Burning oil/blue smoke after a long idle period

[sh40674]

So here's the situation, I have an 06 ram I'd like to sell soon. I've noticed (not how far back I cant remember) she uses a quart or 2 of oil per oil change (3-4k). Ot does have some seepage around the pan and front seal so I've always chalked it up to that.

The last month I've noticed after picking my kid up from daycare, in which the truck idles for about 10 minutes or so, then after I back down her driveway into the street, and when I throw it in drive and give it some gas to go forward I get a puff of blue smoke.

I haven't noticed any smoke otherwise, not at idle, not getting on it on the highway (as far as I can tell), not at start up, not revving it in the driveway, the only times I've ever noticed is after a long sit idling and then giving it some gas when I take off. I was due for an oil change so I thought maybe new oil, plus a bottle of STP oil treatment (the honey thick stuff with zinc) might be a little thicker and help, but again today I noticed it.

Is this a pcv issue? Plugs not burning everything? Bad rings?

Pcv valve was new probably 15 or 20k miles ago, but it wasnt a mopar brand, I believe a BWD from AA.

06 ram 4.7L

 

[Linctex]

It is the Intake valve guides and/or intake valve seals

If you are selling it soon, fill 'er up with 20W-50 and see if the smoke stops.

 

[JLTD]

What viscosity oil are you using? Synthetic or Dino? Agree that a thicker oil may eliminate or slow the usage, especially if you're using xxw-20. Don't know that I'd go all the way to a 50, but with summer coming a 10w- or 15w-40 might work well.

 

[oldhp]

I would go with a new OEM PCV. How many miles on it??? Maybe go to a High Mileage oil.

 

[Chris142]

Valve stem seals. Try a high milagee oil.

 

[sh40674]

I just threw supertech regular 5w30 in it, and the bottle of stp oil treatment.

Would going to a high mileage change anything right away?

Is 15-40 safe to run? What about a 10-40?

 

[demarpaint]

Most likely stem seals. Replacing the PCV valve wouldn't hurt. I would use an OE part and ditch the aftermarket PCV valve. You could also try a HM oil, bumping up a grade, or both.

Over the years I had a couple of instances where changing the PCV valve with an aftermarket valve resulted in oil use. Going back to an OE part quickly corrected it, however I never saw blue smoke.

 

[sh40674]

What about those stop smoke additives? Or would a higher grade oil be better?

 

[RooflessVW]

Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver.

 

[StevieC]

I'd change the PCV first with an OEM one.

If that doesn't work it's most likely the valve seals. Lubegard Bio-tech has ester in it and will do a good job conditioning the valve seals, I'd add it to Valvoline MaxLife. It's nothing to worry about though. It's minor and just the engine showing its age if it is the valve seals and not the PCV. It's not bad at this point because it takes 10 minutes idling to leak enough oil to create a puff of smoke. When the seals get really bad you will have constant small amounts of blue smoke at idle with a big cloud as you drive away. My 1980's Caravan with the Mitsu 2.6 was a smoker like this. Burned a quart and a bit of oil per gas fill-up.

Drove it like that for years.

Good luck.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted by sh40674


Would going to a high mileage change anything right away?

Is 15-40 safe to run? What about a 10-40?


The HM oils are designed for exactly the situation you have. They contain seal conditioners that help soften dried out seals. The viscosity is also towards the high end of the spec. But more importantly (in some situations such as worn rings) , the HTHS specification is generally quite high. In other words, HM oils have excellent high temperature viscosity and consumption is reduced.

As a general rule, HM oils are a far better choice than thin oils and an STP/other additive mix.

15-40 or other similar oil is absolutely safe to run.

 

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by sh40674
I just threw supertech regular 5w30 in it, and the bottle of stp oil treatment.

Would going to a high mileage change anything right away?

Is 15-40 safe to run? What about a 10-40?


Try Max life high mileage which has seal conditioners, go up a viscosity grade for sure. STP oil treatment is useless...

For example they sell 15W40 Maxlife cheaply at walmart, https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...0-Heavy-Duty-Motor-Oil-1-Gallon/49660457

40WT oil is perfectly safe. the 15/10 component is what the viscosity will be cold, for the summer you will be ok with 15/10W Oils

 

[Anduril]

Sounds exactly like valve seals. My Mustang did this, while at the same time burning about 1 qt/1k miles. I replaced them (parts were only about $15, but took a week's worth of evenings) and the smoke stopped, as well as the consumption.

When I removed the old seals, the rubber was very hard and clearly not sealing anything anymore. It happens with heat and age, more commonly on some engines than others. Before changing the seals, I tried 5w-40 and 15w-50, and neither had a meaningful effect on either smoke or oil use, though the engine felt sluggish as [censored] on 15w-50 so that wasn't a long-term solution anyways.

 

[sh40674]

Thanks guys. The filter is new so I'll just dump and refill with 10/40.. btw, why doesnt 10/40 have the approval seal on front like other grades?

Also, will supertech HM work fine or go for sure with the valvoline?

 

[sh40674]

And I'm going to rule out the pcv... just checked advance and rock auto, there is no Chrysler part offered, just standard motor products at rock and BWD at advance. I'm assuming if they didnt work there would be negative reviews, but I cant locate a pcv without going to a dealer. I will pull it off and make sure it rattles free and isnt clogged or anything