SAE 20 non-detergent oil

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Chevy 216Cu.In. 75,000 orig. miles. Shop manual says use 20 w, 30 wt when its 90 deg. Question ,is all 20wt. basically mineral oil,I've been using Accel since it's one of the only brands I can find, and now I can't find it by the case anymore. Master Mechanic offers it as compressor oil, not recommended for 4 cycle engines? Tried 30 wt. engine runs and idles better with 20wt. Anyone familiar with the chevy six have any experience in this matter? I feel thinner oil is better for the oil slosh oiling system of the engine ,do you think the Master Mechanic non-detergent 20W would be OK? Thanks for any help!

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You have to ascertain how dirty the engine is before proceeding.
If it has lived its life on ND oil, and has a lot of deposits and gunk in it, modern detergent oils will clean that out and possibly cause a problem.
But if it is clean inside, a modern HDEO 30wt, or 10W-30, would be much better for it - will keep it clean, and have anti-wear additives in that would protect the engine better.

with low mileage and good condition, it is probably a good candidate for a 10W-30 HDEO. That is what I would use, btw, nice car!
 
20 weight oils have basically disappeared.
Mobil still makes Delvac in 20 weight but it's only in 55 gallon drums.
Ravenol makes a 20 weight synthetic.
LubriPlate makes a non detergent 20 weight in 12 quart cases. LubriPlate
Looks like FS still has a 20 weight as well. FarmService
Rural King has Harvest King in 2 gallon bottles. Harvest King
 
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You'd likely be well served with a 10w-30 provided, as addguy touched-on, the engine isn't filthy inside from running ND oils. We ran various grades in our antique boat engines and they weren't picky.
 
After cleaning and the introduction of new oil, you may want to check the valve lash and adjust as necessary.

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General Specifications
The 216 engine is a six cylinder with an output power of 90 horsepower at 3,300 rpm and 174 ft-lb of torque at 1,200 rpm. The compression ratio is 6.50:1 and the piston displacement is 216.5 cubic inches. The bore and stroke of the engine is 3.5 inches by 3.75 inches. The normal oil pressure on the 216 engine is 14 psi and its compression at crank speed is 110 psi.

Valve Specifications
As far as the valve specifications on the 216 engine, the operating clearance intake is .006 inch hot and the exhaust is .015 inch hot. The valve seat angle is 30 degrees, the intake valve timing opens three degrees before top center and the exhaust valve timing closes five degrees after top center. The valve spring pressure is 125 lb at 1.5 inches with a valve stem clearance intake of .001 to .003 inch and a valve stem clearance exhaust of .002 to .004 inch.


Connecting Rod Bearing Specifications
The journal diameter of the 216 engine is between 2.311 inches and 2.312 inches with a bearing clearance between .0010 and .0025 inch. The rod end play is between .004 and .007 inch with a rod bolt tension between 35 ft-lb and 45 ft-lb.

Starter Specifications
The starter part number on the 216 engine is 1107061 with a bush spring tension of 24 ounces to 28 ounces. The no load test on the engine is 65 amps with 5.67 volts at 5,000 rpm and the torque test consists of 525 amps with 3.37 volts and 12 ft-lb of torque.

Capacity Specifications
The Chevrolet 216 engine is able to operate with a 16-gallon fuel tank, five quarts of oil and 1.5 pints of transmission fluid. As far as a cooling system, the engine can handle 15 quarts of fluid without a heater or 16 quarts, if a heater is installed.


I would think one of Amalie's oils in 10W30 would work well, such as Amalie 10W30 Conventional
 
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Nice car! If you switch to a detergent oil I would do it slowly: one OCI with four quarts of SAE20 ND and one quart 5W20 conventional, the next OCI with 50/50 and then just switch over to 5W20.

If you feel it runs better on 20 weight then run a modern 20.
 
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Just how much are you going to drive it? I'm wondering if 30 is not just fine. I mean, how often are you going to start it at 50F and down?

IIRC this is OHV, so sludge could build under the valve cover (maybe in behind the side cover too). I wonder if it's not just best to drop the oil pan (is that possible?), pull the side covers, and inspect. If there's sludge, vacuum it out. If it's clean, then not worry about it. Maybe not the oil pan, since that's probably a real chore, but you get the idea.
 
Thanks supton, Have always used Non-detergent. Engine was pretty clean (side covers and Valve cover) ,Oil pan was full of sludge ,cleaned pump screen and oil pan . I only start it a couple times a month in winter below 50, starts quicker with starting fluid. I could try non-detergent 30W again , most of the restoration shops around here use it. The engine just idles smoother it seems with ND 20W . Thanks again
 
Originally Posted by fleetwood62
Thanks supton, Have always used Non-detergent. Engine was pretty clean (side covers and Valve cover) ,Oil pan was full of sludge ,cleaned pump screen and oil pan . I only start it a couple times a month in winter below 50, starts quicker with starting fluid. I could try non-detergent 30W again , most of the restoration shops around here use it. The engine just idles smoother it seems with ND 20W . Thanks again

Because of the non-detergent oil. There is really no reason to use an outdated oil in an old car, the reason they used it back then was because of availability not because it was somehow superior.
 
Thanks addyguy, I'll stick with Non-detergent because ,although it has an oil filter (Fram) it didn't come from the factory with one. Thanks for the input and nice remarks about the car.
 
She is a beauty! I would love to go for a ride in her. I worked at a fork lift dealership and we used 30 hdeo in the flat head forklift engines.
 
Reach out to your local classic car garage.
This would be a routine question for them.

Then report back on their recommendation so we can all learn!
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I do not know when they went away from dippers on the rods. Too thick of oil will fold back the dippers and you will be doing a rebuild. 20w FOR A REASON.

Rod
 
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
I do not know when they went away from dippers on the rods. Too thick of oil will fold back the dippers and you will be doing a rebuild. 20w FOR A REASON.

So a 20W-20 back in the day had an operational viscosity the same as today's SAE 20 grade? How about the HTHS?
 
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
I do not know when they went away from dippers on the rods. Too thick of oil will fold back the dippers and you will be doing a rebuild. 20w FOR A REASON.

Rod

Exactly! This engine does not oil itself in the same manner as modern engines. Film strength means ZERO if there's no oil there to form a film.

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Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
I do not know when they went away from dippers on the rods. Too thick of oil will fold back the dippers and you will be doing a rebuild. 20w FOR A REASON.

So a 20W-20 back in the day had an operational viscosity the same as today's SAE 20 grade? How about the HTHS?

I don't know. I'm seriously doubting, though, that there was such a thing as HTHS vis, at least in any form we know it. This car's engine was designed at a time when, to put it mildly (and imprecisely), motor oils were primitive and basic (by our standards today, of course).
 
Originally Posted by fleetwood62
,Oil pan was full of sludge ,cleaned pump screen and oil pan . I only start it a couple times a month in winter below 50, starts quicker with starting fluid. I could try non-detergent 30W again , most of the restoration shops around here use it. The engine just idles smoother it seems with ND 20W . Thanks again



And right there is your reason for your sludge and crud.

ND oils have no anti-wear, no detergents, no dispersants, and no rust and corrosion inhibitors.

If you think you MUST use a 20 weight, try a Blend such as Motorcraft 5W20 or equivalent.

That is one beautiful vintage vehicle.
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I used to have a 1938 Chev Coupe whan I was 18. Oil consumtion was 100 mpg...even standing still. I used to look after a '38 sedan in the late '90's, a daily driver. We converted it to shell bearings....Vauxhall from memory...
 
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