then look near the bottom for the "Picture Uploader" red link.

Originally Posted by Proxyon
I don't think comparing the oils viscosity or the speed they pour will tell me anything about the originality. The fakes are so "sophisticated" that they easily imitate the originals. I am mostly concerned about the ingredients.
The freezer pour test will test for genuine synthetic oil, as the cheaper stuff (GroupII or cheap vegetable oil) has more wax in them which thickens more at cold temperatures, so it will prove it is synthetic oil at least, which is good, but there is more to do if you want to:

We recently saw a VOA (oil analysis) done on Ravenol DXG 5w30 which actually had the old formulation (sodium high) in a new label for dexos1 Gen2, wrong stuff in a bottle that looked good anyway! We don't know if Ravenol did that, or if somebody substituted in Valvoline synthetic (unlikely; probably a Ravenol factory ethical problem).
So you can do a VOA on your oil and it should show the "signature" elements PPM concentration. That, and the freezer flow test, will assure you its the right oil.

 

[Donald]

The huge companies like Walmart will never sell fake products. At least not that they are aware of. Too big a risk to their reputation. There will be the occasional slime ball who returns oil to Walmart and has filled the container with used oil or diesel fuel or bulk oil. But that is few and far between.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Usually fake oil is when you have a lube shop do it, and they draw from a drum that says "Mobil1" when they really just re-filled that drum with cheap 10w30 conventional. Nobody would know the difference, unless they did a VOA or UOA or freezer test off what they drew from the sump, not likely.
I read a long time ago when a shop got caught because the vendor (maybe Mobil synthetic & conventional supplier) noticed the shop almost never bought Mobil1 syn, yet did a lot of oil changes with it. Ratted them out I guess.

 

[alcyon]

If you dont live in Russia or Romania then you dont have to worry about fake oil. By the way, your username sounds familiar, it sounds like that Dutch Euro-Space-Disco outfit fronted by Michiel Van Der kuy.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

At the retail level this really isn't an issue in the United States because motor oil is relatively inexpensive so there isn't a lot of profit to be had by counterfeiting. Occasionally one will hear a story about some oil shop using conventional oil but charging for a higher priced "synthetic" oil or some cheap SOB who does an oil change and refills the bottles with his used oil to return to the store for a refund.

 

[oil_film_movies]

The difference between a 55 gallon drum (shop size) Mobil1 5w30 full syn oil and Milesyn SB 5W30 API GF-5/SN Synthetic Blend is $1,200, which is why some shops just re-fill their Mobil1 drums with cheaper stuff.

 

[Rollins]

The code printed at the bottom G8A1832 corresponds to the packaging date (22oct18) , G=Gravenchon Blending plant(France).
Well I don't think all the labels are printed in the same facility so colors and quality of print do vary.

Quick reference of Countries of Origin (First letter of prod.code):

J-Port Jerome(France)
P-Purfleet(England)
H-Hamburg(Germany)
E-Pernis(Holland)
G-Gravenchon(France)
N-Naantali(Finland)
U-Uddevalla(Sweden)
S-Serviburnu(Turkey)
F-V is Vado-Ligure (Italy)
You can meet Delvac products coming from Egypt too.

The first digit is year of manufacture,the second digit is the month(1-9-January-September,Ð-October;Ð’-November;С-December).

Check also the jug moulding date (the small circle and the arrow). Sometimes they'll be months apart...but the jug should always be made prior to the packaging date .

To be on the safe side skip the small shops and always buy from the dealer's warehouse.

 

[21Rouge]

Originally Posted by 4WD
Mine always have a snap cap and foil


I emptied 6 one quart bottles of M1 ESP Formula 0W40 into the sump a couple of months ago and I don't recall there being a foil top below the cap...hmm.

 

[4WD]

Don't think the quarts do …
I buy 5 quart jugs … They all have the foil seal.
Think any brands jug is most likely what a crook would refill …
Having said that, just signed up at Costco and will watch for six pack sale.
(Those are in a box) …

 

[21Rouge]

Originally Posted by 4WD
Don't think the quarts do …
I buy 5 quart jugs … They all have the foil seal.


Wonder why for the jugs but not for the quarts

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted by 21Rouge
Originally Posted by 4WD
Don't think the quarts do …
I buy 5 quart jugs … They all have the foil seal.


Wonder why for the jugs but not for the quarts

Perhaps they know the thieves prefer larger jugs … like if you counterfeit money it's not dollar bills …
That's just a guess … There may be a packaging and storage concern ? I have shipped many jugs of M1 and Delvac and always bone dry in boxes …
Likely Walmart (I assume is Mobil's top retailer) wants the seal anyway …

 

[Proxyon]

Originally Posted by Rollins
The code printed at the bottom G8A1832 corresponds to the packaging date (22oct18) , G=Gravenchon Blending plant(France).
Well I don't think all the labels are printed in the same facility so colors and quality of print do vary.

Quick reference of Countries of Origin (First letter of prod.code):

J-Port Jerome(France)
P-Purfleet(England)
H-Hamburg(Germany)
E-Pernis(Holland)
G-Gravenchon(France)
N-Naantali(Finland)
U-Uddevalla(Sweden)
S-Serviburnu(Turkey)
F-V is Vado-Ligure (Italy)
You can meet Delvac products coming from Egypt too.

The first digit is year of manufacture,the second digit is the month(1-9-January-September,Ð-October;Ð’-November;С-December).

Check also the jug moulding date (the small circle and the arrow). Sometimes they'll be months apart...but the jug should always be made prior to the packaging date .

To be on the safe side skip the small shops and always buy from the dealer's warehouse.



Thanks a lot for the info. I didn't know most of it. I understand "G" stands for Gravenchon, 8 for 2018 and A for October. But how does "1832" stand for 22nd?
Or perhaps A is October and 18 is the year 2018 and then is 32.
Anyways, from your words I am left with the impression that there isn't anything I should worry about. The jug is made prior to the packaging date, actually the arrow points to June 2018.

 

[Rollins]

The first code denotes only the manuf.site the year and the month . The exact date is next to it, october22 . Some of the other codes is the Batch (Filling) code.
Labels and markings differ. Quality of print too ...Packaging varies (Serviburnu Blending site used Turkish made 20l. canisters...almost identical to the ones coming from Gravenchon that had some Germanic manuf.name). Labels of products coming from Vado-Ligure used to had the sloppiest print for some time(2008-2010). The product labels on the Russian market are different from those for the Balkans...the German labels on "syn" oils are totally different due to local legislation etc...
Heh Mann oil and fuel filters have always had the most horrible packaging and print...