m1,ep and valvoline.
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Originally Posted by avi1777
anybody knows the psi on those?
tnx
The what?
anybody knows the psi on those?
tnx
The what?
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by avi1777
anybody knows the psi on those?and how important this factor is in oil for very hot climate?
tnx
psi?.... Are they going to hiss when cracking the plastic seal on the cap?
anybody knows the psi on those?and how important this factor is in oil for very hot climate?
tnx
psi?.... Are they going to hiss when cracking the plastic seal on the cap?
Do you mean NOACK volatility? That could be a factor for oil that gets extra hot in a warm climate.
Or HTHS ? Thats also important for severe, hot duty.
For any kind of severe, hot, or similar tough duty, I'd pick Mobil1 Extended Performance or Mobil1 Annual Protection, as they are made by a good company and have a lot of PAO in them to reduce oxidation.
Or HTHS ? Thats also important for severe, hot duty.
For any kind of severe, hot, or similar tough duty, I'd pick Mobil1 Extended Performance or Mobil1 Annual Protection, as they are made by a good company and have a lot of PAO in them to reduce oxidation.
Originally Posted by avi1777
psi in oil is measured to show the film strength i believe m1 5w30 is around 115000 psi.
All oils tested the same in that goofy test. No one oil tested better than any other, so no comparison can be made.
Took you a while to get here but you did.
psi in oil is measured to show the film strength i believe m1 5w30 is around 115000 psi.
All oils tested the same in that goofy test. No one oil tested better than any other, so no comparison can be made.
Took you a while to get here but you did.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by avi1777
psi in oil is measured to show the film strength i believe m1 5w30 is around 115000 psi.
All oils tested the same in that goofy test. No one oil tested better than any other, so no comparison can be made.
Took you a while to get here but you did.
How did you understand its question? I'm still scratching my head on how psi gets in the oil.
Originally Posted by avi1777
psi in oil is measured to show the film strength i believe m1 5w30 is around 115000 psi.
All oils tested the same in that goofy test. No one oil tested better than any other, so no comparison can be made.
Took you a while to get here but you did.
How did you understand its question? I'm still scratching my head on how psi gets in the oil.
Originally Posted by PimTac
How did you understand its question? I'm still scratching my head on how psi gets in the oil.
You have to let the smoke out first.
How did you understand its question? I'm still scratching my head on how psi gets in the oil.
You have to let the smoke out first.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by avi1777
psi in oil is measured to show the film strength i believe m1 5w30 is around 115000 psi.
Are you looking to determine which engine oil works best in a differential?
psi in oil is measured to show the film strength i believe m1 5w30 is around 115000 psi.
Are you looking to determine which engine oil works best in a differential?
as much as i learn on oils i start to realize all synths are very similar as long as they are in the same spec,that all the boutique oil are not really worth it if u r not racing and that its all in the right grade,specs and intervals.
took me a while but it happened.
sorry if i drove u guys mad.
took me a while but it happened.
sorry if i drove u guys mad.
Originally Posted by avi1777
as much as i learn on oils i start to realize all synths are very similar as long as they are in the same spec,that all the boutique oil are not really worth it if u r not racing and that its all in the right grade,specs and intervals.
took me a while but it happened.
sorry if i drove u guys mad.
I used to think that if I used the perfect motor oil that my engine would last forever, gain a few HP, and possibly even survive if something bad happened like a sudden oil leak. Or perhaps survive if I suddenly lost all coolant. Actually the last thing happened a couple of times. However, there are plenty of people posting to this forum who have had good experiences and virtually no oil-related issues using ordinary conventional motor oils changed regularly.
It's kind of fun thinking about all this, but in the end motor oil has gotten very good in the past 20 years. We talk about our favorites and run through all sorts of numbers, but you'll see a lot of different choices. Many discuss using basic API SN motor oils in vehicles that are easy on the oil. Then there are the cars where the manufacturer specifies some exotic specification that may be targeted for extended drain or some other unusual requirement (like BMW's 10W-60).
Doing these things are relatively inexpensive compared to car payments, and DIY maintenance makes the owner feel good. However, you're going to go crazy worrying about some unusual performance specification that the manufacturer doesn't care about. I still don't know exactly what use the four-ball wear test is when describing motor oils. Or worrying about film strength when most motor oils use sacrificial antiwear additives. Your vehicle will live a nice long life as long as you give it a good quality motor oil, new filters as specified by the manufacturer, and change it regularly. I didn't necessarily say often as I don't subscribe to the belief that more frequent oil changes will necessarily improve engine longevity. It just needs to be changed before the additives are depleted, VII breaks down to unacceptable levels, and/or the base oil is excessively thickened. And in your case perhaps before fuel dilution becomes excessive. I've read that manufacturers don't necessarily believe that trying to keep the wear metals in the oil (that aren't filtered out) down will necessarily extend engine life in any meaningful way.
as much as i learn on oils i start to realize all synths are very similar as long as they are in the same spec,that all the boutique oil are not really worth it if u r not racing and that its all in the right grade,specs and intervals.
took me a while but it happened.
sorry if i drove u guys mad.
I used to think that if I used the perfect motor oil that my engine would last forever, gain a few HP, and possibly even survive if something bad happened like a sudden oil leak. Or perhaps survive if I suddenly lost all coolant. Actually the last thing happened a couple of times. However, there are plenty of people posting to this forum who have had good experiences and virtually no oil-related issues using ordinary conventional motor oils changed regularly.
It's kind of fun thinking about all this, but in the end motor oil has gotten very good in the past 20 years. We talk about our favorites and run through all sorts of numbers, but you'll see a lot of different choices. Many discuss using basic API SN motor oils in vehicles that are easy on the oil. Then there are the cars where the manufacturer specifies some exotic specification that may be targeted for extended drain or some other unusual requirement (like BMW's 10W-60).
Doing these things are relatively inexpensive compared to car payments, and DIY maintenance makes the owner feel good. However, you're going to go crazy worrying about some unusual performance specification that the manufacturer doesn't care about. I still don't know exactly what use the four-ball wear test is when describing motor oils. Or worrying about film strength when most motor oils use sacrificial antiwear additives. Your vehicle will live a nice long life as long as you give it a good quality motor oil, new filters as specified by the manufacturer, and change it regularly. I didn't necessarily say often as I don't subscribe to the belief that more frequent oil changes will necessarily improve engine longevity. It just needs to be changed before the additives are depleted, VII breaks down to unacceptable levels, and/or the base oil is excessively thickened. And in your case perhaps before fuel dilution becomes excessive. I've read that manufacturers don't necessarily believe that trying to keep the wear metals in the oil (that aren't filtered out) down will necessarily extend engine life in any meaningful way.
Originally Posted by dogememe
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question
again another bored up hater just hating away.
if u dont like a thread just dont read it its easier than writing something mean and completely wrong and useless.
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question
again another bored up hater just hating away.
if u dont like a thread just dont read it its easier than writing something mean and completely wrong and useless.
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by avi1777
psi in oil is measured to show the film strength i believe m1 5w30 is around 115000 psi.
All oils tested the same in that goofy test. No one oil tested better than any other, so no comparison can be made.
Took you a while to get here but you did.
How did you understand its question? I'm still scratching my head on how psi gets in the oil.
He's talking about the 540rat test.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by avi1777
psi in oil is measured to show the film strength i believe m1 5w30 is around 115000 psi.
All oils tested the same in that goofy test. No one oil tested better than any other, so no comparison can be made.
Took you a while to get here but you did.
How did you understand its question? I'm still scratching my head on how psi gets in the oil.
He's talking about the 540rat test.
Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by dogememe
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question
again another bored up hater just hating away.
if u dont like a thread just dont read it its easier than writing something mean and completely wrong and useless.
You think I'm typing stuff that's completely useless? Look in the mirror hun
Originally Posted by dogememe
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question
again another bored up hater just hating away.
if u dont like a thread just dont read it its easier than writing something mean and completely wrong and useless.
You think I'm typing stuff that's completely useless? Look in the mirror hun
Originally Posted by dogememe
Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by dogememe
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question
again another bored up hater just hating away.
if u dont like a thread just dont read it its easier than writing something mean and completely wrong and useless.
You think I'm typing stuff that's completely useless? Look in the mirror hun
It's lucky it's getting any responses period.
Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by dogememe
what a useless thread. op is just trying to stir [censored] up without actually posting a real question
again another bored up hater just hating away.
if u dont like a thread just dont read it its easier than writing something mean and completely wrong and useless.
You think I'm typing stuff that's completely useless? Look in the mirror hun
It's lucky it's getting any responses period.
just beacuse u dont know something it doesn't make it useless and to other retired doing favors lack of knowledge dude dont responde its OK.
seriously people why u have to be so unkind.u always go to personal places when im asking something professionally even if its far fetched.
grow a plant,buy a fish do something kind for humanity just dont be nasty.
seriously people why u have to be so unkind.u always go to personal places when im asking something professionally even if its far fetched.
grow a plant,buy a fish do something kind for humanity just dont be nasty.
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