m1,ep and valvoline.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted by BLND1
Originally Posted by dogememe
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question


If he wanted to stir stuff up he'd just use the dog whistle "Shell Rotella Gas Truck."



I heard my name?! Who is using RGT?!
 
I would choose the M1 EP simply because I like the specs,and I've used both (years ago I used the M1 EP 15W50 exclusively in my 300ZX) and prefer the M1.
 
Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by dogememe
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question

again another bored up hater just hating away.
if u dont like a thread just dont read it its easier than writing something mean and completely wrong and useless.


Exactly right. If you don't have something nice to say, how about ignoring the post and moving on to the next one? Or, you could help educate the OP or others who come along later and read it. People come to this forum with various levels of automotive knowledge, including especially knowledge of tribology. As someone who has moderated a men's health website for several years, it's a given that people will eventually ask the same question or not know the proper terminology to use. Being patient and kind takes a little more work, but in the end it's the right thing to do. Or, as mentioned previously, ignore it and move along to the next post.
 
tnx for that plus i always do a search before i ask,im an expert in my line of work and no matter how many times people ask me the very same questions i always answer patiently and kindly even if its the same person asking me the same question over and over.be nice people its a learning experience for others here.no ine knows everything.
 
Originally Posted by ClarkSuper100
Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by dogememe
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question

again another bored up hater just hating away.
if u dont like a thread just dont read it its easier than writing something mean and completely wrong and useless.


Exactly right. If you don't have something nice to say, how about ignoring the post and moving on to the next one? Or, you could help educate the OP or others who come along later and read it. People come to this forum with various levels of automotive knowledge, including especially knowledge of tribology. As someone who has moderated a men's health website for several years, it's a given that people will eventually ask the same question or not know the proper terminology to use. Being patient and kind takes a little more work, but in the end it's the right thing to do. Or, as mentioned previously, ignore it and move along to the next post.





Sounds like good advice. Bye Clark. ⬛ï¸â¬›ï¸â¬›ï¸â¬›ï¸â¬›ï¸

Seems we have a swarm here.
 
Originally Posted by pbm
QuatroPete beat me to it.....I knew there was a blog that referenced 'psi' and it took me a while to find it (the 540Rat blog)
Here it is:
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Here's a BITOG thread:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4342701/1

I think some guys should take it easy on a newer member who may not use English as his first language ....

Yep we needed that posted in this thread since the other thread today on basically the same subject got deleted
smirk2.gif
 
Originally Posted by pbm
QuatroPete beat me to it.....I knew there was a blog that referenced 'psi' and it took me a while to find it (the 540Rat blog)
Here it is:
Yes, but the question is whether the OP intentionally brought it up in a roundabout way to stir the pot.
 
Originally Posted by Quattro Pete
Originally Posted by pbm
QuatroPete beat me to it.....I knew there was a blog that referenced 'psi' and it took me a while to find it (the 540Rat blog)
Here it is:
Yes, but the question is whether the OP intentionally brought it up in a roundabout way to stir the pot.



QP: I don't know if the OP is 'stirring the pot' or not but I knew what he was referring to when he mentioned 'psi'.....I was just trying to answer his question.
I do sometimes find that people make comments which don't contribute anything or answer the question asked.....why not just ignore the question rather than make snide remarks...especially to a newbie who may not be fluent in English...(I'm not referring to you Quatro Pete)
 
Originally Posted by avi1777
as much as i learn on oils i start to realize all synths are very similar as long as they are in the same spec,that all the boutique oil are not really worth it if u r not racing and that its all in the right grade,specs and intervals.
took me a while but it happened.
sorry if i drove u guys mad.

With the proper ratings and from a major blender oil is oil.
 
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by avi1777
as much as i learn on oils i start to realize all synths are very similar as long as they are in the same spec,that all the boutique oil are not really worth it if u r not racing and that its all in the right grade,specs and intervals.
took me a while but it happened.
sorry if i drove u guys mad.

With the proper ratings and from a major blender oil is oil.

To a point it shouldn't really matter if the manufacturer's specifications are met. But it is possible to exceed such requirements where it might make a difference. It would be for something like Honda's VCM sludge monsters or other cases where there was a design defect and/or under-spec.
 
Originally Posted by y_p_w
To a point it shouldn't really matter if the manufacturer's specifications are met. But it is possible to exceed such requirements where it might make a difference. It would be for something like Honda's VCM sludge monsters or other cases where there was a design defect and/or under-spec.

How do you determine that a particular oil exceeds a certain requirement and by how much it might do so?
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by y_p_w
To a point it shouldn't really matter if the manufacturer's specifications are met. But it is possible to exceed such requirements where it might make a difference. It would be for something like Honda's VCM sludge monsters or other cases where there was a design defect and/or under-spec.

How do you determine that a particular oil exceeds a certain requirement and by how much it may do so?

There must be anti-sludge tests out there. However, those engines were notorious for sludging when used with common API SM 5W-20. Pretty much no reports of sludge with Mobil 1 or equivalents.
 
Originally Posted by y_p_w
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by y_p_w
To a point it shouldn't really matter if the manufacturer's specifications are met. But it is possible to exceed such requirements where it might make a difference. It would be for something like Honda's VCM sludge monsters or other cases where there was a design defect and/or under-spec.

How do you determine that a particular oil exceeds a certain requirement and by how much it may do so?

There must be anti-sludge tests out there. However, those engines were notorious for sludging when used with common API SM 5W-20. Pretty much no reports of sludge with Mobil 1 or equivalents.




Are not anti-sludge tests part of the testing regimen to achieve a certification like SN+?

This is what makes these API certifications important. They involve a variety of tests including anti-wear, deposit control, cleaning ability, and many more.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by y_p_w
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by y_p_w
To a point it shouldn't really matter if the manufacturer's specifications are met. But it is possible to exceed such requirements where it might make a difference. It would be for something like Honda's VCM sludge monsters or other cases where there was a design defect and/or under-spec.

How do you determine that a particular oil exceeds a certain requirement and by how much it may do so?

There must be anti-sludge tests out there. However, those engines were notorious for sludging when used with common API SM 5W-20. Pretty much no reports of sludge with Mobil 1 or equivalents.




Are not anti-sludge tests part of the testing regimen to achieve a certification like SN+?

This is what makes these API certifications important. They involve a variety of tests including anti-wear, deposit control, cleaning ability, and many more.

Sure. However, there were plenty of reports of owners following the OLM and getting dealer oil changes using 5W-20 such as PYB, Mobil Super, Castrol GTX, etc and finding that they were sludging up anyways. From what I heard they didn't sludge up if it was changed more frequently (I don't normally advocate for that, but in this case it seemed to help) or if someone used a more sludge-resistant "synthetic oil".
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
I would choose the M1 EP simply because I like the specs,and I've used both (years ago I used the M1 EP 15W50 exclusively in my 300ZX) and prefer the M1.

both what?the ep amd the non ep m1?
tnx
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

C
M1 5W30 EP D1 / Gen 3 Users ?
2
Replies
31
Views
4K
Triple_Se7en
N
Mixing 5 quarts Mobil 1 EP + 0.7 quart M1 AFE 0W-20
2
Replies
31
Views
2K
odie
C
Mobil 1 5W30 EP Ability to Reduce Wear ?
Replies
14
Views
2K
Vitamin Yoda
J
Oil (re)selection for GDI
2
Replies
35
Views
3K
burbguy82
C
M1 5W30 vs Valvoline Advanced Wear Protection ?
2
Replies
25
Views
4K
4WD
Back
Top