Just bought this car with probably the original battery from 2011. It was dead so I connected a jump box to it and left it on for the 30 mile drive home. After getting home I see vapor coming out of the vents and the case is too hot to even touch. Why did it get so hot?
Battery smoking hot
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Over charging maybe from the alternator?
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Why did you leave the jump box connected while driving home?
I have seen shorted batteries do this. What condition was the jump box in when you shut it off?
I'm not an expert, but, I believe a "jump box" is meant to supply enough power to start the car and then be disconnected. Once the car is started the alternator is charging the battery. Leaving the jump box connected would overcharge the battery, hence the overheating. Don't leave the jump box connected once the car starts. A jump box is not meant to be a battery charger.
I'm thinking maybe a shorted cell in the battery and it's absorbing lots of charging current from the alternator as a result.
Originally Posted by Donald
Why did you leave the jump box connected while driving home?
The last time this happened on another car with a dead battery apparently the alternator didn't charge when the battery was so low. Kept it on just in case.
Originally Posted by Dinoburner
I have seen shorted batteries do this. What condition was the jump box in when you shut it off?
Jump box seems fine,
Why did you leave the jump box connected while driving home?
The last time this happened on another car with a dead battery apparently the alternator didn't charge when the battery was so low. Kept it on just in case.
Originally Posted by Dinoburner
I have seen shorted batteries do this. What condition was the jump box in when you shut it off?
Jump box seems fine,
My jump box says to disconnect within 30 seconds of starting the vehicle.
A) If you want to continue to use that battery make sure to top off the cells with distilled water after it cools down. Sounds like you boiled off a lot of fluid.
B) There should be a sticker on the battery somewhere that shows how old it is. If it's more the 4 years old and you are having problems with it, just replace it.
C) Although the alternator could be bad and not charging the battery, I would first suspect the old battery is failing. To be sure, I believe most major auto parts stores will test both the alternator and battery for you for free.
B) There should be a sticker on the battery somewhere that shows how old it is. If it's more the 4 years old and you are having problems with it, just replace it.
C) Although the alternator could be bad and not charging the battery, I would first suspect the old battery is failing. To be sure, I believe most major auto parts stores will test both the alternator and battery for you for free.
Originally Posted by slug_bug
A) If you want to continue to use that battery make sure to top off the cells with distilled water after it cools down. Sounds like you boiled off a lot of fluid.
B) There should be a sticker on the battery somewhere that shows how old it is. If it's more the 4 years old and you are having problems with it, just replace it.
C) Although the alternator could be bad and not charging the battery, I would first suspect the old battery is failing. To be sure, I believe most major auto parts stores will test both the alternator and battery for you for free.
Battery is at least 8 if not 9 years old as it looks like the original one in a 2011 model. Just put in a spare AC Delco I had stored in the basement from a parts car. It's probably 6 years old but has been out of the car and on a maintainer for years and tests good.
A) If you want to continue to use that battery make sure to top off the cells with distilled water after it cools down. Sounds like you boiled off a lot of fluid.
B) There should be a sticker on the battery somewhere that shows how old it is. If it's more the 4 years old and you are having problems with it, just replace it.
C) Although the alternator could be bad and not charging the battery, I would first suspect the old battery is failing. To be sure, I believe most major auto parts stores will test both the alternator and battery for you for free.
Battery is at least 8 if not 9 years old as it looks like the original one in a 2011 model. Just put in a spare AC Delco I had stored in the basement from a parts car. It's probably 6 years old but has been out of the car and on a maintainer for years and tests good.
IMHO, the most obvious cause is a collapsed/shorted cell.
gathermewool
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The jump box likely doesn't put out the same voltage as the alternator, and may have back-feed prevention circuitry. I would guess that instruction saying to disconnect within 30 seconds of starting the vehicle is either because:
1. There is no back-feed prevention circuitry
2. They don't want to risk a failed diode to prevent back-feed from the alternator to the pack, over-charging of the pack, and the potential explosion of the jump pack battery (li-ion)
Leaving your jump-pack installed in parallel with the battery was a very foolish thing to do, regardless. Even if the reason is due to a failed alternator, these packs are NOT meant to run the vehicle. While the amperage draw is much lower running than starting the engine, I still wouldn't trust the pack to do that, with the battery OUT OF the loop.
Finally, if the jump-pack wasn't hot, discharged or exploded, then it likely has nothing to do with your starter battery issue.
What you SHOULD do, on a go-forward basis, is spend the $15 (or less) to get a multimeter. You can even buy a cheap lighter-socket plug-in that will display voltage. Why in the world would you guess that the alternator might not be up to snuff when you can spend seconds checking it???
p.s. I would immediately check what the alternator is putting out and check the voltage of the battery before driving that vehicle anywhere!!!
1. There is no back-feed prevention circuitry
2. They don't want to risk a failed diode to prevent back-feed from the alternator to the pack, over-charging of the pack, and the potential explosion of the jump pack battery (li-ion)
Leaving your jump-pack installed in parallel with the battery was a very foolish thing to do, regardless. Even if the reason is due to a failed alternator, these packs are NOT meant to run the vehicle. While the amperage draw is much lower running than starting the engine, I still wouldn't trust the pack to do that, with the battery OUT OF the loop.
Finally, if the jump-pack wasn't hot, discharged or exploded, then it likely has nothing to do with your starter battery issue.
What you SHOULD do, on a go-forward basis, is spend the $15 (or less) to get a multimeter. You can even buy a cheap lighter-socket plug-in that will display voltage. Why in the world would you guess that the alternator might not be up to snuff when you can spend seconds checking it???
p.s. I would immediately check what the alternator is putting out and check the voltage of the battery before driving that vehicle anywhere!!!
Plus if the battery is dead, the best way to charge it is to put it on a 10 amp or less charger and let it charge up normally. Charging it at a rate greater than 10 amps isn't good for the long term health of the battery either and at higher currents, the battery tends to get hot and boil off water plus it also vents hydrogen gas and that's how you get battery explosions.
Originally Posted by slug_bug
A)If you want to continue to use that battery make sure to top off the cells with distilled water after it cools down. Sounds like you boiled off a lot of fluid.
B) There should be a sticker on the battery somewhere that shows how old it is. If it's more the 4 years old and you are having problems with it, just replace it.
C) Although the alternator could be bad and not charging the battery, I would first suspect the old battery is failing. To be sure, I believe most major auto parts stores will test both the alternator and battery for you for free.
Sorry I cannot agree. Battery needs to be replaced.
A)
B) There should be a sticker on the battery somewhere that shows how old it is. If it's more the 4 years old and you are having problems with it, just replace it.
C) Although the alternator could be bad and not charging the battery, I would first suspect the old battery is failing. To be sure, I believe most major auto parts stores will test both the alternator and battery for you for free.
Sorry I cannot agree. Battery needs to be replaced.
Originally Posted by Dave Sherman
I'm thinking maybe a shorted cell in the battery and it's absorbing lots of charging current from the alternator as a result.
I'd buy that, I had a saturn do that. 14.5 volts going into 5 cells will boil them like it won't boil 6 cells.
My car had its headlights go dim and blower motor slow down at idle, as the alt was full-fielded. It was normal-ish at cruise speed, cranked real slow, and the battery was an ugly gross mess. Lucky this didn't go on for too long as a new battery saved everything.
I'm thinking maybe a shorted cell in the battery and it's absorbing lots of charging current from the alternator as a result.
I'd buy that, I had a saturn do that. 14.5 volts going into 5 cells will boil them like it won't boil 6 cells.
My car had its headlights go dim and blower motor slow down at idle, as the alt was full-fielded. It was normal-ish at cruise speed, cranked real slow, and the battery was an ugly gross mess. Lucky this didn't go on for too long as a new battery saved everything.
That battery at that age is toast. I wouldn't take a 7-8 year old battery even if it was brand new. Time to swing by the auto parts. Also, the place where the vapor was venting might need some clean up; the smallest spits of battery acid can do damage.
Originally Posted by gathermewool
What you SHOULD do, on a go-forward basis, is spend the $15 (or less) to get a multimeter. You can even buy a cheap lighter-socket plug-in that will display voltage. Why in the world would you guess that the alternator might not be up to snuff when you can spend seconds checking it???
I don't need any tool to tell me the alternator isn't charging. Most cars sold in the last 80 years have a gauge or battery light on the dash that illuminates when there is a charging problem.
What you SHOULD do, on a go-forward basis, is spend the $15 (or less) to get a multimeter. You can even buy a cheap lighter-socket plug-in that will display voltage. Why in the world would you guess that the alternator might not be up to snuff when you can spend seconds checking it???
I don't need any tool to tell me the alternator isn't charging. Most cars sold in the last 80 years have a gauge or battery light on the dash that illuminates when there is a charging problem.
At the risk of getting screamed at I reccomend picking up a free multi-meter at Harbor Freight with a coupon found in magazines to check voltages. We have over 10 years given away 10 to 12 of them. We always check them for accuracy against a test instrument. As to the OP problem agree that battery is toast and the alternator should be checked. The battery box or jump starter is more than likely OK, but should be checked with a VOM.
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