That six speed transmission is pretty bullet proof. How many kids are driving Accents around who've never changed. change it without worrying.
so ashamed and scared -sonata
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That six speed transmission is pretty bullet proof. How many kids are driving Accents around who've never changed. change it without worrying.
99% of cars probably go this far without anyone even thinking about the fluid. If it still goes fine, there's nothing wrong with it.
If it's not a real pain to do, I'd hook it up to a hose and exchange the fluid. I don't believe that exchanging fluid will kill a gearbox. At least, I've never seen any proof.
If it's not a real pain to do, I'd hook it up to a hose and exchange the fluid. I don't believe that exchanging fluid will kill a gearbox. At least, I've never seen any proof.
To summarize:
I think you're much worse off leaving the old fluid in than whatever potential bad thing could happen by putting in fresh fluid.
High-pressure power flushing = bad.
Few places high-pressure power flush anymore.
Complete fluid transfer = good.
Some theories say a complete fluid transfer might loosen too much gunk too quickly, plugging up the internals.
Those people recommend a drain and fill instead.
Drain and fill = good. But only replaces x% of the fluid each time.
Lots of dealers only do drain and fill now.
Even replacing 30% of the fluid with fresh stuff can be a big improvement.
You can often do a full transfer yourself, but you have to remove a transmission line, and there is a little more risk of doing something dumb and destroying the transmission. Drain and fill is basically like doing an oil change.
Now here's what I was searching for answers to yesterday... I was wondering how much cleaning power new ATF has based on time, not miles. If someone does a 50% drain and fill, drives the car 50 miles, then parks it for months, would the months have equivalent cleaning power of having driven it, say, 1000 miles? 5000 miles? The fluid would be cold and have no flow when the car is parked, but the new ATF should be doing some kind of cleaning.
Also, it's strange to see so many people recommend drain and fills for the reason of not wanting to disturb too much gunk too quickly with a full fluid replacement, but then some of the same people recommend doing 3 or even 5 drain and fills practically back to back. "Drain and fill, cycle through the gears, drive a couple miles, then drain and fill again." That's not giving the new fluid much time to slowly dissolve gunk. It's basically a full fluid transfer but uses more fluid, which defeats the stated purpose of wanting to dissolve gunk slowly.
Flush or D&F just start maintenance on the AT and you should be fine.
Originally Posted by Kestas
I don't subscribe to partial fluid changes. I don't know anybody that does partial changes with engine oil. Why do it for transmissions?
If I could pull a plug and let it all drain out, then sure. But automatic transmissions are getting harder and harder to do any maintenance on at all, so many times a partial drain and refill is the only simple option.
And don't bring up disconnecting the line, run it, fill it, etc, many (including me) feel it is too much of a hassle compared to a simple (relative) drain and fill.
A partial drain and refill is better than nothing, especially if done on a regular basis.
I don't subscribe to partial fluid changes. I don't know anybody that does partial changes with engine oil. Why do it for transmissions?
If I could pull a plug and let it all drain out, then sure. But automatic transmissions are getting harder and harder to do any maintenance on at all, so many times a partial drain and refill is the only simple option.
And don't bring up disconnecting the line, run it, fill it, etc, many (including me) feel it is too much of a hassle compared to a simple (relative) drain and fill.
A partial drain and refill is better than nothing, especially if done on a regular basis.
Kestas
Staff member
Agreed. People do partial drain and fills because it's easier. I go the extra step because I believe it's better for the car. Plus, ATF fluids are getting rather expensive on some new models. I don't like to mix expensive fluids with dirty fluid.
If ATF hasn't been changed at that mileage, D/F is way to go to avoid potential clutches' slippage.
Also, correct me if I'm wrong, ATF level needs to be checked while car is running.
Kia level check procedure calls for addition of 700ml of ATF before checking level when opening level check hole.
Also, correct me if I'm wrong, ATF level needs to be checked while car is running.
Kia level check procedure calls for addition of 700ml of ATF before checking level when opening level check hole.
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Sure … my toughest on ATF vehicle is the Cruze … so every spring it costs me $20 for a jug of Maxlife and a few minutes extra during an oil change …
I'll be starting the first of (2) 6L80's … after the initial pan drop a (new filter and clean magnets) … Will install a B&M drain plug … now that's on cycle to just do clean and easy D&F in the spring …
No differential equations (sorry) needed … I'm putting some fresh fluid in annually and that's far better than what's in the owners manual … Even if the full displacement might be better …
I'll be starting the first of (2) 6L80's … after the initial pan drop a (new filter and clean magnets) … Will install a B&M drain plug … now that's on cycle to just do clean and easy D&F in the spring …
No differential equations (sorry) needed … I'm putting some fresh fluid in annually and that's far better than what's in the owners manual … Even if the full displacement might be better …
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No worries, just remove the drain plug and refill. Drive it for a few thousand miles and then do it again. You will need a new aluminum crush washer and they are an odd size so get them at the dealer. (not expensive). Clean the magnetic tip on the drain plug when you remove it.
I had similar style transmission on my Santa Fe. No filter, long life fluid, just a drain plug.
If you notice weird shifting right after, reset the adaptive logic by disconnecting the battery for about 20 minutes. Drive the vehicle in traffic coming to complete stops and getting up to top gear as many times as you can (without over doing it) until the transmission comes up to full operating temperature (usually 1/2 hour past full coolant temperature) and avoid the highway during this time. Best way I found to reset their adaptive logic without doing the dealer re-learn procedure with the scan tool.
I had similar style transmission on my Santa Fe. No filter, long life fluid, just a drain plug.
If you notice weird shifting right after, reset the adaptive logic by disconnecting the battery for about 20 minutes. Drive the vehicle in traffic coming to complete stops and getting up to top gear as many times as you can (without over doing it) until the transmission comes up to full operating temperature (usually 1/2 hour past full coolant temperature) and avoid the highway during this time. Best way I found to reset their adaptive logic without doing the dealer re-learn procedure with the scan tool.
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