TC-W3 Oil add to fuel in vehicle

[ChrisD46]

*I originally started with the 640:1 TC-W3 however my gas mileage went down by a couple MPG . I then started backing off of the TC-W3 until my gas mileage went above what I normally got by about 1 to 2 MPG . That ratio happened to be about 1280:1 ratio of TC-W3 to gas . Even though it is not the "standard" 640:1 ratio , I have to believe there is still a lubrication benefit to the fuel system, spark plugs , upper cylinder , etc.
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by demarpaint
When I did it I added at the gas station then pumped the gas. I know by the fuel gauge if I need 10 or 15 gallons of fuel. So I'd add either 2 ounces or 3 and pump to a round $ figure ~ 10 or 15 gallons of gas. I might have been a hair over or under on the mix.

I also do it this way. I purchased several 4oz plastic bottles and put 3oz of TC-W3 in each of them, when my fuel gauge reaches 1/4 (21 gal gas tank) I dump the oil in and then gas-up (approx. 15 gallons). IMO this probably mixes the oil with the gas better.
I have been using TC-W3 for about 9 years, soon after reading about it in the LS1 forum https://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/
I was initially skeptical, but several things soon made me a believer... my gas mileage improved by about 5%, the slight buzzing noise I heard from the fuel pump went away, the injector ticking quieted down, and the engine ran (and still runs) very smooth and quiet. It has been stated that it also helps to counteract the negative affects of E10. The 5% gas mileage improvement doesn't sound like much, but it does pay for the TC-W3, and then some.
My Toyota is now 14 years old and has over 170k miles on it and it still has the original cat, so I don't think that the TC-W3 has had any negative impact on it's life span. Also, I have not had to replace any injectors, O2 sensors, valves, seals, the fuel pump, or any other fuel system or emission system component.
I buy the cheapest dino TC-W3, usually SuperTech. I did try synthetic TC-W3 for a few months, but the more expensive oil doesn't appear to do any better than the cheaper oil.
In the LS1 forum there is universal agreement that mixing 1 oz of oil to 5 gal of gas is the ratio that provides the maximum benefits, mixing half this amount of oil will not likely provide any noticeable benefits. StevieC, if you mix at this ratio, given the number of miles that you drive, you should be able to report back on any noticeable (positive or negative) benefits in fairly short order.

 

[StevieC]

I saw an old thread where a member (Audijunkie ?) said to dose at 250:1 initially and then run at 500:1 on successive tanks so this is what I did to test it.

I got horrible fuel economy on the 250:1 and then backed it off to 500:1 and the fuel economy increases so far have been excellent. I'm reserving posting the numbers just yet because I want to repeat some of the same driving pattern to compare the tanks economy and zero in on the final dilution that works best for me, but right now it looks pretty amazing. I guess the key was overdosing at first and then dialing back.

To get to 500:1 I'm adding 5 1/2 (5.41) ounces to 20 gallons. But I added 11oz initially to get to the 250:1 for the initial dosing which supposedly wets down the system first and then dial it back to the best mileage numbers.

Why this seems to work is beyond me but one thing is for sure I'm not giving it up now. Talk about not being able to feel the engine running like the engine stalled at the lights when you come off the highway.

 

[StevieC]

Something I noticed yesterday, it's idling slower. It usually floats between 625-650 RPM normally and now it's idling at 550-600. I wouldn't have believed it but I verified it with my scangauge for the actual number. It didn't do this with the leaner ratio of TCW3, just with the 5 1/2oz added to 20 galllons (500:1). Mileage continues to get better still. I've tried to keep it as similar driving and similar speed on the highway as possible for accurate comparison.

Anyone with a PentaStar I would highly reccomend doing the 250:1 initially and then backing off to 500:1 thereafter. You will get horrible mileage out of the 250:1 tank.
I found it has taken a couple of tanks for the mileage gains to show up really well once using 500:1 but the improved idle happens as soon as you start the 500:1 ratio.

I'm using HP Injector TCW3 oil from Amsoil currently but plan to try Saber Pro and other shelf-brands to what is the cheapest that will give me these results.

I also have been monitoring my tailpipe and haven't seen any carbon rings. It's still clean.

 

[Shannow]

Just in case it gets too good, fit an overflow catch tank to your fuel filler.

When it starts generating it's own gas, you don't want to spill it.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by Shannow
Just in case it gets too good, fit an overflow catch tank to your fuel filler.

When it starts generating it's own gas, you don't want to spill it.

Did I say it was generating fuel? No I said it improved economy. Maybe it atomizes better who knows but there is a definite increase and it's why I suggested others with a PentaStar give it a shot. Would I do that if I was B.S.ing?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted by StevieC
Something I noticed yesterday, it's idling slower. It usually floats between 625-650 RPM normally and now it's idling at 550-600. I wouldn't have believed it but I verified it with my scangauge for the actual number. It didn't do this with the leaner ratio of TCW3, just with the 5 1/2oz added to 20 galllons (500:1). ]


Typically idle is a set RPM target in the PCM, which the IAC or TB are manipulated to hit, this is why idle only flutters when the A/C compressor comes on, rather than dropping, like it used to do on the old carb'd vehicles. Ergo, I wouldn't ascribe any part of that behaviour to your dosing. What is likely taking place is that an input has changed that has resulted in the target idle changing as well, perhaps ACT or ECT.

 

[StevieC]

I know it makes no sense but it's happening and why I haven't figured out yet. Just seems to be Hot idle although cold idle is hard to gauge because it's never exactly the same.

 

[Shannow]

StevieC, the unusual and quite massive changes that you keep observing with different lubricants in both the sump and the fuel, in a computer controlled vehicle lead me to believe that either you have some sort of confirmation bias going on...or need urgently to seek the services of a priest and holy water.

It's well known psychologically that people who are expecting improved outcomes subtly and unconsciously change their behaviours....there's a 10% difference in fuel economy between myself and my wife...around town, and on the road, that we've observed over the last 30 years....I always get better...and that's driving style.

And if it IS improved atomosation (PIB additives were used in diesels to change atomisation pattern), then why isn't the ECU trimming it back like it was supposed to do.

I'd suggest not going to the drive-in until you understand the behaviours better.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted by StevieC
I know it makes no sense but it's happening and why I haven't figured out yet. Just seems to be Hot idle although cold idle is hard to gauge because it's never exactly the same.


I doubt there's anything to "figure out". One of the parameters that dictates idle RPM has changed, perhaps due to the weather, and in turn, idle has been slightly modified as a result.

 

[StevieC]

Mixed highway and city. Before this it was getting 11.8 on the same route.

This is exceptional for a van with a 3.6L and a 6 speed transmission. Especially the PentaStar which isn't known to be good on gas.

The picture below showing 10L/100km = 23.52mpg,
Before I changed to the 5.41oz on a full fill I was using 2oz and I was getting about 11.8L/100km, prior to that I was at 12.4L/100km albeit the temperature changed slightly in between but still excellent.

 

[dblshock]

Originally Posted by zorobabel
For those that have used TC-W3 for 7 years, did you have any catalytic converter trouble?




no, no cat issues.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by Shannow
StevieC, the unusual and quite massive changes that you keep observing with different lubricants in both the sump and the fuel, in a computer controlled vehicle lead me to believe that either you have some sort of confirmation bias going on...or need urgently to seek the services of a priest and holy water.

It's well known psychologically that people who are expecting improved outcomes subtly and unconsciously change their behaviours....there's a 10% difference in fuel economy between myself and my wife...around town, and on the road, that we've observed over the last 30 years....I always get better...and that's driving style.

And if it IS improved atomosation (PIB additives were used in diesels to change atomisation pattern), then why isn't the ECU trimming it back like it was supposed to do.

I'd suggest not going to the drive-in until you understand the behaviours better.

Whatever

 

[dblshock]

Add TC-W3 to these and carry the box in your trunk...you'll get real good at it

 

[StevieC]

I actually bought the screw on nozzle for my Amsoil jug because it was cheap and I have a graduated squeeze bottle I can portion from the gallon into before pouring into the gas tank. Works good but thanks.

Sta-bil here is over priced and I don't have a use for it before using the empty bottle, and I don't plan on a US shopping run for a little while anyway.

 

[dblshock]

...and this was after the valve lash was run out of adjustment cause a soft cam 10yrs. on TC-W3

 

[StevieC]

Yeah I remember this picture... It's impressive.

When the PentaStar is due for a tune-up I'll boroscope the cylinders and take some pictures and I can see the valves as the plenum has to come off and you can see them quite easily.

 

[krismoriah72]

Originally Posted by StevieC
Yeah I remember this picture... It's impressive.

When the PentaStar is due for a tune-up I'll boroscope the cylinders and take some pictures and I can see the valves as the plenum has to come off and you can see them quite easily.



I would love for someone to do a before and after boroscope of TCW3 or even better JASO FD. (Says its much higher detergency)

 

[DoubleWasp]

Wanted to add: Anyone who ends up with a dirty tail pipe from TCW3 might want to consider that soot is coming from your engine's insides, and not from the TCW3. It will release carbon from the engine, and it will end up on your tail pipe.

Also, stick with TCW3. 2SO for air cooled engines is meant for a hotter environment. It may not burn as clean and leave deposits.

 

[Denkun]

I've been using tc-w3 for a little over a year now in both my vehicles, a 09 corolla and 15 rx 350 as well as an old snowblower. After reading through this thread I decided to remove the spark plug from my snowblower and have a look at the piston. The plug was very dirty, completely black, but suprisingly I was able to easily wipe it clean. The pistons were perfectly clean as well not a spot of carbon I was amazed. The snowblower ran smoove with no visible smoke on a heavy dose of of 10 oz per gallon. I then removed a plug from my corolla after being installed for 20k miles and then one year of tc-w3 at 5oz-per gallon. The plug was was perfectly clean looked barely used. Before tc-w3 the pistons were black with carbon and now are a light brown.

 

[BigShug681]

Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
Wanted to add: Anyone who ends up with a dirty tail pipe from TCW3 might want to consider that soot is coming from your engine's insides, and not from the TCW3. It will release carbon from the engine, and it will end up on your tail pipe.

Also, stick with TCW3. 2SO for air cooled engines is meant for a hotter environment. It may not burn as clean and leave deposits.


A little off topic but I used some AMSOIL Power Foam on a garden tiller that was running rough and after I finished the can on it the muffler was black like my diesels exhaust, I was curious as to why but what you said probably applies and it's just all the carbon from the engine