Timing chain

[92saturnsl2]

Ouch only 97k for a chain?

I used to own a Dodge Caliber SRT4 with the 2.4L turbo World Engine, same family as this one I believe. Nice engines, very reliable. Is this engine known for eating chains/tensioners or is this an aberration?

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted by 92saturnsl2
Ouch only 97k for a chain?

I used to own a Dodge Caliber SRT4 with the 2.4L turbo World Engine, same family as this one I believe. Nice engines, very reliable. Is this engine known for eating chains/tensioners or is this an aberration?
That's the connection. The OE chain I got is shared with the Sonata 2.4L motor too.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Nice pictures!

IMO, if you didn't put the engine back together yet, you are probably still better off buying the new chain. Especially if the original needed replacing before 100k. There are *belts* that last longer than that

It seems like a difficult job that you definitely don't want to do again!

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted by SHOZ
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
That's a clean engine! What's your go-to oil?


Thanks. I use Mobil 1 and 5k mile OCI. Fram Ultra since they came out. 0W40 for the last few years, 5w30 for a couple of years.. But always has been synthetic since I dumped the factory fill. (5w20)

Here's the cams before I started.

And the amount of slack.

It takes the same chain as a Dodge and Mitsubishi motor, from their one time shared production or design arrangement.


Honestly that engine is spotless! It looks like a brand new engine. No wear whatsoever on the camshafts. That must be a really good engine!

 

[aquariuscsm]

Have you been able to tell any difference between the oils you use? M1 0W40 is something I've always been curious about but have never tried it.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
Nice pictures!

IMO, if you didn't put the engine back together yet, you are probably still better off buying the new chain. Especially if the original needed replacing before 100k. There are *belts* that last longer than that

It seems like a difficult job that you definitely don't want to do again!

If I didn't want to throw away the $50 the chain I got was and the better chain is $75 I would have. I doubt if the car sees another 100k miles at least with me driving it.

I don't drive it near as high as I did when it was new. It's suspected the chain wasn't designed for the higher rpm (7500) vs the Sonata 2.4L that the OE chain was picked off the parts shelf from.

10 years or so ago I did a V8 with DOHC but it was out of the car at the time.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Have you been able to tell any difference between the oils you use? M1 0W40 is something I've always been curious about but have never tried it.

I started out using M1 5w30. Had a couple oil test done and dilution was the only problem. One test was done after two track days and a 5k mile drive in between. The engine will actually 'make' oil as the dilution adds faster that if burns any oil , if any. Loose rings and high compression design I guess.

 

[zorobabel]

Anyone remember this thread?

 

[SHOZ]

Just for the record Hyundai has come out with a beefier chain but when I ordered it got the old part. Didn't know until after I got it. Mitsubishi had problems too with their Evo motors that had the same chain.

 

[SHOZ]

Just want to say it all is back together and runs!.. I'm always nervous. Only the second time for a chain on a DOHC engine for me. Thanks for the help.

Couple of pics of the oil pump.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by 92saturnsl2
Ouch only 97k for a chain?

I used to own a Dodge Caliber SRT4 with the 2.4L turbo World Engine, same family as this one I believe. Nice engines, very reliable. Is this engine known for eating chains/tensioners or is this an aberration?


Though I've owned multiple vehicles with >200k on the original chain, it's a misconception that chains are foolproof, last forever or are superior.

In many ways I think rebaseining timing, even on new computer controlled cars, every 60-100k is a smart move.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Originally Posted by JHZR2
Though I've owned multiple vehicles with >200k on the original chain, it's a misconception that chains are foolproof, last forever or are superior.


I actually prefer the simplicity of a belt, provided there is reasonable access for service. The pitfall becomes when cars get older, people lose track of service history (or ignore it altogether) any many cars see an early grave because the belt breaks

Most chain driven engines lack easy accessibility for service as the manufacturer assumes the chain will be good for the life of the car. I can replace all timing components and water pump in either my Pacifica or Odyssey (belt driven) in a couple hours. Doing anything to the chain or even just removing the front cover on my Maxima is a complete nightmare. Luckily the chain drive has been rock solid [knock on wood], and there's an access panel to swap out the water pump so you can replace it without removing the front cover.

 

[Silver]

That's a clean engine! What's your go-to oil?

But it needs a timing chain at 97k.

 

[Silver]

Car is 2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2L turbo, interference DOHC 4 cylinder engine.

So at 97k my timing chain is worn enough that there is a half inch deflection at midpoint between the cams.

Are you sure that slack is not ok? With no flow to the tensioners...[/html

 

[aquariuscsm]

Anyone remember this thread?

That's probably why Nissan says not to use below a 10W in my 300ZX.