Try pentosin pento high performance II 5w40 next. I swear my allroad's hpfp is nearly silent with it. I usually use valvoline synpower in my cars and I've always been really happy with it but i got a bunch of pentosin on clearance for $2 per 5qt jug so now i have what feels like a lifetime supply of the stuff. Very happy with it so far. I still swear by the valvoline though. 200k on my bmw at 10k intervals and the engine is still sparkly clean inside.
Even my wife noticed
- Thread starter Kjmack
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I just did a quick change today, a flip of the Fumoto.
In n out was the Pennzoil Gold.
The silky smoothness and quiet engine remained apparent.
The sumptuousness, the flow, the consistency of the fine Sopus add pack...
it's a pleasure.
Throw in the happy wife.
My truck runs soooo much better than on the M1 EP.
Somebody tell Gokhan it's not all about the base oil.
In n out was the Pennzoil Gold.
The silky smoothness and quiet engine remained apparent.
The sumptuousness, the flow, the consistency of the fine Sopus add pack...
it's a pleasure.
Throw in the happy wife.
My truck runs soooo much better than on the M1 EP.
Somebody tell Gokhan it's not all about the base oil.
Originally Posted by Kjmack
2015 VW Jetta 1.8T 52,000 miles . 2 years on Mobil 1 0W40 , Then switched to Castrol 0W40 and the engine was so much smoother and quieter . For the heck of it I just tried Pennzoil Platinum 0W40 same engine noise as Castrol but engine smoothness is the best of the 3 . I didn't even tell my wife that I changed the oil so I was very surprised when she told me the Jetta seemed extra smooth today.
I know butt dynos mean nothing but to me a smooth engine means alot .
That is well known behavior of Mobil1. Nothing new. However, does it affect somehow performance or longevity? I highly doubt. I used M1 0W40 several times in Passat B5.5 1.8T, and VW CC 2.0T as well as Tiguan I have now, and yes, engine is louder. That is actually reason I stopped using bcs. Castrol 0W40 is much smoother. But, I have no doubts that M1 will perform good. In the end, it has most stringent approvals, same as Castrol 0W40 or Pennzoil 0W40 has.
Now in Toyota I use M1 5W30 EP. Engine is loud compare to 0W20 I dumped after I bought car used from BMW dealer (they used BMW TPT 0W20). However, considering that in ILSAC GF-5 category is hard to find anything that is not pretty much all the way Group III based, EP will do, plus engine is not hard on oil at all.
But, if I need to change oil in Tiguan, and M1 0W40 was only option on the shelf, I would use it with no sweat, and DEFINIATELY before Castrol 5W40.
2015 VW Jetta 1.8T 52,000 miles . 2 years on Mobil 1 0W40 , Then switched to Castrol 0W40 and the engine was so much smoother and quieter . For the heck of it I just tried Pennzoil Platinum 0W40 same engine noise as Castrol but engine smoothness is the best of the 3 . I didn't even tell my wife that I changed the oil so I was very surprised when she told me the Jetta seemed extra smooth today.
I know butt dynos mean nothing but to me a smooth engine means alot .
That is well known behavior of Mobil1. Nothing new. However, does it affect somehow performance or longevity? I highly doubt. I used M1 0W40 several times in Passat B5.5 1.8T, and VW CC 2.0T as well as Tiguan I have now, and yes, engine is louder. That is actually reason I stopped using bcs. Castrol 0W40 is much smoother. But, I have no doubts that M1 will perform good. In the end, it has most stringent approvals, same as Castrol 0W40 or Pennzoil 0W40 has.
Now in Toyota I use M1 5W30 EP. Engine is loud compare to 0W20 I dumped after I bought car used from BMW dealer (they used BMW TPT 0W20). However, considering that in ILSAC GF-5 category is hard to find anything that is not pretty much all the way Group III based, EP will do, plus engine is not hard on oil at all.
But, if I need to change oil in Tiguan, and M1 0W40 was only option on the shelf, I would use it with no sweat, and DEFINIATELY before Castrol 5W40.
Hi guys. I have Volkswagen CC 2012 2.0L TSI (bought in 2014) what would you recommend for me if I've used Mobil1 and a lot of others but sometimes they were not good enough? Mostly I ride a lot, for example, I can ride from NY to Colorado and then to Canada (sometimes). For the most part, I drive on rural roads (yeah, this car rides even there because it must)
Originally Posted by Harteeco
Hi guys. I have Volkswagen CC 2012 2.0L TSI (bought in 2014) what would you recommend for me if I've used Mobil1 and a lot of others but sometimes they were not good enough? Mostly I ride a lot, for example, I can ride from NY to Colorado and then to Canada (sometimes). For the most part, I drive on rural roads (yeah, this car rides even there because it must)
It is good enough!
Mobil1 0W40 FS
Castrol 0W40
Valvoline 5W40 MST
All can be found in Wal mart, and are excellent oils.
Hi guys. I have Volkswagen CC 2012 2.0L TSI (bought in 2014) what would you recommend for me if I've used Mobil1 and a lot of others but sometimes they were not good enough? Mostly I ride a lot, for example, I can ride from NY to Colorado and then to Canada (sometimes). For the most part, I drive on rural roads (yeah, this car rides even there because it must)
It is good enough!
Mobil1 0W40 FS
Castrol 0W40
Valvoline 5W40 MST
All can be found in Wal mart, and are excellent oils.
I'm going to bump this thread to share my own experiences with putting Castrol 0w-40 Euro in my car today. I drove for nearly two hours after the oil change, and the improvement over the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 was immediately noticeable upon merging onto the highway. The Pennzoil seemed to be a bit more "coarse;" often the engine would have a small "hiccup" while going up the rpm range. The hiccups were not alarming and barely noticeable, it wasn't sputtering, but I could tell that there were just times when it wasn't a perfect, smooth power delivery. It felt like the turbos were delivering boost slightly rough. I didn't attribute it to the oil, and when I went for a drive today, I wasn't looking for a comparison. The difference was just that apparent. I'm glad I switched back to Castrol after a year of Pennzoil
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Well they certainly can, if they don't flow enough current for the application.
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Well they certainly can, if they don't flow enough current for the application.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Well they certainly can, if they don't flow enough current for the application.
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Well they certainly can, if they don't flow enough current for the application.
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Well they certainly can, if they don't flow enough current for the application.
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
Oh lawd is that an exaggeration or a real price???
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Well they certainly can, if they don't flow enough current for the application.
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
Oh lawd is that an exaggeration or a real price???
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by MCompact
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
Oh lawd is that an exaggeration or a real price???
Actually, $1k/foot is mid-pack.
How about $1,649 for a pair of RCA interconnects?
You will also need quality speaker cables- only $11,100.
While you're at it, pick up this 10 watt per channel tube power amp for $17,999.
Originally Posted by MCompact
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
Oh lawd is that an exaggeration or a real price???
Actually, $1k/foot is mid-pack.
How about $1,649 for a pair of RCA interconnects?
You will also need quality speaker cables- only $11,100.
While you're at it, pick up this 10 watt per channel tube power amp for $17,999.
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by MCompact
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
Oh lawd is that an exaggeration or a real price???
Actually, $1k/foot is mid-pack.
How about $1,649 for a pair of RCA interconnects?
You will also need quality speaker cables- only $11,100.
While you're at it, pick up this 10 watt per channel tube power amp for $17,999.
No thanks, I'll stink to high mile German junk.
It's a cheaper hobby.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by MCompact
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
Oh lawd is that an exaggeration or a real price???
Actually, $1k/foot is mid-pack.
How about $1,649 for a pair of RCA interconnects?
You will also need quality speaker cables- only $11,100.
While you're at it, pick up this 10 watt per channel tube power amp for $17,999.
No thanks, I'll stink to high mile German junk.
It's a cheaper hobby.
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Well they certainly can, if they don't flow enough current for the application.
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
If those cables are not made from an alloy high in gold, somebody is making a LOT of money off of gullibility!
I remember that gold plated connectors were all the rage when I was buying my one and only high end stereo (since sold off)...I could actually see a possible benefit there as they wouldn't oxidize, but I don't think I shelled out for them.
There were actually very measurable reasons why tube amps had a different sound than solid state ones, but those differences can be minimized by design and a "tube sound" can be produced with solid state circuits.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by 4WD
5 years from now I will still be waiting for a technical explanation of things we read on BITOG about noise and smoothness
It's akin to the high-end audio magazines where individuals claim that power cords, speaker cables, and interconnects can affect sound quality.
Well they certainly can, if they don't flow enough current for the application.
I'm talking about those boutique brands that cost $1k/foot.
If those cables are not made from an alloy high in gold, somebody is making a LOT of money off of gullibility!
I remember that gold plated connectors were all the rage when I was buying my one and only high end stereo (since sold off)...I could actually see a possible benefit there as they wouldn't oxidize, but I don't think I shelled out for them.
There were actually very measurable reasons why tube amps had a different sound than solid state ones, but those differences can be minimized by design and a "tube sound" can be produced with solid state circuits.
How can anyone reasonably compare the noise of oil oil, likely somewhat diluted, sheared, and/or low , with a filter full of particles. to brand new oil with a full sump and new filter? Every time I change the oil, with every car, it sounds quieter.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by NO2
How can anyone reasonably compare the noise of oil oil, likely somewhat diluted, sheared, and/or low , with a filter full of particles. to brand new oil with a full sump and new filter? Every time I change the oil, with every car, it sounds quieter.
Like the you tube videos ... guy changes out old, HOT, OPERATING TEMP oil. Puts in new, ROOM TEMP oil (10 x plus thicker ... ). Then shows how quiet the engine is on this obviously vastly superior brand X oil.
Yep, that there is some good oil !
How can anyone reasonably compare the noise of oil oil, likely somewhat diluted, sheared, and/or low , with a filter full of particles. to brand new oil with a full sump and new filter? Every time I change the oil, with every car, it sounds quieter.
Like the you tube videos ... guy changes out old, HOT, OPERATING TEMP oil. Puts in new, ROOM TEMP oil (10 x plus thicker ... ). Then shows how quiet the engine is on this obviously vastly superior brand X oil.
Yep, that there is some good oil !
I've seen this in every application that ran M1 oils as well. M1 oils are't what they used to be but you don't dare speak badly of this "holy grail" oil on here or they will burn you at the stake! I used to be a huge M1 fan and in the early-mid 2000's something changed. My wife even noticed our Hondas were significantly "louder" than before even after a FRESH OCI. So I switched to Pennzoil and never looked back. It is a superior oil whether these guys want to admit it or not...
I don't care if ticking, piston slap, injector noise or whatever it is anecdotal, it is always LOUDER with Mobil oils. Loud engine noise does not equal superior protection. Many of us have proven over and over in several different vehicles that the noise is worse with M1 oils and is easily solved by replacing it with another oil such as Castrol or Pennzoil.
It just cracks me up to see the new guys posting this and how quickly they get defamed by all the M1 fan boys on here! Makes me wonder how many more notice this but don't say it!
Bring on the bantering! I don't mind!
I don't care if ticking, piston slap, injector noise or whatever it is anecdotal, it is always LOUDER with Mobil oils. Loud engine noise does not equal superior protection. Many of us have proven over and over in several different vehicles that the noise is worse with M1 oils and is easily solved by replacing it with another oil such as Castrol or Pennzoil.
It just cracks me up to see the new guys posting this and how quickly they get defamed by all the M1 fan boys on here! Makes me wonder how many more notice this but don't say it!
Bring on the bantering! I don't mind!
Originally Posted by racin4ds
I've seen this in every application that ran M1 oils as well. M1 oils are't what they used to be but you don't dare speak badly of this "holy grail" oil on here or they will burn you at the stake! I used to be a huge M1 fan and in the early-mid 2000's something changed. My wife even noticed our Hondas were significantly "louder" than before even after a FRESH OCI. So I switched to Pennzoil and never looked back. It is a superior oil whether these guys want to admit it or not...
I don't care if ticking, piston slap, injector noise or whatever it is anecdotal, it is always LOUDER with Mobil oils. Loud engine noise does not equal superior protection. Many of us have proven over and over in several different vehicles that the noise is worse with M1 oils and is easily solved by replacing it with another oil such as Castrol or Pennzoil.
It just cracks me up to see the new guys posting this and how quickly they get defamed by all the M1 fan boys on here! Makes me wonder how many more notice this but don't say it!
Bring on the bantering! I don't mind!
For a long time I was claiming that M1 0W40 is louder oil. However, UOA proved that it does not depart in wear etc. from other top notch oils. VISOM version of M1 0W40 in 5k in my VW CC sheared from 13.5 to 13.3. However, TBN retention was concerning. It went from 11.8 to 2.7 in 5k.
Mobil1 ESP Formula 5W30 was (it is not available any more) probably best Low-SAPS ACEA C3 oil available. That oil on other hand did not create any more noise than any other C3 oil I used in my BMW X5 35d.
I will do UOA at 10K on M1 5W30 EP in Toyota so will see where we at. As far as I know, boron in M1 is at lower levels than other oils which per some discussion here several years back is contributing to noise.
I've seen this in every application that ran M1 oils as well. M1 oils are't what they used to be but you don't dare speak badly of this "holy grail" oil on here or they will burn you at the stake! I used to be a huge M1 fan and in the early-mid 2000's something changed. My wife even noticed our Hondas were significantly "louder" than before even after a FRESH OCI. So I switched to Pennzoil and never looked back. It is a superior oil whether these guys want to admit it or not...
I don't care if ticking, piston slap, injector noise or whatever it is anecdotal, it is always LOUDER with Mobil oils. Loud engine noise does not equal superior protection. Many of us have proven over and over in several different vehicles that the noise is worse with M1 oils and is easily solved by replacing it with another oil such as Castrol or Pennzoil.
It just cracks me up to see the new guys posting this and how quickly they get defamed by all the M1 fan boys on here! Makes me wonder how many more notice this but don't say it!
Bring on the bantering! I don't mind!
For a long time I was claiming that M1 0W40 is louder oil. However, UOA proved that it does not depart in wear etc. from other top notch oils. VISOM version of M1 0W40 in 5k in my VW CC sheared from 13.5 to 13.3. However, TBN retention was concerning. It went from 11.8 to 2.7 in 5k.
Mobil1 ESP Formula 5W30 was (it is not available any more) probably best Low-SAPS ACEA C3 oil available. That oil on other hand did not create any more noise than any other C3 oil I used in my BMW X5 35d.
I will do UOA at 10K on M1 5W30 EP in Toyota so will see where we at. As far as I know, boron in M1 is at lower levels than other oils which per some discussion here several years back is contributing to noise.
What are HTHS numbers of those "loud" oils? Are they energy conserving API SN/ILSAC GF-5 or do they have ACEA + EU OEM specs? <----- usually that means higher HTHS.....
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