Universal green coolant in place of DexCool?

[jongies3]

Recently purchased a 2003 Park Avenue Ultra with the supercharged 3800 V6 and see that it has slightly dirty orange coolant in it I assume to be DexCool? I really don't know much about coolant types but would it be okay to swap it all out with the green universal 50/50 stuff? I do the work myself and would rather use the green stuff since everything else I own already uses it. But the Buick owner's manual strongly advises DexCool only as it won't corrode aluminum parts and wear through seals, but, as I understand it, this car uses a cast iron block so will that matter? I honestly didn't know aluminum corroded at all, or is this just pressure paranoia crap to get you to use GM only products in the vehicle?

Thanks in advance y'all and have a happy 'n safe Easter weekend!

 

[FCD]

The formula of pretty much all "Universal" or "All makes all models" coolant is very similar to Dexcool so it would be just fine.

 

[clinebarger]

Dexcool is one of IF not the most widely available current OE coolants in the U.S. That's why I run Dexcool in everything I own including the 2 Toyota's.

Dexcool does seem to be a little hard on Soldered Core's....More so than it being touted as being hard on plastics.

 

[csandste]

I'd prefer a universal coolant to the green stuff.

 

[sopususer]

The green stuff will work, BUT make sure you COMPLETELY flush all the dex-cool out before putting a drop of the green in. They do not play well together. The coolants chemically react and form a gel rather than a liquid. The coolant stops flowing through the system, clogs up coolant passageways and water jackets, radiators, and heater cores. The water pump overheats and fails due to a lack of lubricant in the coolant. Head gaskets blow, heads warp, and the engine suffers major damage. As stated before, it would be a lot less work and really no more expense to stay with the dex-cool. Widely available and similarly priced.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Going back to green is going backwards. No problem with Dexcool and iron blocks. I use it with my iron block LS engine and it comes out 5 years later in pristine shape. Dexcool is still the recommended coolant for GM.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by jongies3
I do the work myself and would rather use the green stuff since everything else I own already uses it.


That's a poor excuse. You have three different weights of oil listed in your signature for your different vehicles. Why can't you do the same for the coolant and get the correct one, especially when you only have to change it every 100,000 miles?

 

[BigD1]

The original conventional green will be fine. It worked just fine for many many years.

Peak and the other brands they make are all low silicate now. I personally use Rural King brand called Durex made by Peak.

I would definitely try to get all the the Dexcool out. The simplest and most effective way that I know of is to buy one of the flushing kits like a Prestone Flush 'N Fill for a few dollars. You don't have to cut the inlet heater hose, or leave the tee installed. Just pull the inlet heater hose, and attach it to one end of the tee. Then buy a short piece of hose that fits the other end of the tee and the heater core inlet. Pull thermostat, turn heat to high, so that the heater core is open and circulating, and have at it.

 

[FCD]

Universal green is not conventional green, it's a Dexclone most times

 

[Mackelroy]

Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver
Universal green is not conventional green, it's a Dexclone most times

Yes , many don't seem to realize the Evolution that's taken place, especially Prestone mixes with anything type coolants , which is green or (yellow) actually.

 

[das_peikko]

I buy Dexcool because I like the color.

 

[Warstud]

Originally Posted by jongies3
would it be okay to swap it all out with the green universal 50/50 stuff?

I could better answer the question if you told me what coolant you have or provide a link.

 

[69GTX]

Why take the risk that you leave a couple ounces of DexCool behind on your "thorough" flush? I wouldn't even trust someone else to flush it. Very little upside here and lots of downside.

DexCool works fine as long as you change it every 5 yrs/100K miles and keep the water level full.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by BigD1
The original conventional green will be fine. It worked just fine for many many years.


Geez, by that argument we would still have 8-tracks in our cars and tube TV's in our homes. Conventional green coolant hasn't been used since the 90's. Why would you use 1950's technology when modern alternatives protect better and require less maintenance?

 

[Ed_Flecko]

If it we me, I'd use DexCool because that's the factory recommended coolant. I also would not do any kind of a "flush" that introduces tap water, that's likely full of minerals, into the cooling system.

Part 1 - https://bit.ly/2XqXdly
Part 2 - https://bit.ly/2IMQ3UD

Ed

 

[Railrust]

I mixed green with Dexcool once, that was a lot of fun, like baking a cake. Cake batter.

Just do the Dexcool, there's nothing wrong with using it.

 

[FCD]

Originally Posted by Railrust
I mixed green with Dexcool once, that was a lot of fun, like baking a cake. Cake batter.

Just do the Dexcool, there's nothing wrong with using it.


Only if the factory OEM coolant has or had 2-Eha.

Dexcool or any coolant that uses 2-Ethylhexanoic acid is a No-No in any cooling system with soldered radiators, or that uses gaskets, seals, hoses etc that are designed to work with it.