Alignment problem - help me understand

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Hey folks, I hoped I can get some input from you on a weird issue I'm experiencing.
I've changed tires on my 17 Sportage recently, when arrived for a rotation/balancing was informed my alignment is bad, there was a side wear as well as tires thread was at 4 mm.
I kinda new it already so asked them what did they have in stock.
My OE size is 225/55/18 and the shop had only 235/55/18 in stock, they claimed it's not a big deal so I got that installed.
After the installation, I did feel that my car is leaning to the right a bit, I concluded for myself that it makes sense since the alignment still needs to be performed.
Yesterday I went into a local shop to get an alignment, and after they've performed it - the car is still leaning right.
I came back and was presented the pictures of the computer monitor they use to do alignments.
It looks perfect on those pictures, except for the fact the left bottom corner says 13 Sportage, while mine is 17 Sportage. I pushed that argument and it went nowhere - they keep saying
they know what they're doing and the alignment is perfect, ignore the "13 Sportage" text.
Any idea of where should I go from here?

I have 3 concerns here and please help me understanding if they make sense:
1. Tires are a bit bigger
2. Alignment was performed wrong (using "13 sportage" alignment runbook or whatever it's called)
3. Maybe the balancing wasn't performed properly

Will appreciate any input

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If I'm not mistaken, these are before the alignment pictures

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I would not have put on a larger size tire because, it will decrease the performance and the speedometer will be incorrect. I would get the correct size tire for your vehicle and then get a proper alignment elsewhere. . I think the person doing the alignment did a very poor alignment.
 
If they use 2013 Kia Sportage spec to align 2017 Kia, that's wrong.

This could be the reason why your caster is off.

Assuming your last pic is the "after" pic, then your camber and toe-in are ok.

How much do you weigh? If you weigh too much, and assuming your camber is off (before), steering will pull....

2c's worth.

Q.
 
Originally Posted by Eddie
I would not have put on a larger size tire because, it will decrease the performance and the speedometer will be incorrect ...


The tire size is fine ... the 235 is less than 1/2 an inch taller in diameter, and only 10 mm wider. The speedometer will read about 1 mph slow, showing 59 mph at a true speed of 60 mph, and because factory speedometers nearly always read higher than true speed, may in fact make the speedometer MORE accurate.

Any performance decrease will be too small to notice ...

As far as alignment goes, a 13 Sportage is going to have the same basic alignment specs as a 17. The only adjustable specs are usually toe and camber ... toe is usually zero , camber will be zero to slightly negative for the front, and slightly more negative in the rear. Caster is not usually adjustable ... and the caster may be the one spec that might be different for a 13 vs 17.

Looks fine ... but if you think it was done wrong, try a different shop ...
 
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Oh man! Where should I start? I'm afraid that you have been taken. Remedy? Make sure all of the tires are the same size, same brand and have the same air pressure (35psi). Now, take it to the KIA dealership and get a proper alignment. Finally, DO NOT USE THAT TIRE DEALER AGAIN. DON'T EVEN GO BACK FOR A ROTATION. This wasn't a Firestone store, was it? It sure sounds like one.
 
if you go to the stealers be sure they use vaseline before you get the bill!
 
Originally Posted by MParr
Now, take it to the KIA dealership and get a proper alignment ...



At most auto dealerships, you will have a flat rate tech working as FAST as he can ... usually giving you a GOOD ENOUGH alignment ... at a premium price.

How is that better ?
 
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by MParr
Now, take it to the KIA dealership and get a proper alignment ...



At most auto dealerships, you will have a flat rate tech working as FAST as he can ... usually giving you a GOOD ENOUGH alignment ... at a premium price.

How is that better ?

Most A/B techs are paid on flat-rate - dealer or independent.
 
Originally Posted by Eddie
I would not have put on a larger size tire because, it will decrease the performance and the speedometer will be incorrect.

Maybe. Sometimes going up a size like that is beneficial. It was for my Toyota pickup. It actually reduced most of the existing speedometer error and rides better too.

Also, to add, the program this shop is using is terrible. It looks like a child's toy and what's with all those question marks? I wouldn't trust them to do a good alignment. Go elsewhere.
 
Thx everyone for answers, I'll go to the local dealer instead who charges around $90 for the alignment.
Will see how it goes
 
SlavaB
Once you get this straightened out, you will not need to have an alignment done unless you hit something or have some suspension components replaced. When I say suspension components, I'm talking about tie rod ends and ball joints. Don't let a tire shop sell you an alignment when you buy new tires or have them rotated. It's a gimmick they all use and most times they mess things up. I can't remember when the last time I had an alignment done on my cars.
 
225 and 235 are not noticeably different, I run 245 instead of 255 all the time too. Also tire change should not affect alignment either.

What you have seen is likely their machine out of calibration, or the guy didn't do it right, etc. Bring it to another shop to align and then bring the receipt back to ask for a refund (if they are different or if the new alignment shop fixed it).
 
The cross camber in front axle looks too large to me 0.4 deg, 0.8 deg. That's basically -1 deg neg on one wheel and -1/2 deg on the other. And its on the wrong side of the road crown for a beneficial countersteer up the crown.
 
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From a Kia Forum:

Quote

From the Kia Global Information System web site (all numbers are in degrees):

Front:
Toe-in (Individual) 0.05 +/- 0.05
Toe-in (Total) 0.1 +/- 0.1
Camber -0.5 +/- 0.5
Caster 4.60 +/- 0.5
King pin angle 13.96 +/- 0.5

Rear:
Toe-in (Individual) 0.1 +/- 0.1
Toe-in (Total) 0.2 +/- 0.2
Camber -1.0 +/- 0.5


The ? instead of a decimal is concerning (aside form the reading difficulty).

What kind of machine was this and was it actually set up on a rack and calibrated at the time of these pictures or was it one of those quick drive across set ups?

I agree that I would have installed the correct size tires, but depending on wheel size it might be fine...there is about .3 inches difference in height and 10 or so revs per mile. so its a small change.
 
Have them check ride height too. I dintr understand the "leaning": issue. Is your car seat broken, maybe?

Or maybe you mean pulling to the right?
 
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Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Have them check ride height too. I dintr understand the "leaning": issue. Is your car seat broken, maybe?


Maybe I've used the wrong term, sorry.
To describe better: when going straight on a highway in the middle lane, after I'm releasing the steering wheel - the car doesnt go straight but pulling to the right by itself.
So in order to go straight I keep adjusting it while driving.
 
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Ahh . yes I saw too much inward tilt on your driver side wheel.

Tilt wheels steer the direction they tilt ( think motorcycle) and that wheel is tilted right MUCH more than the right wheel is tilted left.
 
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