i'm really ashamed to admit this and scared too. i've always done good maintenance on my vehicles and have had cars last a long time without problems--including my 500k mile accord with original trans and engine. however we have a 2013 sonata that hasn't given us any problems (i replaced hpfp and that's been it) now here's my confession: it has 145k miles and i haven't changed the ATF. there's no dipstick, it runs fine and i know i need to change it and deserve all of the bashing i get on here. my concern is i've read that even with a perfectly executed fluid change, problems can start. what should i do? i can't believe i've let this happen and am pretty mad at myself
so ashamed and scared -sonata
- Thread starter joel95ex
- Start date
- Status
I would avoid flush at this point. Just release fluid and refill, replace filter (if there is one). Maybe you should do refill several times just to have fresh fluid as majority.
But at that milage, do not do flush.
But at that milage, do not do flush.
Last edited by a moderator:
yes after owning honda's where they specifically recommend not flushing, i've always done drain & refills. i guess my real question is do y'all think i'm in trouble? the only time i ever came close to something like this was when i bought a vehicle with an unknown ATF history. has anyone seen a trans be ok after a first time drain/refill with this kind of mileage?
No shame, just replace the fluid and drive on.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Agree with edyvw ... My PU/SUV still have pans - but our FWD (GT and hybrid) both just have internal screens and drain plugs -
so I have always just drained, measured, and replaced - just so happens a jug of Maxlife ATF is what it takes to keep swapping in some fresh fluid
(on my ramps - it will vary if level or some other ramps, so measure what you drain) ...
so I have always just drained, measured, and replaced - just so happens a jug of Maxlife ATF is what it takes to keep swapping in some fresh fluid
(on my ramps - it will vary if level or some other ramps, so measure what you drain) ...
No need to overreact. If the fluid is still mostly red (instead of brown) you don't have any problem. Replace it by drain and refill when you are ready. No stress.
I think I would rather risk it and put new fluid in it instead of leaving it. I do drain and refills all the time on my Civic. The Corvette has a sealed transmission and is rather difficult to change and is supposed to go 100,000 miles before changing. Change yours and let us know if it works ok.
Drain and fill. I saved an old cutlass ciera that had a pan and filter so full of silt it didn't make pressure to hold gears higher than first. New fluid and filter got way more life from it!
Any old wives tales about old fluid holding stuff together are exactly that.
And newer cars with their electronic shift timing and engine power cutting shred their trannies less than the older ones.
Any old wives tales about old fluid holding stuff together are exactly that.
And newer cars with their electronic shift timing and engine power cutting shred their trannies less than the older ones.
Kestas
Staff member
I would go ahead and exchange the fluid. I too could never understand how new fluid could be harmful to a transmission.
"Forgive me BITOG for I hath sinned"
I was in similar situation about 6 years ago - maxima with 132k on FF and no apparent shifting issues. Nissan matic-D is DexIII equivalent. I did drain and refill with Maxlife- that's about 40%. Fluid was brown. Year later the transmission was fine so I decided to add the transmission D&F to the annual(spring) maintenance routine. Today - 6 years later the transmission is still smooth. Now it has less than 10% of the FF fluid left in there if I'm doing the math correctly
NO WORRIES. Forget all the "sky is falling" garbage that people spew about changing old transmission fluid. I say to never "flush" even when new, just simple drain and refills is all they need. Also, you have some high miles on your 2.4 if it's the original motor.
Kestas
Staff member
I don't subscribe to partial fluid changes. I don't know anybody that does partial changes with engine oil. Why do it for transmissions?
I like the full changes too, but some mfg's make it very difficult. Some even advise D&R, like Honda did on my 2006 Odyssey.
If the transmission doesn't show any signs of abnormal behavior, such as delayed gear engagement, rough downshifts or upshifts, clunking noises etc. then I would do a full ATF exchange.
I did a full trans flush on a Volvo with 130k or 140k miles through the trans cooler hose. Ran auto Rx before and replaced the factory atf with redline. Installed a magnefine at the same time. No issues. The combo of high miles, additive and non licensed ATF would have most people freaking out but was not a big deal and never had issues. I was also ok with if I messed up something I would eat the cost. Are ok with that?
Originally Posted by Kestas
I don't subscribe to partial fluid changes. I don't know anybody that does partial changes with engine oil. Why do it for transmissions?
In this case of high mileage, I'm hypothesizing that most think that a partial change might clean off any build up more gently and avoid any large chunks breaking off and clogging a tiny orifice. I have no idea whatsoever if this is a myth. But, it probably won't hurt anything to do the fluid change over several thousand miles instead of all at once. Just a guess, since we have no real metrics to to evaluate this.
I don't subscribe to partial fluid changes. I don't know anybody that does partial changes with engine oil. Why do it for transmissions?
In this case of high mileage, I'm hypothesizing that most think that a partial change might clean off any build up more gently and avoid any large chunks breaking off and clogging a tiny orifice. I have no idea whatsoever if this is a myth. But, it probably won't hurt anything to do the fluid change over several thousand miles instead of all at once. Just a guess, since we have no real metrics to to evaluate this.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
One is an ICE and one is gears, valves, clutches in a fairly clean environment …
And when I can do D&F "clean hands" in 20 minutes … doing that one …
Have done this trouble free for decades …
And when I can do D&F "clean hands" in 20 minutes … doing that one …
Have done this trouble free for decades …
- Status