Caterham Blend Revisited: Best Modern Synthetic Oil In GDI Engines ?

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ChrisD46

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Based on the Caterham Blend oil (50% M1 0W20 + 50% M1 0W40 = 0W30 synthetic oil with enhanced properties) , I am now researching if this might be the "holy grail" of synthetic oil for GDI turbo / non - turbo engines ? ... In the Hyundai line the non - turbo 2.4L would get the standard Caterham 50 - 50 blend of M1 0W20 & M1 0W40 while the 2.0 turbo GDI engine would get a 60 - 40 blend of 0W40 (60%) and 0W20 (40%) ... In a GDI engine with it's inherent challenges I would run these blends in the 5,000 ~ 7,500 mile range in mixed driving conditions . I'll go out on a limb and say with the recent Hyundai 2.4L GDI connecting rod bearings issues , the Caterham blend might offer better start up protection all the way through better protection through operating temps ... *Anyone given thought to experimenting with the Caterham blend in GDI engines ?

Please Note : To date Hyundai does not list a 0W oil in their owners manual - conversely , the Caterham blend is a high quality oil that would exceed any oil that Hyundai would approve .
 
Ioniq and Niro recommend 0W-20 in their manuals. So Hyundai/Kia aren't averse to that viscosity.

As to your belief that any home brew may be the "holy grail", if it makes you feel better, go for it. I think you my be overthinking this entire Theta II situation. Are you unhappy with the car. Have you thought about trading it in? It may relieve the anxiety a bit.
 
I've tried dumbbell blends and never liked them. I've never tried the Caterham blend.

I think there are UOA of some.

But High NOACK ( not that I care about NOACK)

And Questionalble stay in grade performance.

Look for the UOA. they would be a good data point for further discussion. Me? Im stuck with VAG 508/509 done at the dealer. Cant do my oil changers anymore
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
.Caterham Blend Revisited: Best Modern Synthetic Oil In GDI Engines ?


In relations to 5W30 users......
Mobil-1 EP
Castrol Edge Black
Valvoline Advanced
Pennzoil Platinum

I must see SN Plus and Dexos1Gen2 on the label. Otherwise, I won't buy it. (Example: Castrol Edge EP. Labels says SN Plus, but not Dexos1/Ge2. So it never reaches the inside of my grocery basket at Walmart.

Honorable Mention
Castrol Magnatec
Quaker State Ultimate Durability
No boutique oils mentioned here in my post and no store-name brands like Supertech, NAPA.....etc..
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Based on the Caterham Blend oil (50% M1 0W20 + 50% M1 0W40 = 0W30 synthetic oil with enhanced properties) , I am now researching if this might be the "holy grail" of synthetic oil for GDI turbo / non - turbo engines ? ... In the Hyundai line the non - turbo 2.4L would get the standard Caterham 50 - 50 blend of M1 0W20 & M1 0W40 while the 2.0 turbo GDI engine would get a 60 - 40 blend of 0W40 (60%) and 0W20 (40%) ... In a GDI engine with it's inherent challenges I would run these blends in the 5,000 ~ 7,500 mile range in mixed driving conditions . I'll go out on a limb and say with the recent Hyundai 2.4L GDI connecting rod bearings issues , the Caterham blend might offer better start up protection all the way through better protection through operating temps ... *Anyone given thought to experimenting with the Caterham blend in GDI engines ?

Please Note : To date Hyundai does not list a 0W oil in their owners manual - conversely , the Caterham blend is a high quality oil that would exceed any oil that Hyundai would approve .

What have you been smoking?
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Based on the Caterham Blend oil (50% M1 0W20 + 50% M1 0W40 = 0W30 synthetic oil with enhanced properties) , I am now researching if this might be the "holy grail" of synthetic oil for GDI turbo / non - turbo engines ? ... In the Hyundai line the non - turbo 2.4L would get the standard Caterham 50 - 50 blend of M1 0W20 & M1 0W40 while the 2.0 turbo GDI engine would get a 60 - 40 blend of 0W40 (60%) and 0W20 (40%) ... In a GDI engine with it's inherent challenges I would run these blends in the 5,000 ~ 7,500 mile range in mixed driving conditions . I'll go out on a limb and say with the recent Hyundai 2.4L GDI connecting rod bearings issues , the Caterham blend might offer better start up protection all the way through better protection through operating temps ... *Anyone given thought to experimenting with the Caterham blend in GDI engines ?

Please Note : To date Hyundai does not list a 0W oil in their owners manual - conversely , the Caterham blend is a high quality oil that would exceed any oil that Hyundai would approve .

My bet is XOM would tell you the result you think you'll get differs from the "enhanced properties" you expect. While the two will mix, the desired outcome is anyone's guess. Shannow and other respected members have written about this numerous times here, and advise against it.
 
If you feel like it's the right way to service your vehicle - go for it. I'm more concerned with all the news about kia/Hyundai vehicles go on fire while driving.
 
Originally Posted by SlavaB
If you feel like it's the right way to service your vehicle - go for it. I'm more concerned with all the news about kia/Hyundai vehicles go on fire while driving.



The key word in that recall is potential. The news that these cars are catching on fire in droves is Internet exaggeration.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by SlavaB
If you feel like it's the right way to service your vehicle - go for it. I'm more concerned with all the news about kia/Hyundai vehicles go on fire while driving.



The key word in that recall is potential. The news that these cars are catching on fire in droves is Internet exaggeration.

I really really really hope so.
 
Originally Posted by SlavaB
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by SlavaB
If you feel like it's the right way to service your vehicle - go for it. I'm more concerned with all the news about kia/Hyundai vehicles go on fire while driving.



The key word in that recall is potential. The news that these cars are catching on fire in droves is Internet exaggeration.

I really really really hope so.




I wouldn't worry. As you know, Kia and Hyundai are very popular in these parts. I seen a lot of new Sportages cruising around.

I'd be more worried of getting into a wreck on I-5 at the Nalley Valley. Another one this morning
 
M1 0w40 is very high in calcium, thus the resulting blend would be much higher in calcium than current oils specifically blended to combat LSPI.

I have messed with home brews a good bit in the past, "liked" some of them, but even with the Widman calculator you really don't know what you are getting. Guesstimation at best.
 
Droves of fire is a bit of an overstatement. Don't want to look it up, but someone on the Soul board calculated that those fires are roughly at the same ratio as plane crashes (now watch my car light up).

Wasn't the most recent Hyun-Kia fire recall because dealerships doing the original recall didn't replace a fittings kit and the fuel pump broke loose and became a flame thrower shooting gas on the exhaust manifold?

This means nothing, but I have had absolutely no oil usage for 5K in any of my oil changes-with one exception, the original (CarQuestAmalie?--at least that was the sticker) oil change from Hertz, 5-20 MaxLife, 5-30 VWB. Only when the oil change place got my ia Maxlife 5-20 fill a half quart low and I threw in a half quart of Harvest King (Citgo) 5-30. Burned a half quart in 5000 miles. Not enough to worry me, but probably enough to dissuade me from oil mixing. Of course, maybe the VWB not showing any oil usage was because of fuel in the crankcase. All I know is I had no trouble with my previous 1.6 Rio with 5K OCI's and conventional (really 50% GIII) oil.

Plan on restricting myself to SN+ in the future and 5000 OCI, after I run this SuperTech group III for 6K. Probably VWB $10 oil change specials in 5w30. (Repeating the matra that I'm a geezer and live in a condo that doesn't allow working on cars or I'd go down and buy ST or another cheap group III and change my own).

I think the first response to the OP included "over thinking"-- that phrase hit me as soon as I read the initial post.

OTOH-- I'm sure the Caterham blend would work just fine. As would any good quality 5-20 or 5-30.
 
Last edited:
I agree on the overthinking. With today's oils being so good I would just run with a 5w30 from any major brand that is SN+ and d1G2 certified. You cannot go wrong with that imo.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
I agree on the overthinking. With today's oils being so good I would just run with a 5w30 from any major brand that is SN+ and d1G2 certified. You cannot go wrong with that imo.

And somebody who really wants a 0W30 can run M1 AFE, which is d1G2 now (not sure about SN+ offhand, don't see why it wouldn't be). Last time I looked, it was the only 0W30 on the d1G2 list.
To my mind, using any kind of mix including M1 0W40 with its mega calcium dose is a bad idea in a DIT engine...
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
I agree on the overthinking. With today's oils being so good I would just run with a 5w30 from any major brand that is SN+ and d1G2 certified. You cannot go wrong with that imo.


Let's put this in perspective.

Board members represent .1% of general public who obsess with motor oil. I do it, because it's a change from politics or sports and so I can BS service writers.

OP represents .01% of super obsessors.

The rest of the public is split between people who look at their owners manuals and do more or less what they recommend, and people who never change their oil, run dry, buy SA oil at c-stores, etc.

I bought a 1988 Ford Festiva, way below book, that fell into that later group. First of five Hyun-Kia's that I've had good luck with-- or maybe it my first and last Mazda. Depends on how you define it.

IIRC the original owner put about 28000 on the car in one year. I'm sure the oil was never changed. Never did get it cleaned up, but I ran that car up until 110,000 miles with no incidents at which time the engine and clutch gave up the ghost. Replaced the engine and transmission and new clutch from a junk yard for about $600. Drove the car for another 10,000 miles and gave it to my teenage daughter who wrecked the new clutch. Gave it to a charity and it was still going two years later with probably close to 200k.

Engines are a lot more complex compared with thirty years ago, but oils are a lot better. We worry about things the general public could care less about.
 
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by PimTac
I agree on the overthinking. With today's oils being so good I would just run with a 5w30 from any major brand that is SN+ and d1G2 certified. You cannot go wrong with that imo.


Let's put this in perspective.

Board members represent .1% of general public who obsess with motor oil. I do it, because it's a change from politics or sports and so I can BS service writers.

OP represents .01% of super obsessors.

The rest of the public is split between people who look at their owners manuals and do more or less what they recommend, and people who never change their oil, run dry, buy SA oil at c-stores, etc.

I bought a 1988 Ford Festiva, way below book, that fell into that later group. First of five Hyun-Kia's that I've had good luck with-- or maybe it my first and last Mazda. Depends on how you define it.

IIRC the original owner put about 28000 on the car in one year. I'm sure the oil was never changed. Never did get it cleaned up, but I ran that car up until 110,000 miles with no incidents at which time the engine and clutch gave up the ghost. Replaced the engine and transmission and new clutch from a junk yard for about $600. Drove the car for another 10,000 miles and gave it to my teenage daughter who wrecked the new clutch. Gave it to a charity and it was still going two years later with probably close to 200k.

Engines are a lot more complex compared with thirty years ago, but oils are a lot better. We worry about things the general public could care less about.




Very true and well stated.
 
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