2013 Mazda 3 Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 6700Mi
- Thread starter jayjr1105
- Start date
- Status
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/04/full-82667-31942-screenshot_20.jpg "[Linked Image]")
The silicon number not being over about ~25 ppm means the air filter path is sealed up and not allowing silica dust into the engine, so that's good news to know. All the numbers look decent really.
Iron is only a touch higher than it should be. Try using a Fram Ultra oil filter for better filtration, the best filter around to catch more, so it might help some. The Fram.com website says you have to be careful which oil filter you get since they changed the oil filter thread size in the middle of the model year.
https://www.fram.com/parts-search/?...BkAWAAlwDp8mymBLMAAsALmwAi6EQE8yAKhABdIA
Then I'd recommend M1 AFE 0w30 from now on (another walmart item like the fram ultra oil filter). That's 10% more HTHS viscosity for these slightly older engines and it could lower the wear numbers.
Your ending viscosity wasn't excessively low, meaning you could stick with 0w20 for a while and change to slightly thicker in later miles. I would go ahead and start using 0w30 now if it was me.
Iron is only a touch higher than it should be. Try using a Fram Ultra oil filter for better filtration, the best filter around to catch more, so it might help some. The Fram.com website says you have to be careful which oil filter you get since they changed the oil filter thread size in the middle of the model year.
https://www.fram.com/parts-search/?...BkAWAAlwDp8mymBLMAAsALmwAi6EQE8yAKhABdIA
Then I'd recommend M1 AFE 0w30 from now on (another walmart item like the fram ultra oil filter). That's 10% more HTHS viscosity for these slightly older engines and it could lower the wear numbers.
Your ending viscosity wasn't excessively low, meaning you could stick with 0w20 for a while and change to slightly thicker in later miles. I would go ahead and start using 0w30 now if it was me.
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
The silicon number not being over about ~25 ppm means the air filter path is sealed up and not allowing silica dust into the engine, so that's good news to know. All the numbers look decent really.
Iron is only a touch higher than it should be. Try using a Fram Ultra oil filter for better filtration, the best filter around to catch more, so it might help some. The Fram.com website says you have to be careful which oil filter you get since they changed the oil filter thread size in the middle of the model year.
https://www.fram.com/parts-search/?...BkAWAAlwDp8mymBLMAAsALmwAi6EQE8yAKhABdIA
Then I'd recommend M1 AFE 0w30 from now on (another walmart item like the fram ultra oil filter). That's 10% more HTHS viscosity for these slightly older engines and it could lower the wear numbers.
Your ending viscosity wasn't excessively low, meaning you could stick with 0w20 for a while and change to slightly thicker in later miles. I would go ahead and start using 0w30 now if it was me.
(Thanks to this site.) I have a stockpile of 0w20. It will be a while before I consider a 0w30.
Originally Posted by Matagonka
Why did you go with AFE? Was it for fuel economy? Notice any difference?
On sale at Costco that week. Since that OCI I've used Idemitsu 0w20, and my last change a week ago I used Supertech 0w20. Maybe it's placebo but the supertech seems to run really smooth. I will likely run it to 7K and do a UOA.
The silicon number not being over about ~25 ppm means the air filter path is sealed up and not allowing silica dust into the engine, so that's good news to know. All the numbers look decent really.
Iron is only a touch higher than it should be. Try using a Fram Ultra oil filter for better filtration, the best filter around to catch more, so it might help some. The Fram.com website says you have to be careful which oil filter you get since they changed the oil filter thread size in the middle of the model year.
https://www.fram.com/parts-search/?...BkAWAAlwDp8mymBLMAAsALmwAi6EQE8yAKhABdIA
Then I'd recommend M1 AFE 0w30 from now on (another walmart item like the fram ultra oil filter). That's 10% more HTHS viscosity for these slightly older engines and it could lower the wear numbers.
Your ending viscosity wasn't excessively low, meaning you could stick with 0w20 for a while and change to slightly thicker in later miles. I would go ahead and start using 0w30 now if it was me.
(Thanks to this site.) I have a stockpile of 0w20. It will be a while before I consider a 0w30.
Originally Posted by Matagonka
Why did you go with AFE? Was it for fuel economy? Notice any difference?
On sale at Costco that week. Since that OCI I've used Idemitsu 0w20, and my last change a week ago I used Supertech 0w20. Maybe it's placebo but the supertech seems to run really smooth. I will likely run it to 7K and do a UOA.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by dave123
SkyActive no fuel you have a winner with that amount of city driving I'd just stick with the M1 call it a day. I have 120K on my 2.0 Sky ran nothing but M1 since day 1 spotless looking and never a drop used.
Have you switched to 0w30 yet like some others recommend?
SkyActive no fuel you have a winner with that amount of city driving I'd just stick with the M1 call it a day. I have 120K on my 2.0 Sky ran nothing but M1 since day 1 spotless looking and never a drop used.
Have you switched to 0w30 yet like some others recommend?
Silicon looks pretty good to me since your oils VOA comes with 6 ppm silicon.
I have noticed that in many UOAs that the TBN is missing. Is this an extra cost over & above the cost of the UOA?
Originally Posted by Char Baby
I have noticed that in many UOAs that the TBN is missing. Is this an extra cost over & above the cost of the UOA?
Yes, extra $10 for Blackstone. I've seen UOA's from NAPA and other companies that include the TBN. Maybe those are extra fees as well.
I have noticed that in many UOAs that the TBN is missing. Is this an extra cost over & above the cost of the UOA?
Yes, extra $10 for Blackstone. I've seen UOA's from NAPA and other companies that include the TBN. Maybe those are extra fees as well.
Originally Posted by Matagonka
Why did you go with AFE? Was it for fuel economy? Notice any difference?
Mobil1 Advanced Fuel Economy (AFE) 0w20 isn't anything special compared to other 0w20's available. Mobil falsely markets this. They always compare the 0w20 to a heavier viscosity, not fair. (There is about a 1% to 2% increase in fuel consumption from a 0w20 to a 5w30 from viscous drag in there alone.)
There IS a fuel economy advantage when using Eneos Racing Street 0w20 (SN) with a whopping 900 ppm moly FM and low kv40 too. Idemitsu Zepro 0w20 (SN) also high in moly, as is Mazda house-brand 0w20 (SN), both could give a small boost in MPG.
Why did you go with AFE? Was it for fuel economy? Notice any difference?
Mobil1 Advanced Fuel Economy (AFE) 0w20 isn't anything special compared to other 0w20's available. Mobil falsely markets this. They always compare the 0w20 to a heavier viscosity, not fair. (There is about a 1% to 2% increase in fuel consumption from a 0w20 to a 5w30 from viscous drag in there alone.)
There IS a fuel economy advantage when using Eneos Racing Street 0w20 (SN) with a whopping 900 ppm moly FM and low kv40 too. Idemitsu Zepro 0w20 (SN) also high in moly, as is Mazda house-brand 0w20 (SN), both could give a small boost in MPG.
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Originally Posted by dave123
SkyActive no fuel you have a winner with that amount of city driving I'd just stick with the M1 call it a day. I have 120K on my 2.0 Sky ran nothing but M1 since day 1 spotless looking and never a drop used.
Have you switched to 0w30 yet like some others recommend?
No and no plans to and see absolutely no benefits nor would you.
Originally Posted by dave123
SkyActive no fuel you have a winner with that amount of city driving I'd just stick with the M1 call it a day. I have 120K on my 2.0 Sky ran nothing but M1 since day 1 spotless looking and never a drop used.
Have you switched to 0w30 yet like some others recommend?
No and no plans to and see absolutely no benefits nor would you.
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Originally Posted by Char Baby
I have noticed that in many UOAs that the TBN is missing. Is this an extra cost over & above the cost of the UOA?
Yes, extra $10 for Blackstone. I've seen UOA's from NAPA and other companies that include the TBN. Maybe those are extra fees as well.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by Char Baby
I have noticed that in many UOAs that the TBN is missing. Is this an extra cost over & above the cost of the UOA?
Yes, extra $10 for Blackstone. I've seen UOA's from NAPA and other companies that include the TBN. Maybe those are extra fees as well.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by dave123
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Have you switched to 0w30 yet like some others recommend?
No and no plans to and see absolutely no benefits nor would you.
Let's look at reality here. ...You can lower wear with slightly higher viscosity. This is via more hydrodynamic lubrication, less metal-to-metal inside.
Balancing cold startup flow with hot viscosity is important. Raising HTHS from 2.7 to 3.0 might help this Mazda meet or beat fleet average wear levels without harming cold startup.
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Have you switched to 0w30 yet like some others recommend?
No and no plans to and see absolutely no benefits nor would you.
Let's look at reality here. ...You can lower wear with slightly higher viscosity. This is via more hydrodynamic lubrication, less metal-to-metal inside.
Balancing cold startup flow with hot viscosity is important. Raising HTHS from 2.7 to 3.0 might help this Mazda meet or beat fleet average wear levels without harming cold startup.
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by Matagonka
Why did you go with AFE? Was it for fuel economy? Notice any difference?
Mobil1 Advanced Fuel Economy (AFE) 0w20 isn't anything special compared to other 0w20's available. Mobil falsely markets this. They always compare the 0w20 to a heavier viscosity, not fair. (There is about a 1% to 2% increase in fuel consumption from a 0w20 to a 5w30 from viscous drag in there alone.)
There IS a fuel economy advantage when using Eneos Racing Street 0w20 (SN) with a whopping 900 ppm moly FM and low kv40 too. Idemitsu Zepro 0w20 (SN) also high in moly, as is Mazda house-brand 0w20 (SN), both could give a small boost in MPG.
I'm not sure I agree with you 100% here. AFE does have slightly different friction modfication than some of the other Mobil 1 oils (per Mobil engineer) and the ability to handle higher temps better than other 0w20's, as well as the best cold pumpability (MRV) of any 0w20 I've seen. It also has a Noack of 10%, which is better than many others that usually are over 12%. It's priced extremely well too.
I think EP 0w20/AP 0w20 are better at handling longer drains, but AFE is a good oil for its intended purpose. The fuel economy savings will be miniscule if any so I'm not even considering that into the equation.
A 0w30 will have a larger spread and therefore more VII's. I'd recommend a good 5w20. I have 60k on my 2.0 (2015) and I moved to regular M1 5w20. I haven't done any UOA's to compare though.
Originally Posted by Matagonka
Why did you go with AFE? Was it for fuel economy? Notice any difference?
Mobil1 Advanced Fuel Economy (AFE) 0w20 isn't anything special compared to other 0w20's available. Mobil falsely markets this. They always compare the 0w20 to a heavier viscosity, not fair. (There is about a 1% to 2% increase in fuel consumption from a 0w20 to a 5w30 from viscous drag in there alone.)
There IS a fuel economy advantage when using Eneos Racing Street 0w20 (SN) with a whopping 900 ppm moly FM and low kv40 too. Idemitsu Zepro 0w20 (SN) also high in moly, as is Mazda house-brand 0w20 (SN), both could give a small boost in MPG.
I'm not sure I agree with you 100% here. AFE does have slightly different friction modfication than some of the other Mobil 1 oils (per Mobil engineer) and the ability to handle higher temps better than other 0w20's, as well as the best cold pumpability (MRV) of any 0w20 I've seen. It also has a Noack of 10%, which is better than many others that usually are over 12%. It's priced extremely well too.
I think EP 0w20/AP 0w20 are better at handling longer drains, but AFE is a good oil for its intended purpose. The fuel economy savings will be miniscule if any so I'm not even considering that into the equation.
A 0w30 will have a larger spread and therefore more VII's. I'd recommend a good 5w20. I have 60k on my 2.0 (2015) and I moved to regular M1 5w20. I haven't done any UOA's to compare though.
- Status
Similar threads
