Oil recommendations for old car

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These engines really don't need extra ZDDP...the level of it in '30s thru '50s oil was pretty low, and today's oils have much better add packs to prevent wear. I also would have concerns about ND oil previously being used, but it sounds like you really don't have access to that info. Personally (as the owner of a 230 myself), if it were mine, I'd pick a quality 10W30 and run it. Keep a close eye on it, and if it gets dirty quickly, maybe change the bypass filter early.
 
Additional Zinc is generally needed for higher pressure valve springs.
Even a decent 10w30 dino oil is OK for the stockers; Rotella works well.
I especially like the detergent...
 
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Oil filter ever used? Has it been run on non-detergent oil it's whole life? If extensive use of ND oil has occurred, I think I would stick with ND oil-otherwise you may start dislodging a lot of stuff inside...


As little as he drives it - and as often as he'll PROBABLY change the oil per months/years (with very little mileage) that won't be a problem.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142

Today's nd oils are also missing antiwear addatives. I would not use them in an engine today.....


*SOME* ND-30 might be OK. I know the Napa stuff is a very good "base oil' - but, yes - no additives.

I'd honestly run Rotella 15W-40 or Delo 15w-40 myself
 
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Additional Zinc is generally needed for higher pressure valve springs.


But this car has very, very, very, very weak pressure valve springs
 
Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Why y'all suggesting straight grade? 5w30 mo' betta than SAE 30

I know that it sounds weird but they seem " happier" with straight oils. Thats what they were designed for.

My 1957 case tractor does not "sound" good with multi weight oils. It has better oil pressure with sae30 than it had with 15w-40.
 
Originally Posted by zrxkawboy
These engines really don't need extra ZDDP...the level of it in '30s thru '50s oil was pretty low, and today's oils have much better add packs to prevent wear. I also would have concerns about ND oil previously being used, but it sounds like you really don't have access to that info. Personally (as the owner of a 230 myself), if it were mine, I'd pick a quality 10W30 and run it. Keep a close eye on it, and if it gets dirty quickly, maybe change the bypass filter early.


Do these have oil pressure fed rods or dippers?
 
Originally Posted by PPWarrior
Never use SOPUS (Shell, Penn, Quaker) its been proven that the wax forms at the bottom of the oil pan. Even here some users posted pictures of PPU bottles plugged with wax.

Just so that you can make a better informed decision.



How does it feel to post blatantly false information?
 
Originally Posted by Linctex
... But this car has very, very, very, very weak pressure valve springs
Valve springs exert force, not pressure.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Why y'all suggesting straight grade? 5w30 mo' betta than SAE 30

I know that it sounds weird but they seem " happier" with straight oils. Thats what they were designed for.

My 1957 case tractor does not "sound" good with multi weight oils. It has better oil pressure with sae30 than it had with 15w-40.

Indeed that does sound a little odd. Do you have any theories as to why? I don't oft touch old stuff so I'm genuinely interested in a discussion about it.

My impression of the recommendation of SAE 30 is this: Multi grade oils weren't far enough along in their development process and the VIIs used suffered from shear down, hence the decision to stick with a straight weight. Much like how we transitioned from 10w30 to 5w30 as the tech improved.

Do you happen to know the oil temps involved? I'm curious if there's an oddity where the straight weight was a fair bit thicker than multi grade on account of lower oil temps
 
Originally Posted by das_peikko
Chevron SAE 30 and a bottle of Justice Brothers ZDDP additive for the camshaft and lifters.

[Linked Image]




The advice to add a 3rd party chemical in the case of this engine designed in 1951 is just bunk.
 
Originally Posted by PPWarrior
Never use SOPUS (Shell, Penn, Quaker) its been proven that the wax forms at the bottom of the oil pan. Even here some users posted pictures of PPU bottles plugged with wax.

Just so that you can make a better informed decision.


There were some rumors decades ago but nothing new. Even then I don't know how true it was since I used to used dino Pennzoil in very cold winters and never had an issue.

recently, I put PP and couple other non sopus top of the line syn and dino oils in the freezer (-2°F) for a week and the only oil that looked as clear as it was at the room temp was the PP. The rest looked foggy (waxy? idk). Maybe it was moisture ... but whatever it was did not impact PP.
fyi, I'm still using both of the waxy looking oils in addition to PP so I'm not concerned but kind of impressed with PP.
 
Originally Posted by PPWarrior
Never use SOPUS (Shell, Penn, Quaker) its been proven that the wax forms at the bottom of the oil pan. Even here some users posted pictures of PPU bottles plugged with wax.

Proven, eh? What a load of rubbish.

To the original poster, in addition to the suggestions of an SAE 30, a 10w-30 HDEO would also be very suitable. I wouldn't stress overly about ZDDP content in an engine of this vintage, but the elevated HTHS of a 10w-30 HDEO will be similar to that of an SAE 30.
 
Your engine was probably spec'd for 30w. A 10w30 or 10w40 should work fine with caveats. An API SN would be fine but I would stay away from an Energy (or Resource Conserving) oil. That means no "Starburst" or ILSAC rated oil. An ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4 or High Mileage oil is where you will find this. Personally, I would pick M1 HM 10w30 or 10w40 (ACEA A3/B3, HTHS > 3.5). No need for a ZDDP additive (or any other additive).
 
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Originally Posted by Chris142

Do these have oil pressure fed rods or dippers?

pressure fed
 
I agree with a straight grade SAE 30. Use a conventional oil. As a member stated above, these engines love a straight 30 grade. Don't put any additives in it.
 
I also suggest a peek into the owners' manual, if one can be found for this Plymouth. If it runs good and no oil burning or major oil control issues, I would use a conventional 10w40... possibly 20w50 if ambient temps stay above 40F.
 
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