PYB in gen3 F150 coyote
- Thread starter 1978elcamino
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Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
SN+ is only required on turbo+DI engines. Yours has port+DI injection, no turbo.
Only wrinkle there is that Ford does indeed call out their -B1 oil spec (for LSPI) in the 2018+ owner's manual for the 5.0L Coyote.
2018 F-150 5.0L - see pages 442 & 443.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...rs-Manual-version-5_om_EN-US_09_2018.pdf
2019 F-150 5.0L - see pages 446 and 447.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...rs-Manual-version-3_om_EN-US_04_2019.pdf
SN+ is only required on turbo+DI engines. Yours has port+DI injection, no turbo.
Only wrinkle there is that Ford does indeed call out their -B1 oil spec (for LSPI) in the 2018+ owner's manual for the 5.0L Coyote.
2018 F-150 5.0L - see pages 442 & 443.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...rs-Manual-version-5_om_EN-US_09_2018.pdf
2019 F-150 5.0L - see pages 446 and 447.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...rs-Manual-version-3_om_EN-US_04_2019.pdf
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
I love that folks want to put an economy oil into an expensive truck like that. Really? Spend the money and don't be so cheap.
Pfff thanks for showing after a decade and 25K posts you have learned Nada.
No, synthetic is better than conventional / semi-synthetic. Sorry. Modern engines are far more taxing on oil today than 10 years ago. Maybe not so much in this case but in general and a synthetic is going to leave less deposits and do a better job in the really high heat areas around the Piston rings than conventional.
Originally Posted by StevieC
I love that folks want to put an economy oil into an expensive truck like that. Really? Spend the money and don't be so cheap.
Pfff thanks for showing after a decade and 25K posts you have learned Nada.
No, synthetic is better than conventional / semi-synthetic. Sorry. Modern engines are far more taxing on oil today than 10 years ago. Maybe not so much in this case but in general and a synthetic is going to leave less deposits and do a better job in the really high heat areas around the Piston rings than conventional.
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Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
I love that folks want to put an economy oil into an expensive truck like that. Really? Spend the money and don't be so cheap.
Pfff thanks for showing after a decade and 25K posts you have learned Nada.
No, synthetic is better than conventional / semi-synthetic. Sorry. Modern engines are far more taxing on oil today than 10 years ago. Maybe not so much in this case but in general and a synthetic is going to leave less deposits and do a better job in the really high heat areas around the Piston rings than conventional.
Not with a factory recommended OCI on 8 to 9 quarts of motor oil with SN ISLAC GF-5.
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
I love that folks want to put an economy oil into an expensive truck like that. Really? Spend the money and don't be so cheap.
Pfff thanks for showing after a decade and 25K posts you have learned Nada.
No, synthetic is better than conventional / semi-synthetic. Sorry. Modern engines are far more taxing on oil today than 10 years ago. Maybe not so much in this case but in general and a synthetic is going to leave less deposits and do a better job in the really high heat areas around the Piston rings than conventional.
Not with a factory recommended OCI on 8 to 9 quarts of motor oil with SN ISLAC GF-5.
Triple_Se7en
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Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
I love that folks want to put an economy oil into an expensive truck like that. Really? Spend the money and don't be so cheap.
Pfff thanks for showing after a decade and 25K posts you have learned Nada.
No, synthetic is better than conventional / semi-synthetic. Sorry. Modern engines are far more taxing on oil today than 10 years ago. Maybe not so much in this case but in general and a synthetic is going to leave less deposits and do a better job in the really high heat areas around the Piston rings than conventional.
This^^^^^^^^^^
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
I love that folks want to put an economy oil into an expensive truck like that. Really? Spend the money and don't be so cheap.
Pfff thanks for showing after a decade and 25K posts you have learned Nada.
No, synthetic is better than conventional / semi-synthetic. Sorry. Modern engines are far more taxing on oil today than 10 years ago. Maybe not so much in this case but in general and a synthetic is going to leave less deposits and do a better job in the really high heat areas around the Piston rings than conventional.
This^^^^^^^^^^
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
... Only wrinkle there is that Ford does indeed call out their -B1 oil spec (for LSPI) in the 2018+ owner's manual for the 5.0L Coyote. ...
Changed it in late 2018. My Owner's Manual, 3rd Printing, Feb. 2018 calls for the -A spec. I trust either is acceptable.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/04/full-1725-31754-5.0l_oil_spec.jpg "[Linked Image]")
... Only wrinkle there is that Ford does indeed call out their -B1 oil spec (for LSPI) in the 2018+ owner's manual for the 5.0L Coyote. ...
Changed it in late 2018. My Owner's Manual, 3rd Printing, Feb. 2018 calls for the -A spec. I trust either is acceptable.
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Just the other day I did my oil change with T6 5w40, I bought the 2.5 gallon jug because the 2018 and up 5.0 requires 10 quarts. My OCI moving forward will be 7500 with motorcraft fl500. Its very simple, drain the oil, pour the old oil back in the 2.5 gallon jug, swap oil filters and my cost was 60 bucks all in with filter. My 2002 4.6 F150 used it for 250k, lots of towing / hauling and the timing chains were quite, the inside was extremely clean, almost no tan varnish on the valve train parts under the valve covers. I feel T6 is a very good truck oil. FWIW, anyone with the Gen3 5.0 should really consider the Ronin drain plug. I cant wait to do a UOA after this next run of 7500 miles.
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
... the 2018 and up 5.0 requires 10 quarts. ...
May want to check that capacity on a truck. Mustangs are 10 quarts, IIRC.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/04/full-1725-31756-5.0l_oil_capacity.jpg "[Linked Image]")
... the 2018 and up 5.0 requires 10 quarts. ...
May want to check that capacity on a truck. Mustangs are 10 quarts, IIRC.
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Originally Posted by doyall
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
... Only wrinkle there is that Ford does indeed call out their -B1 oil spec (for LSPI) in the 2018+ owner's manual for the 5.0L Coyote. ...
Changed it in late 2018. My Owner's Manual, 3rd Printing, Feb. 2018 calls for the -A spec. I trust either is acceptable.
Ford updated the OM for 2018 to the -B1 spec, so apparently they think the -B1 spec should now also apply to the 2018 models for the same reasons it's specified for the 2019 models.
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
... Only wrinkle there is that Ford does indeed call out their -B1 oil spec (for LSPI) in the 2018+ owner's manual for the 5.0L Coyote. ...
Changed it in late 2018. My Owner's Manual, 3rd Printing, Feb. 2018 calls for the -A spec. I trust either is acceptable.
Ford updated the OM for 2018 to the -B1 spec, so apparently they think the -B1 spec should now also apply to the 2018 models for the same reasons it's specified for the 2019 models.
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My first oil change I put in 8qts, checked it and dident show any on the dipstick. Added one qt, checked and just below the lowest mark on the dipstick. One more qt it was at the full mark. My manual also says 8.8, but 10 makes it full. I can remember the first oil change I kept look under the truck to make sure it was not leaking out as I was pouring it in, saying to myself "how much oil does this truck take"? I went inside and poked around online and it seems a very active subject where 8.8 is not enough to show full but 10 is just right. I dont see how the f150 and mustang are any different, I believe the new plastic oil pan is the same on the truck.
Elcamino did you run the engine to get it warmed up then shut it off and wait 15 mins to check the oil? That's the way to do it according to the owners manual. Seems to me that the dipstick is not properly calibrated. Mainly because of the tsb for oil consumption where they will change the oil. Fill it to 1 quart short. Mark the dipstick. Then add a quart and mark it again. Seems like "full" is actually the middle of the hash marks from what I've seen.
Originally Posted by advocate
Elcamino did you run the engine to get it warmed up then shut it off and wait 15 mins to check the oil? That's the way to do it according to the owners manual. Seems to me that the dipstick is not properly calibrated. Mainly because of the tsb for oil consumption where they will change the oil. Fill it to 1 quart short. Mark the dipstick. Then add a quart and mark it again. Seems like "full" is actually the middle of the hash marks from what I've seen.
Chrysler has similar wording... Check the oil at operating temperature after 10 minutes being shut down. It makes no difference whether it's cold or hot on my dipstick.
Elcamino did you run the engine to get it warmed up then shut it off and wait 15 mins to check the oil? That's the way to do it according to the owners manual. Seems to me that the dipstick is not properly calibrated. Mainly because of the tsb for oil consumption where they will change the oil. Fill it to 1 quart short. Mark the dipstick. Then add a quart and mark it again. Seems like "full" is actually the middle of the hash marks from what I've seen.
Chrysler has similar wording... Check the oil at operating temperature after 10 minutes being shut down. It makes no difference whether it's cold or hot on my dipstick.
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Yes, been driving for a week or so now with ten quarts. After sitting overnight a clean cold dipstick shots top of full mark. A hot engine sitting for about ten to fifteen minutes show the same reading. Parking in a garage with very little slope.
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Originally Posted by ChemLabNL
Pennzoil YB 10w30 is an excellent oil but for a few bucks more maybe consider Quaker State Ultimate 10w30. Both are high moly and boron. Use 10w30 in Florida.
I actually saw that and was thinking the same think last time I was in walmart. I remember it was about 20 bucks a jug
Pennzoil YB 10w30 is an excellent oil but for a few bucks more maybe consider Quaker State Ultimate 10w30. Both are high moly and boron. Use 10w30 in Florida.
I actually saw that and was thinking the same think last time I was in walmart. I remember it was about 20 bucks a jug
It's only a buck more at Walmart. Excellent Noack.
https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/a75302e0-836a-48f0-aa00-bc1b1664fb92.pdf
https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/a75302e0-836a-48f0-aa00-bc1b1664fb92.pdf
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