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VOA's are worthless. There are components in modern oils not shown on a VOA. Even things that do show up such as moly, Zinc phosphorous are worthless as there are a few different types.
+1 skyactiv. Lawnguy, it's been discussed in probably every third thread or so on the board for about the past 18 months...
1. the most important thing when picking an oil is: does it meet the manufacturer's specifications and viscosity requirements for your engine?
2. If yes, then nearly every oil is going to produce somewhat similar results and service lifetime.
3. If you are starting from scratch, change the oil with your "new" oil, and run it for mfr. recommended mileage or OLM, then do a UOA.
4. Pay attention to the viscosity and TBN, and if there are any recommendations from the lab.
5. If UOA viscosity is within range for the grade of oil, and the TBN is above 1.5-2.0, this oil most assuredly will protect your engine as well as any other certified oil you can get your hands on at the mileage you went.
Chasing wear metals on a UOA by swapping oils is a fool's errand after you've completed the five steps above. Buy whatever your heart desires, but unless you have a purpose-built race engine, all you need to do is pick an oil within the viscosity grade and certifications your OEM recommends and change it at a decent frequency, and your engine will never know the difference. Excellent air filtration, without leakage, is literally the best bet to obtain great wear metal results on UOAs (for your engine family)... NOT any "magic" engine oil itself.
When an oil manufacturer says "racing" or "not intended for street use" they are pretty clearly telling you it's not a good idea to try to use that oil in your daily driver, because the chemistry is most likely not designed to deal with long OCIs, lots of short tripping, etc. etc. Can you do it without negative results? Probably. But is it worth the cost of a rebuild if it doesn't sufficiently protect the engine? Not in my world.
1. the most important thing when picking an oil is: does it meet the manufacturer's specifications and viscosity requirements for your engine?
2. If yes, then nearly every oil is going to produce somewhat similar results and service lifetime.
3. If you are starting from scratch, change the oil with your "new" oil, and run it for mfr. recommended mileage or OLM, then do a UOA.
4. Pay attention to the viscosity and TBN, and if there are any recommendations from the lab.
5. If UOA viscosity is within range for the grade of oil, and the TBN is above 1.5-2.0, this oil most assuredly will protect your engine as well as any other certified oil you can get your hands on at the mileage you went.
Chasing wear metals on a UOA by swapping oils is a fool's errand after you've completed the five steps above. Buy whatever your heart desires, but unless you have a purpose-built race engine, all you need to do is pick an oil within the viscosity grade and certifications your OEM recommends and change it at a decent frequency, and your engine will never know the difference. Excellent air filtration, without leakage, is literally the best bet to obtain great wear metal results on UOAs (for your engine family)... NOT any "magic" engine oil itself.
When an oil manufacturer says "racing" or "not intended for street use" they are pretty clearly telling you it's not a good idea to try to use that oil in your daily driver, because the chemistry is most likely not designed to deal with long OCIs, lots of short tripping, etc. etc. Can you do it without negative results? Probably. But is it worth the cost of a rebuild if it doesn't sufficiently protect the engine? Not in my world.
Originally Posted by skyactiv
VOA's are worthless. There are components in modern oils not shown on a VOA. Even things that do show up such as moly, Zinc phosphorous are worthless as there are a few different types.
VOAs are not exactly worthless. They aren't terribly useful in determining the performance of a correctly formulated motor oil (in other words, an oil that isn't on the PQIA list of failures). They are, however, essential if one wishes to run a proper trended UOA program.
VOA's are worthless. There are components in modern oils not shown on a VOA. Even things that do show up such as moly, Zinc phosphorous are worthless as there are a few different types.
VOAs are not exactly worthless. They aren't terribly useful in determining the performance of a correctly formulated motor oil (in other words, an oil that isn't on the PQIA list of failures). They are, however, essential if one wishes to run a proper trended UOA program.
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
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1. the most important thing when picking an oil is: does it meet the manufacturer's specifications and viscosity requirements for your engine?
Exactly true for a daily driver...Probably 85 percent of vehicle owners do nothing special and even stretch oil changes..But the engines still run well after 200,000 miles..Only enthusiasts get anal over oil motor oil...
.
1. the most important thing when picking an oil is: does it meet the manufacturer's specifications and viscosity requirements for your engine?
Exactly true for a daily driver...Probably 85 percent of vehicle owners do nothing special and even stretch oil changes..But the engines still run well after 200,000 miles..Only enthusiasts get anal over oil motor oil...
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Is there any very recent Voa's in the Mobil 1 extended performance 5w30 ,and also the 10w30 VALVOLINEâ„¢ VR1 FULL SYNTHETIC RACING MOTOR OIL
Yeah, I couldn't find any recent ones for the Valvoline, but specs aside, I decided to give it a go in my 2015 Soul GDI (Uh oh...I can hear the gasps now...). The main adds weren't too high, TBN starts at about 8 (according to their website), and even though I short trip it, I do get it up to temp on a weekly basis to burn off some condensation. Lastly, I don't plan to leave this in as long as I normally do, just to be safe until it can be determined that she's good for longer.
Is there any very recent Voa's in the Mobil 1 extended performance 5w30 ,and also the 10w30 VALVOLINEâ„¢ VR1 FULL SYNTHETIC RACING MOTOR OIL
Yeah, I couldn't find any recent ones for the Valvoline, but specs aside, I decided to give it a go in my 2015 Soul GDI (Uh oh...I can hear the gasps now...). The main adds weren't too high, TBN starts at about 8 (according to their website), and even though I short trip it, I do get it up to temp on a weekly basis to burn off some condensation. Lastly, I don't plan to leave this in as long as I normally do, just to be safe until it can be determined that she's good for longer.
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