+1 skyactiv. Lawnguy, it's been discussed in probably every third thread or so on the board for about the past 18 months...
1. the most important thing when picking an oil is: does it meet the manufacturer's specifications and viscosity requirements for your engine?
2. If yes, then nearly every oil is going to produce somewhat similar results and service lifetime.
3. If you are starting from scratch, change the oil with your "new" oil, and run it for mfr. recommended mileage or OLM, then do a UOA.
4. Pay attention to the viscosity and TBN, and if there are any recommendations from the lab.
5. If UOA viscosity is within range for the grade of oil, and the TBN is above 1.5-2.0, this oil most assuredly will protect your engine as well as any other certified oil you can get your hands on at the mileage you went.
Chasing wear metals on a UOA by swapping oils is a fool's errand after you've completed the five steps above. Buy whatever your heart desires, but unless you have a purpose-built race engine, all you need to do is pick an oil within the viscosity grade and certifications your OEM recommends and change it at a decent frequency, and your engine will never know the difference. Excellent air filtration, without leakage, is literally the best bet to obtain great wear metal results on UOAs (for your engine family)... NOT any "magic" engine oil itself.
When an oil manufacturer says "racing" or "not intended for street use" they are pretty clearly telling you it's not a good idea to try to use that oil in your daily driver, because the chemistry is most likely not designed to deal with long OCIs, lots of short tripping, etc. etc. Can you do it without negative results? Probably. But is it worth the cost of a rebuild if it doesn't sufficiently protect the engine? Not in my world.