Change the break in oil?

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Car manufactures do not recommend changing the oil during break in. So traditionally, break in oil was changed early to remove the metal flakes. But, shouldn't the filter be capturing that break in material? What's the consensus? Both sides seem to have a valid opinion.
 
I've never understood why people worry about the engine oil early, but not other fluid like transmission, diffs etc. I would just run maybe a slightly shorter interval for the first change if it makes you feel better, but the oil filter should be taking care of any break in metals.
 
I am an early changer, sure the filter will catch the larger particles but it all has to go through the pump before it gets to the filter. I rather get as much junk out as early as possible.
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I'm not stressing over the differentials. A scratch on those bevel gears wouldn't hurt much compared to a scratch on a piston bore. And transmission and coolant I try not to touch until after the warranty is over. That's my M.O. Engine oil I was stressing over.
 
I used to always change early the first time but I have quit that and wait till 5k. I know Honda recommends against an early change to keep the moly from the assembly lube in. This could be a factor for other makes also.
 
I do an early change on every thing. When the filter by passes and it does on ever start until the pressure builds up the engine gets unfiltered oil.
 
Are all the particles big enough for the filter to catch? I dump early, like really early. Dumped the mazda at about 400 miles.
 
I am an early changer as well.

My schedule for new vehicles is:

Engine - change oil and filter at 500 miles,

Transmission fluid, Power steering, differential, and Transfer case - lubricants changed at 10,000 miles,

Washer Fluid - every time it rains.
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I was/am an early changer.

My wifes new Fit I waited, as advised on here the FF was high in moly and itd be just a waste

Just about anything else new I would change at 1500
 
On engines I build, I dump the first fill after 20-30 minutes.
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(After the cam and lifters are ran in)
 
I am not sure if many new cars recommend early change ... my last 2 new cars said 7500 and 10K mile oci ... and I listened to them except that I shorten the oci to ~ 5K. I assume the manufacturers are not worried about it (metal shavings, etc.).
Maybe I shouldn't have listened to them and changed early like I don't listen when it comes to the grade. They both specify/recommend x20 and I have never purchased an ounce of 20
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I don't think I've gone over 1500 miles on the new engine, and 2000'ish on the rear gear oil. My 2017 Jeep was the worst new rear gear oil I've ever seen at 4400 miles. The front looked almost new.
 
Originally Posted by CT8
I do an early change on every thing. When the filter by passes and it does on ever start until the pressure builds up the engine gets unfiltered oil.


Oil filters don't bypass on start-up unless it's very cold (thick oil) and you rev the engine pretty high right after start-up. It has nothing to do with the oil pressure building up.
 
I told my brother go 3k on his new Charger Daytona, then go to when the computer says to change it. I'd do the same thing if I ever bought a new car.
 
I purchased a Mazda 3 last August. The manual specified a break-in procedure for the first 350 miles to drive under 65 MPH, keep RPM below 4000, do not use cruise control and try to do a mix of city and hwy driving. After the first 3000 miles (about late December) I changed the oil & filter. As expected there was a lot of shimmering "glitter" in the oil. A magnet swirled in the drain oil collected into a gummy film in short order. I installed a magnetic drain plug at the first OC.

As for transmissions and trans-axles which are not exposed to products of combustion, I usually do a flush & fill every three years. I've thought about installing magnetic drain plugs in the transmissions and will probably do that this year. Since I have full access to a machine shop, embedding a magnet in the end of drain plug would be a trivial task.

Ray
 
The dry sump C-7 2014 and newer Corvettes require changing the oil and filter at 500 miles. It has something to do with the silicates and gasket material and other products that get in the oil. After the first oil change you are ok to use the OLM.
 
Originally Posted by joekingcorvette
The dry sump C-7 2014 and newer Corvettes require changing the oil and filter at 500 miles. It has something to do with the silicates and gasket material and other products that get in the oil. After the first oil change you are ok to use the OLM.


My C7 has the wet sump, so GM doesn't call for the 500 mile oil change but I still did my first one early, at 1100 miles. I am glad that I did because there was 2% fuel dilution in it already and it had thinned out to 9.3 cst at 100c.
 
I've always changed early and frequently within the first couple thousand miles and then I go by what a UOA tells me is safe for my application. Transmission complete fluid change at 30K miles with filter (if applicable), and the diff at the same time. Power Steering I usually do at 50K miles (complete flush/fill) which is plenty considering that many never see any change their whole life. Brake fluid every 2 years regardless of mileage. Coolant at 1/2 the interval of the manufacturer with a spill/fill of the radiator only.
 
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