Remote transmission filter newbie questions

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Zahndkile

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I just recently replaced my 2002 chevy tahoe transmission and would like to make it last. I am planning some cooling system upgrades and thought i might add a remote spin on filter.
My question is would an engine oil filter be a good choice for a remote transmission filter?
The filter i had in mind is Mobil M1-206a or equivalent Purolator boss.
The reason i chose those filters is that they are my engine oil filter of choice and they are included in the 5qt sales on M1 oil that i use. My engine uses more than 5 qt per change so i double up and get 10qt and 2 filters for less than the usual price for the oil alone. So i have a spare filter that could be used on the transmission.
Efficiency for the M1 filter is listed as 99%+ @ 30 micron.
 
I'd just use a Magnefine, which is designed for what you're wanting to do. Plus, no need to buy a remote mount, just cut the return line, slip on 2 clamps, and stick the filter in.

Sure, you CAN do what you're proposing, but should you?
 
Your idea about using a filter head and a large filter will be a better option in the long run.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
I'd just use a Magnefine, which is designed for what you're wanting to do. Plus, no need to buy a remote mount, just cut the return line, slip on 2 clamps, and stick the filter in.

Sure, you CAN do what you're proposing, but should you?


That wasnt really my question. I dont like hose clamps. And the M1-206a comes nearly free. So if it would filter well and not have any problems i might do it.
 
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thumbsup2.gif
 
Any oil filter the size of a FL-1A or PH8A ("Generic Ford V8" size oil filter) will last you the life of your vehicle.

YES - I am serious!

I use a Baldwin BT839-10 (common 10 micron hydraulic filter) on a generic "log splitter" filter mount (also extremely common and very generic) as a trans filter on my F150.

If you ever cut them open after removing and see just how clean they are inside, you'll quickly realize that changing them regularly is a waste of time and money.

I think I have about 80,000 miles on my current one. I'll not change it - ever - unless it's time to rebuild the trans.
 
I recommend NOT using an in-line filter; rather, use a very tight filter media bypass filter, and add-in an aux ATF cooler downstream of the in-rad cooler. When I say "tight" I mean 2 microns of filtration.

I have an NTF ATF-09 unit, which is made in Holland or Belgium. There is also the newer AL-09 unit.

I attach some info...

Also, one graphic gives an alternative. I don't know what it's filtration value is though. I note that the NTF units, though, are 2 microns by way of filtration - and that: i) really reduces the bypass flow across the cooler lines (that is actually good... in that it does not rob too much cooling action); and ii) it really brings the filtered quality of the ATF to spectacular (good) levels... perhaps even better than what is new-in-the-bottle.

Final point: the progression of the Company is / was: Eagle Picher NTZ; then NTZ; and then (currently) NTF. Same products, all of the while.

NTZ Filters.JPG


Eagle Picher - NTZ ATF-09.JPG


NTF Alternative - for an AT.JPG
 

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If you look up the flow rating of the filters and compare that to the flow rating of the atf you will see engine oil filters are more than adequate. Also i would like to point out toyota seems to favor flow over filtering as some of there transmissions just use a wire mesh screen. I wouldn't be to concerned about the micron rating of the filter as anything will be better than whats on there now.,
 
Originally Posted by joegreen
...............[pretty much all] transmissions just use a wire mesh screen. I wouldn't be too concerned about the micron rating of the filter as anything will be better than whats on there now.,


Pretty much every transmission "filter" I have ever seen in my entire life was a glorified "rock catcher".

I figured with 10 micron (Baldwin BT839-10) - - I was doing the trans a huge favor.
 
Originally Posted by joegreen
If you look up the flow rating of the filters and compare that to the flow rating of the atf you will see engine oil filters are more than adequate. Also i would like to point out toyota seems to favor flow over filtering as some of there transmissions just use a wire mesh screen. I wouldn't be to concerned about the micron rating of the filter as anything will be better than whats on there now.,

One reason i want better filteration is the 4l60e has a valve (torque converter clutch isolator valve I believe its called) that whares out and I believe the main reason is particles in the oil in the low Micron range. So i think keeping the oil clean will help prevent that valve from wearing which is a major killer of non abused 4l60e transmissions.
The 4l60e has a bad name and i belive the biggest reason other than abuse is fear of clean fluid. So i aim to be able to at 300,000 + miles say yep this is what full fluid changes and clean fluid does to a transmission.
Sorry for the rant. ...„
 
I finally found what I was looking for... a White Paper on the impacts of ATF cleanliness on A/T life expectancy. See attached.

A bit dry-reading, i.e. a scholarly article, but in my view something that really corroborates the whole claim of why we want really low-micron filtration for an A/T.

Swarf circulating in the ATF wears the valve body out, it wears out the rolling-element bearings... roller, ball, and Torrington, it worsens the wear of the steels, etc...

We all want to maximize A/T life... as they are expensive to fix... or in some cases, upon failure - they efffectively "total" a car from an economic perspective.
 

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Ten years ago after having the TH 400 rebuilt for the 77 Chev in my sig the shop manager said to install the inline filter they supplied in the return line and leave it there for 1500 miles then remove it and not to replace it which i did. This truck is now a summer toy which I occasionally hammer on. Not being a worrier I`m fine without the additional filter.
 
Originally Posted by Cdn17Sport6MT
I finally found what I was looking for... a White Paper on the impacts of ATF cleanliness on A/T life expectancy. See attached.

A bit dry-reading, i.e. a scholarly article, but in my view something that really corroborates the whole claim of why we want really low-micron filtration for an A/T.

Swarf circulating in the ATF wears the valve body out, it wears out the rolling-element bearings... roller, ball, and Torrington, it worsens the wear of the steels, etc...

We all want to maximize A/T life... as they are expensive to fix... or in some cases, upon failure - they efffectively "total" a car from an economic perspective.

Cool find. Thank you for posting.
 
Originally Posted by Dinoburner
Ten years ago after having the TH 400 rebuilt for the 77 Chev in my sig the shop manager said to install the inline filter they supplied in the return line and leave it there for 1500 miles then remove it and not to replace it which i did. This truck is now a summer toy which I occasionally hammer on. Not being a worrier I`m fine without the additional filter.

Bowtie overdrives told me similar 400 miles and dont replace it.
 
Cdn, you do realize that is essentially just an advertisement for NTZ, written by an NTZ employee, correct? If there had been other filters, such as in-line or other brands of bypass filters, it may give more sway. But AFAIAC, that article is 100% ad. No comparisons, no measurement of at what point the contamination caused a failure, just "Buy NTZ because it keeps the oil clean!"

I do appreciate the effort in finding the article, but as someone else stated, a majority of what ends up in the fluid is magnetic, and that's likely why you see nearly all OEMs skip the filter and stick one or more magnets in the pan. The metal sludge will cause more wear and havoc to the steels and valves than the detritus from the clutch packs.
 
100% agreed.

Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
The metal sludge will cause more wear and havoc to the steels and valves than the detritus from the clutch packs.
 
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