Delivery Driver Oil: Kia 2012 Optima 2.4

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I am a delivery driver, which means a lot of stop and go driving, idling, and a lot of restarting the engine. I know this type of driving is [censored] for GDI engines. Right now I am running Quaker State Synthetic 0W20 from about Nov to April because of the extreme cold in my state (gets down to -25 a couple times a year) and will switch to Quaker State High Milage Blend 5w30 from April to Nov. 5,000 miles will likely not be reached on either oil change. I also run the OEM filter and put some Chevron in the fuel tank every oil change. Is this about the best I can do in a bad situation for a vehicle? I have 96,000 on it and she runs perfectly at the moment.
 
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Think you're doing fine, 0w20 seems a bit light even in Minnesota--but if it's not using oil and you're parking outside it's probably worth it. I try to use Top Tier and still put occasional Regane/Techron (PEA) in the tank about every five thousand miles.
 
I wouldn't change a thing.
These are the Top Tier fuel choices: https://toptiergas.com/licensed-brands/

...and
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Thank you for being proof that GDI isn't as terrible as some make it out to be...
Run a quality oil that meets the specifications (which you are doing) and change it at a reasonable interval. I'd say 5K for your application.

If you want to do anything (as anal maintenance to sleep at night) do the CRC GDI/Turbo/Intake Cleaner through the throttle body once a year but modern GDI's don't seem to have the same issues that first generation ones had.

Also take it out on the highway with some PEA based fuel system cleaner in the tank, for 30 minutes and beat on it a bit. (Really this is a good thing)
(Fully warm up the engine and oil before doing so).
 
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Keep an eye on fuel dilution, especially in the winter months. If it is an issue, a 0W-30 in the winter might be a better choice.
 
I think any D1G2 certified oil will do ya, but you might benefit from shorter OCIs and a nice long drive once weekly to boil any fuel or condensate in the oil.

Deliver/taxi/Uber is a severe use case.
 
its doing fine + don't need fixing, but you could prolly use super-tech full synthetics all around for the same or less $$
 
Hi, I have read that 0W20 and 5w20 are pretty much interchangeable. Why do you not recommend 0W20 for winter?
 
Originally Posted by Whammo
Hi, I have read that 0W20 and 5w20 are pretty much interchangeable. Why do you not recommend 0W20 for winter?

Because most places don't get down to -35c (-31F) (What 0w20 is tested at for cold cranking) and 5w20 (Rated at -30c / -22F) is easier to find in most cases than 0w20 although that is changing. You can use a 0w20 in place of a 5w20 just fine.
 
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Originally Posted by benjy
its doing fine + don't need fixing, but you could prolly use super-tech full synthetics all around for the same or less $$

I see lots of Ubers at the local quick lubes getting filled with bulk Pennzoil, Castrol or Havoline conventional and they get worked to the bone(not as much as a work truck, but still) - SuperTech "synthetic" is a upgrade for only a few bucks more and it's GM approved in non-high mileage form(in the 5W-30 weight, the 0W-20 product might also be D1G2).
 
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