Craftsman/Kohler Riding Mower Battery Connected in Reverse

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2000 Craftsman mower model 917.271131 with a Kohler Command PRO 16.5HP OHV model CV16S-43527 spec #43527 Family YKHXS.4262GB 426cc engine.

Battery was connected backwards as in positive cable connected to negative battery post & vice versa). Tried to start not knowing the problem. Not it will start but runs & dies in < 1 minute with a blown 15A fuse. Thoughts on what's bad? Regulator? Schematic is on page 31 of this PDF.
 
Try the voltage regulator first.

If it still has a standard magneto ignition system, the battery polarity should NOT dictate "how long" it runs for.

Most riding mowers have a charging function to provide for headlights (rather poorly) and recharging the battery after starting (really poorly, I might add)

The electrical system almost never affects the ignition system.
 
I would wonder about the regulator that is off the alternator. That or the ignition unit.
 
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Don't they have an electric fuel shutoff?

Your mower is a Husqvarna, so you can get parts at a Husqvarna dealer also. (The 917. means Husqvarna).

Disconnect the regulator and see what happens. You can measure the AC volts output of the alternator per the wiring diagram.

Mower should run for awhile without the feed from the alternator as the only current being used is for ignition and flue shutoff.
 
Originally Posted by Eddie
I may be crazy but, I've had the vent on the gas cap do the very same thing. Check the vent valve on the gas cap. Ed


Not going to blow the fuse.
 
When I first got my sitdown, I put the ground shutoff wire to the + . The fix was a new magneto /gen. This is an old B+S 11 hp.
 
The regulator and/or the ignition unit [both shown as rectangles on the schematic could be fried. The rectangle box most likley means they are solid state devices that have diodes and/or transistors, neither will tolerate reverse polarity. They will burn up in less than the time it takes for the fuse to blow. The solonodies/relays will not be damaged from the reverse current but the solid state devices are destroied.
 
^^^^. and when 12V is lost, the fuel cutoff solenoid, if so equipped, will close, shutting down fuel flow.
 
Unplug the regulator put in a new fuse and connect the battery (make sure it is the right way). If the fuse holds, that means the regulator is blown. The machine should start and run without the regulator, but of course the battery will run down.
 
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The ignition module was removed from the lawn mower (disconnected from spark plug & unbolted from near the rotating flywheel). Set multimeter to ohm & checked between metal armature portion of the coil & the end socket (where the spark plug connects). It has complete resistance "1". Test Instructions

Removed the regulator/rectifier & checked for continuity between the center and each outer pole. Complete resistance.

It looks like both parts are bad & need replacing? Any other parts to check that are suspect?
 
When measuring ohms, a single "1" on the left side of the screen means an open circuit. It is the same as you see with the probes not touching anything. This is usually good when you are checking for shorts.

A one piece ignition coil mounted next to the flywheel is self-powered. It doesn't connect to the battery system at all. The only connection to the controls is the single "kill wire" which will stop the engine when the wire is connected to ground. That happens when the key is turned off or if one of the safety circuits activates, such as having the blade engaged with the seat unoccupied.

You can easily find out shorted regulator by leaving it disconnected and see if the fuse holds and the rest of the mower works.
 
Voltage regulator & ignition module have been replaced. The issue now is that it dies & blows the fuse when I engage the blade.
 
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