like the oem rims so bought a second refurbished set for UHP summer tires but now the finish went south so I'm planning to plasti dip them...question I'm having is without removing the tires to save $100 they show jamming playing cards into the rim/tire joint to prevent overspray on the tire but won't that cause peeling when the card is removed? seems it would.
Plasti Diping my OEM rims question
- Thread starter dblshock
- Start date
- Status
Just put a heavy layer of tire shine on the tires before you spray.
Tire shine is a good idea but I didn't have any problem when I did it a few years ago without it. Any edge/gap/break and plastidip peels off with ease. Just be sure you're committed to doing plastidip every few years. Kind of a pain. I did my tundras grille, bumpers, tires, badges and they all need to be redone
ya the rim lip is the fancy beveled type so the paint edge has to adhere because a lot is visable... id be afraid of leaving tire shine on the rim preventing a bond.
I did a set of Tacoma rims for my T4R ,,,,third snow season just winding down they look great, used Luxury Metal line with clear...impressive looks and durability.
I did a set of Tacoma rims for my T4R ,,,,third snow season just winding down they look great, used Luxury Metal line with clear...impressive looks and durability.
Plasti dip is annoying, you cant go to the machine washes or any place with a pressure washer bc it peels it right off. We have a customer who pays us almost every year to re spray them on his Cayman, such a waste of money IMO.
Quote
like the oem rims so bought a second refurbished set for UHP summer tires but now the finish went south so I'm planning to plasti dip them...question I'm having is without removing the tires to save $100 they show jamming playing cards into the rim/tire joint to prevent overspray on the tire but won't that cause peeling when the card is removed? seems it would.
I've done this before, it's not as big a deal as you think. Carefully remove the playing cards while the plastidip is still wet, that's one way to avoid this. Realistically you won't get that much spray where the wheel and cards contact anyway due to the angle, so this is usually a non-issue by itself. Where they contact is usually at the very bottom of the lip close to the bead (which you can't see) the sides of the lip are the parts you do see which will get hit. Due to the angle the coverage will not be equal so you can get a heavy coat on the sides of the lip, without necessarily having a heavy coat at the contact point that you're worried about.
My tips are:
1. Make sure the can is warm. If they're so much as even a little cold (like 50f cold, not even freezing), you'll get an uneven spray that results in an ugly dimpled/blotchy finish because of how viscous this stuff is. The best way to visualize it is that it has to be treated more seriously than paint in a can due to the viscosity. I recommend warming the can in a bucket of hot water so it becomes a very fine mist for even coverage.
2. Make sure you make a really thick coat for protection and so that it's easier to peel. If you make a thin coat it's going to be really hard for you to peel it later on because it's going to constantly tear into a million small pieces, where as a thick coat comes off in fewer pieces.
like the oem rims so bought a second refurbished set for UHP summer tires but now the finish went south so I'm planning to plasti dip them...question I'm having is without removing the tires to save $100 they show jamming playing cards into the rim/tire joint to prevent overspray on the tire but won't that cause peeling when the card is removed? seems it would.
I've done this before, it's not as big a deal as you think. Carefully remove the playing cards while the plastidip is still wet, that's one way to avoid this. Realistically you won't get that much spray where the wheel and cards contact anyway due to the angle, so this is usually a non-issue by itself. Where they contact is usually at the very bottom of the lip close to the bead (which you can't see) the sides of the lip are the parts you do see which will get hit. Due to the angle the coverage will not be equal so you can get a heavy coat on the sides of the lip, without necessarily having a heavy coat at the contact point that you're worried about.
My tips are:
1. Make sure the can is warm. If they're so much as even a little cold (like 50f cold, not even freezing), you'll get an uneven spray that results in an ugly dimpled/blotchy finish because of how viscous this stuff is. The best way to visualize it is that it has to be treated more seriously than paint in a can due to the viscosity. I recommend warming the can in a bucket of hot water so it becomes a very fine mist for even coverage.
2. Make sure you make a really thick coat for protection and so that it's easier to peel. If you make a thin coat it's going to be really hard for you to peel it later on because it's going to constantly tear into a million small pieces, where as a thick coat comes off in fewer pieces.
Originally Posted by NoNameJoe
Quote
like the oem rims so bought a second refurbished set for UHP summer tires but now the finish went south so I'm planning to plasti dip them...question I'm having is without removing the tires to save $100 they show jamming playing cards into the rim/tire joint to prevent overspray on the tire but won't that cause peeling when the card is removed? seems it would.
I've done this before, it's not as big a deal as you think. Carefully remove the playing cards while the plastidip is still wet, that's one way to avoid this. Realistically you won't get that much spray where the wheel and cards contact anyway due to the angle, so this is usually a non-issue by itself. Where they contact is usually at the very bottom of the lip close to the bead (which you can't see) the sides of the lip are the parts you do see which will get hit. Due to the angle the coverage will not be equal so you can get a heavy coat on the sides of the lip, without necessarily having a heavy coat at the contact point that you're worried about.
My tips are:
1. Make sure the can is warm. If they're so much as even a little cold (like 50f cold, not even freezing), you'll get an uneven spray that results in an ugly dimpled/blotchy finish because of how viscous this stuff is. The best way to visualize it is that it has to be treated more seriously than paint in a can due to the viscosity. I recommend warming the can in a bucket of hot water so it becomes a very fine mist for even coverage.
2. Make sure you make a really thick coat for protection and so that it's easier to peel. If you make a thin coat it's going to be really hard for you to peel it later on because it's going to constantly tear into a million small pieces, where as a thick coat comes off in fewer pieces.
was hoping to hear that...thx
Quote
like the oem rims so bought a second refurbished set for UHP summer tires but now the finish went south so I'm planning to plasti dip them...question I'm having is without removing the tires to save $100 they show jamming playing cards into the rim/tire joint to prevent overspray on the tire but won't that cause peeling when the card is removed? seems it would.
I've done this before, it's not as big a deal as you think. Carefully remove the playing cards while the plastidip is still wet, that's one way to avoid this. Realistically you won't get that much spray where the wheel and cards contact anyway due to the angle, so this is usually a non-issue by itself. Where they contact is usually at the very bottom of the lip close to the bead (which you can't see) the sides of the lip are the parts you do see which will get hit. Due to the angle the coverage will not be equal so you can get a heavy coat on the sides of the lip, without necessarily having a heavy coat at the contact point that you're worried about.
My tips are:
1. Make sure the can is warm. If they're so much as even a little cold (like 50f cold, not even freezing), you'll get an uneven spray that results in an ugly dimpled/blotchy finish because of how viscous this stuff is. The best way to visualize it is that it has to be treated more seriously than paint in a can due to the viscosity. I recommend warming the can in a bucket of hot water so it becomes a very fine mist for even coverage.
2. Make sure you make a really thick coat for protection and so that it's easier to peel. If you make a thin coat it's going to be really hard for you to peel it later on because it's going to constantly tear into a million small pieces, where as a thick coat comes off in fewer pieces.
was hoping to hear that...thx
some use index cards taping them together, i was thinking playing cards with their vinyl coating might release easier...i suspect potential trouble cause the joint here will pool the dip and if the lip finish is botched I won't be happy.
Here's the Honda Touring rims and the funky lip of concern..I let the air pressure out
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-16819-31205-img_0901.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-16819-31206-img_0902.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Correction 2 winter seasons 6mo. ea. on these dipped steel rims
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-16819-31208-img_0900.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Here's the Honda Touring rims and the funky lip of concern..I let the air pressure out
Correction 2 winter seasons 6mo. ea. on these dipped steel rims
Originally Posted by Linctex
I have never heard of this before - - is it mainly for corrosion protection?
It's like a rubberized coating that allows you to "peel" it off if you desire. Not like paint where it's mostly permanent. Needs frequent touch ups and is fragile. I suppose it does provide some corrosion protection?
I have never heard of this before - - is it mainly for corrosion protection?
It's like a rubberized coating that allows you to "peel" it off if you desire. Not like paint where it's mostly permanent. Needs frequent touch ups and is fragile. I suppose it does provide some corrosion protection?
Originally Posted by Linctex
I have never heard of this before - - is it mainly for corrosion protection?
It's for any use. It was originally devised for dipping tools to make tool handles, which is does exceedingly well at. I dipped some ratchet handles years ago, the coating is still flexible, still stuck on (hasn't started peeling even a little) and shows no damage despite me throwing the ratchet around on concrete.
It's not really fragile. I have had wheels plastidipped for years, no chips or damage at all to it. In fact it actually works better than paint, I've had painted wheels chip easily, plastidip is thick and flexible enough to absorb impact from chips without breaking.
Yes it does protect the underlying material from corrosion, because it goes on thin (which covers all of the imperfections in the finish) and then the solvent flashes off leaving it as tight as possible on the surface. If you've ever tried to peel plastidip, you'll know what I mean. It peels off as if there's a vacuum under it, that's how tight it is.
I have never heard of this before - - is it mainly for corrosion protection?
It's for any use. It was originally devised for dipping tools to make tool handles, which is does exceedingly well at. I dipped some ratchet handles years ago, the coating is still flexible, still stuck on (hasn't started peeling even a little) and shows no damage despite me throwing the ratchet around on concrete.
It's not really fragile. I have had wheels plastidipped for years, no chips or damage at all to it. In fact it actually works better than paint, I've had painted wheels chip easily, plastidip is thick and flexible enough to absorb impact from chips without breaking.
Yes it does protect the underlying material from corrosion, because it goes on thin (which covers all of the imperfections in the finish) and then the solvent flashes off leaving it as tight as possible on the surface. If you've ever tried to peel plastidip, you'll know what I mean. It peels off as if there's a vacuum under it, that's how tight it is.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-16819-31221-img_0903.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Playing cards work just fine. Pretty much everyone has used this method.
dipped the center caps with Luxury Metal Black Sapphire and 2 coats glossifier it's basically black with tiny blue metal flake, you really need to look to see it reminds me if the black paint on a '03 Accord i owned. This should turn out fine, included the fob for a straight black reference...one pic in the sun one inside w/flash.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-16819-31235-p1030438.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-16819-31236-p1030434.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Last edited:
ChrisFix had a good video on painting rims with the tire on in case this might help you...
Last edited:
Careful not to turn my Touring Coupe into a ricer, never would have started this had the OEM refurbished second set of rims not lost their finish but I went ahead and bought wheel spacers just to give it a ever so slight edge..3mm that's 1/8" and the Firestone UHP tires are +1 in width ...subtle, barely noticeable yet present...thinking might add a bit of smoke paint on the white rear pannels around the exhaust tips...very leery to stray far from stock.
.....going to have to wait for warmer weather, now forecast doesn't look promising either...nice today but 38 was the high..yet to crack 55 degrees this year, too cold for painting but spring will eventually get here...I hope.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-16819-31240-p1030440.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-16819-31241-p1030439.jpg "[Linked Image]")
.....going to have to wait for warmer weather, now forecast doesn't look promising either...nice today but 38 was the high..yet to crack 55 degrees this year, too cold for painting but spring will eventually get here...I hope.
- Status
