New Toyota Tacoma oil recommentation

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Originally Posted by sdude2k2000
^^^yep. That's why I stopped engaging him. Didn't want to mess with the OP's thread anymore. Nobody said 0w20 won't work just fine... just tried to say other grades will work too (possibly better by Toyota's own admission) and NONE will void warranty.


^^Yup^^
The whole warranty thing is a bunch of cr@p too....no manufacturer is going to turn down a warranty claim based on oil weight. Like they are really going to send it out for a UOA and even if they did, what are they going to do if it shows a viscosity of one grade higher? Nothing.
The warranty comments from some in here are so freaking whacked out its laughable and plain stupid.
 
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If you have a warranty issue, and it's somehow oil related. You're going to be asked to show receipts for oil changes. If all the receipts show you bought 5w30, easy out for the dealer. So don't think you are totally safe running a non-specced oil weight.

Is it unlikely you'll have an issue? Yes. Impossible? Absolutely not.
 
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by sdude2k2000
^^^yep. That's why I stopped engaging him. Didn't want to mess with the OP's thread anymore. Nobody said 0w20 won't work just fine... just tried to say other grades will work too (possibly better by Toyota's own admission) and NONE will void warranty.


^^Yup^^
The whole warranty thing is a bunch of cr@p too....no manufacturer is going to turn down a warranty claim based on oil weight. Like they are really going to send it out for a UOA and even if they did, what are they going to do if it shows a viscosity of one grade higher? Nothing.
The warranty comments from some in here are so freaking whacked out its laughable and plain stupid.



This just isn't true anymore. Claims on big ticket items are no longer approved by the dealer. The dealer has to follow all directives which includes trouble shooting from Corp. As stated, receipts must be shown for any internal engine repairs. Must show the correct spec and proper certifications. The hemi engine has dropped lifters and wiped out a cam lobe. If you don't have the proper receipts, you won't be covered by warranty.
 
warranty claims are made to the manufacturer, the dealer has no reason to want to deny the work, it is a profit center. As has already been mentioned the owners manual allows for higher viscosities, so in fact there is no "wrong" viscosity unless you decide to run 0w16. They just will make sure it was not neglected as a cause of failure.

Originally Posted by JoelB
If you have a warranty issue, and it's somehow oil related. You're going to be asked to show receipts for oil changes. If all the receipts show you bought 5w30, easy out for the dealer. So don't think you are totally safe running a non-specced oil weight.

Is it unlikely you'll have an issue? Yes. Impossible? Absolutely not.
 
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Originally Posted by hemitruck
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by sdude2k2000
^^^yep. That's why I stopped engaging him. Didn't want to mess with the OP's thread anymore. Nobody said 0w20 won't work just fine... just tried to say other grades will work too (possibly better by Toyota's own admission) and NONE will void warranty.


^^Yup^^
The whole warranty thing is a bunch of cr@p too....no manufacturer is going to turn down a warranty claim based on oil weight. Like they are really going to send it out for a UOA and even if they did, what are they going to do if it shows a viscosity of one grade higher? Nothing.
The warranty comments from some in here are so freaking whacked out its laughable and plain stupid.



This just isn't true anymore. Claims on big ticket items are no longer approved by the dealer. The dealer has to follow all directives which includes trouble shooting from Corp. As stated, receipts must be shown for any internal engine repairs. Must show the correct spec and proper certifications. The hemi engine has dropped lifters and wiped out a cam lobe. If you don't have the proper receipts, you won't be covered by warranty.

Hemitruck is absolutely correct. Alarmguy is incorrect. Sometimes the carmakers will factor in good-will in a close call case and cover abuse cases, but they will deny warranty claims in clear-cut abuse and neglect situations, and they will do so without hesitation. We saw one one such case play out right here on BITOG a dozen or so years ago with an owner who had a Ford V-10 seize up on them. Toyota played the game with early "victims" of their two sludge-prone engines back in the early 2000s.

There's just no way that any car maker, foreign or domestic, is going to give away a "free" engine to a customer who has killed the original through obvious abuse and/or neglect.

The good news, of course, is that it's absurdly easy to steer clear of nightmares like this. Change oil on time, and if you do it yourself, just take a picture of the receipts and save them in some reliable form of storage. Good to go.
 
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Salt should be taken when comparing a temperamental hemi engine to an engine maker that has a broader tolerance of specifications and mentions the allowance for variance in the owners manual. .
Originally Posted by ekpolk
Originally Posted by hemitruck
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by sdude2k2000
^^^yep. That's why I stopped engaging him. Didn't want to mess with the OP's thread anymore. Nobody said 0w20 won't work just fine... just tried to say other grades will work too (possibly better by Toyota's own admission) and NONE will void warranty.


^^Yup^^
The whole warranty thing is a bunch of cr@p too....no manufacturer is going to turn down a warranty claim based on oil weight. Like they are really going to send it out for a UOA and even if they did, what are they going to do if it shows a viscosity of one grade higher? Nothing.
The warranty comments from some in here are so freaking whacked out its laughable and plain stupid.



This just isn't true anymore. Claims on big ticket items are no longer approved by the dealer. The dealer has to follow all directives which includes trouble shooting from Corp. As stated, receipts must be shown for any internal engine repairs. Must show the correct spec and proper certifications. The hemi engine has dropped lifters and wiped out a cam lobe. If you don't have the proper receipts, you won't be covered by warranty.

Hemitruck is absolutely correct. Alarmguy is incorrect. Sometimes the carmakers will factor in good-will in a close call case and cover abuse cases, but they will deny warranty claims in clear-cut abuse and neglect situations, and they will do so without hesitation. We saw one one such case play out right here on BITOG a dozen or so years ago with an owner who had a Ford V-10 seize up on them. Toyota played the game with early "victims" of their two sludge-prone engines back in the early 2000s.

There's just no way that any car maker, foreign or domestic, is going to give away a "free" engine to a customer who has killed the original through obvious abuse and/or neglect.

The good news, of course, is that it's absurdly easy to steer clear of nightmares like this. Change oil on time, and if you do it yourself, just take a picture of the receipts and save them in some reliable form of storage. Good to go.
 
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
warranty claims are made to the manufacturer, the dealer has no reason to want to deny the work, it is a profit center. As has already been mentioned the owners manual allows for higher viscosities, so in fact there is no "wrong" viscosity unless you decide to run 0w16. They just will make sure it was not neglected as a cause of failure.

Originally Posted by JoelB
If you have a warranty issue, and it's somehow oil related. You're going to be asked to show receipts for oil changes. If all the receipts show you bought 5w30, easy out for the dealer. So don't think you are totally safe running a non-specced oil weight.

Is it unlikely you'll have an issue? Yes. Impossible? Absolutely not.



Some manufactures have a matrix where new car holdback and other incentives are tied to warranty claims, the lower the overall warranty claims for the dealership, the higher the profitability of new car sales. I've experienced working at dealerships, NPR had a story about Ford during the recession and how they were able to hold down warranty claims with this process.
 
Originally Posted by sdude2k2000
Originally Posted by ad244
sdude2k2000 said:
ad244 said:
...

Actually it says:
If SAE 0W-20 is not available,
SAE 5W-20 oil may be used.
However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.


Exactly. I'm aware of what it says, but did you read above and below what you quoted? CAFE requires manufacturers to specify, advocate, and recommend the oil that achieved the MPG result... BUT - if you keep reading on the same page in the owners manual that you found that quote on - you'll find the excerpt that I quoted. Plus - directly above your quote also says "Recommended Oil = 0w20". See the point? Legal mumbo-jumbo... nothing more. It's Toyota's way of saying "we have to recommend this oil... and be specific with its grade... BUUUUUUT other oils may be better suited depending on the circumstance, BUUUUUT we can't officially recommend them." If 0w20 was actually required for all purposes - it would simply say "required oil = 0w20". Period.

And to be fair - I'm in no way advocating for a thicker oil to be used... 0w20 works perfectly fine for plenty of folks. I just get tired of hearing "warranty will fail if you use anything other than 0w20"... because in this case it's simply not true.


So, basically you just completely misrepresent the manual, and I mean lie, to fit what you want to believe...
 
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by sdude2k2000
^^^yep. That's why I stopped engaging him. Didn't want to mess with the OP's thread anymore. Nobody said 0w20 won't work just fine... just tried to say other grades will work too (possibly better by Toyota's own admission) and NONE will void warranty.


^^Yup^^
The whole warranty thing is a bunch of cr@p too....no manufacturer is going to turn down a warranty claim based on oil weight. Like they are really going to send it out for a UOA and even if they did, what are they going to do if it shows a viscosity of one grade higher? Nothing.
The warranty comments from some in here are so freaking whacked out its laughable and plain stupid.


Probably not, but I am aware of cases where they have done exactly that (check Kia/Hyundai and their 100K powertrain. Miss the timing belt by a couple hundred miles and you're out!). But admittedly the chances are lower where the oil viscosity isn't that far off, but it's easy for someone that doesn't have a warranty and no skin in the game to say that...
 
The part I bolded and highlighted tells the tale about using thicker oils. If Toyota tried to make a stink about "out of spec oil grade" (provided it's thicker and not thinner), all one has to do is say "I do a lot of high speed freeway driving - and the manual said it may be better suited. So I used it." At that point if they're really dumb enough to try to deny a repair (which some service departments probably are), then a quick call to Toyota corporate would solve the issue. There's no way in heck Toyota would deny a warranty claim based on someone using 5w30 -vs- 0w20 -vs- 10w30 -vs- 0w40... they'd get sued in a hurry. If 0w20 was the only oil allowed - no questions asked - they'd say something more like "REQUIRED VISCOSITY = 0w20"... and that'd be it.

Quote
Engine oil selection
"Toyota Genuine Motor Oil" is used in your Toyota vehicle. Use Toyota approved "Toyota Genuine Motor Oil" or equivalent to satisfy the following grade and viscosity.

Oil grade: ILSAC GF-5 multigrade engine oil

Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20

SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.
If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.

Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):

• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows cold
startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier starting
of the engine in cold weather.

• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the
oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.
 
Since I've already commented on the substance of the thread, I'm reluctant to put on the Moderator hat now, but I'm going to. There are some comments that are getting ugly and personal. Please keep it on point and professional, or it'll have to be locked down. Having now said this, I'll stay out of the discussion. Thanks all.
 
Any thread on the internet these "warranty" oil issues get out of whack but no one ever shows proof.
We are not talking abuse, we are not talking neglect, we are not talking about anything except one thing.

That is the way this has started and that is;

I am saying that No warranty will be denied if you are using an oil that is one grade above what is recommended.
Meaning if you are using a 5w30 instead of a 0w20-5w20
No one is going to check and if they do, one grade higher will not raise ANY red flags, in case you dont know, most oil changes in the USA are done at a service center and you can be sure, many times the wrong weight.

Furthermore you do not have to have a receipt, sure, you should hold onto them if you can, but everyone knows receipts gets lost.
Remember we are NOT talking neglect we are only talking about using an oil one grade higher. No manufacturer would bother anyone about this. For goodness sakes in most every case the same engine outside the USA has higher weight recommendations as it is and it makes no difference what so ever what weight oil when a warranty issue comes up..
 
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None of what you are saying is true. The manual states what it states, there isn't some implied leeway on that. The dealer isn't just going to take your word for it that you've changed your oil for x amount of miles. You're living in a fantasy world if you really believe that.
 
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