Flesh wound on the oil pan or replace it on next OCI?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Messages
1,277
Location
PA
Hit a trailer wheel/tire on the highway last week. Took off the plastic shield on my Mazda 3 to find the oil pan took a nice hit. I'm approaching 7K miles which is when I usually change oil.

Should I prioritize replacing this or change the oil and don't worry about it?

[Linked Image]
 
I would assume the pickup is located in the kickdown right in the middle of the pan, therefore that dent in the oil pan should not create an oil starvation issue. I would leave it til it starts leaking or something.
 
Last edited:
If that dent is below the pick-up - replace.

It that dent is on the other side from the pick-up - leave it.
 
It looks like you can get at all the bolts easy enough. If it's not too expensive for a new one, I would go ahead and change it out. I see where it has several spots starting to rust already. So if you do change it out, you might want to paint the new one before you install it, with something like Rustoleum. Give it a couple of heavy coats. The dents might be enough to give a false dipstick reading as well.
 
You are very fortunate it didn't hit the filter.

I agree with the above comments, it will depend on where the oil pickup is located.

I would also do a thorough check of everything underneath.
 
Last edited:
It's fine but it will need replacement in the future. Just keep an eye on it. I'd just wire brush the rust and then touch up the areas with high temperature spray paint. Then once dry hit it with some oil based anti-rust spray to coat it.

When you do replace it share pics of the bottom end when the pan is off.
20.gif
 
Looks just like the dent on the oil pan of the 289V8 in my '65 Comet. Bought the car used and that feature came with it. Never changed the oil pan.

It also had a misplaced gasket between the air cleaner and the carburettor with a patch of dust right beside it.

It had quite low miles but it seems it had lead a hard life. That engine only lasted for 80,000 miles before major oil burning.
 
"IF" the pickup is above the dent: Remove the pan and carefully check the pickup. There have been many ruined engines due to oil pickup problems (sucking air) from dented oil pans. The pickup gets bent upwards and cracks, separates or is jammed into a poor position. The result is oil starvation.

If the pickup is damaged at all, replace it.

The pan is steel, so it's very likely to be easy to rework and knock the dents out. Clean the rust, paint and re-install.
 
Last edited:
I've driven it about 200 Miles since the incident. No lights and engine is running well. I did order the pan, it was $90 and yes, they claim no gasket. I thought having a gasket would make it easier. Now I have to try and not make a mess with silicone. I assume the high temp orange RTV is sufficient?
 
I'd use Permatex Ultra Black. It's about $5 a tube. This is a place where more is NOT better. Spread lightly......
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by DavidJones
I'd use Permatex Ultra Black. It's about $5 a tube. This is a place where more is NOT better. Spread lightly......


Yeah, make sure any sealant you use resists oil. I've used Permatex Ultra Gray with good results.

As stated, you don't need a thick coating. The object is to prevent blobs of sealant squishing into the pan.
 
So don't apply it like the stock photo suggests on Amazon?

[Linked Image]


Is one tube enough?
 
One 1/2 a 3+ounce tube would be too much.
You can control that with the cut you make in the nozzle, somewhere between 3-5mm is the opening you want.
 
You've already ordered the pan.

If you hadn't, I'd suggest a few square inches of fine wire mesh, and sealed to the pan underside with a generous, uniform thick layer of windshield urethane.

There are "emergency repairs" of perforated oil pans that have held up leak free for years with the above farm engineered fix.

Don't ask me how I know
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted by ofelas
You've already ordered the pan.

If you hadn't, I'd suggest a few square inches of fine wire mesh, and sealed to the pan underside with a generous, uniform thick layer of windshield urethane.

There are "emergency repairs" of perforated oil pans that have held up leak free for years with the above farm engineered fix.

Don't ask me how I know
grin2.gif

I'd save that for an engine that has to be yanked/lifted to replace the pan.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top