Change oil and / or filter in brand new vehicle?

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I'm in the process of buying a new GMC Canyon, with the 3.6 Liter V-6 LGZ Engine (https://bit.ly/2u4UXUz). Just like everyone, I'm sure, I want to break-in the motor the most efficiently as possible.

While I don't think it's necessary to dump brand new oil, I am very tempted to immediately change oil filters from the factory ACDelco Professional PF2257G ("Equipped with 98% multi-pass filtering efficiency at 25-30 microns for excellent filtering capabilities" - https://bit.ly/2UB1WQP) to either a Fram Tough Guard ("Stronger, more durable media provides an outstanding 99% dirt-trapping efficiency - FRAM Group testing of average filter efficiency of PH8A, 3387A and 4967 or equivalent FRAM TG or XG models under ISO 4548-12 for particles greater than 20 microns.") or Fram Ultra.

Since a brand new motor is most likely to have tiny metal shaving or other unwanted stuff floating in the oil, I personally think this might be a smart thing to do. However, do YOU think immediately changing oil filters is a...

  • Good idea
  • Bad idea
  • Meh...why bother. Change the filter at the first oil change

Thank you,
Ed
 
Anything floating around in a new engine is going to be large enough to be caught by even a mediocre oil filter, in my opinion.
 
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I always dump the factory fill between 500/1K miles, don't want a bunch of grit floating around my new engine.
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Best way to break in an engine to ensure piston rings seat is to drive it with varying RPM. Avoid highway cruising as much as possible. You can change the oil at 1000mi if that makes you feel more comfortable or follow the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval.
 
I all of our and customer's vehicles, I change the factory filled oil and filter at about 1,000 miles and consider that break-in. I replace with any of the fine synthetic oils - Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol plus either Fram Ultra or OEM filter unless the customer requests Amsoil.

Any yes, in several occasions I've cut open the filter and found metal bits caught in the filter element.
 
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I've always changed out early and multiple times in the first 5,000. Oil is cheap, engines aren't and there is a lot of swarf floating around the engine when it's new before it settles down with regular oil changes.
Anything you do will help it along won't hurt and could be beneficial, but the OE will tell you it's not necessary.

I would also add that given the GM timing chain issues, if it were mine I would be changing it out at least within the first 600 miles and then keep a short OCI thereafter for the first bit until I felt like everything that could be flushed out has been. I'd also use the spec'ed oil and weight but would make sure it had moly in its additive package. (Preference)

Some might say it's a waste of oil but how much cheaper is the oil than changing out the chain and the headache of having to go through it.
wink.gif
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
I've always changed out early and multiple times in the first 5,000. Oil is cheap, engines aren't and there is a lot of swarf floating around the engine when it's new before it settles down with regular oil changes.
Anything you do will help it along won't hurt and could be beneficial, but the OE will tell you it's not necessary.

I would also add that given the GM timing chain issues, if it were mine I would be changing it out at least within the first 600 miles and then keep a short OCI thereafter for the first bit until I felt like everything that could be flushed out has been. I'd also use the spec'ed oil and weight but would make sure it had moly in its additive package. (Preference)

Some might say it's a waste of oil but how much cheaper is the oil than changing out the chain and the headache of having to go through it.
wink.gif




I agree!

Currently, I use Castrol EDGE in both of our cars (5W-30) and truck (0W-40). I don't know if it has any "moly" but I've heard it does have a good additive package.

Ed
 
I understand you are talking about only changing the filter and not the oil. Meh, why bother.
 
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Originally Posted by Ed_Flecko
I agree!

Currently, I use Castrol EDGE in both of our cars (5W-30) and truck (0W-40). I don't know if it has any "moly" but I've heard it does have a good additive package.

Ed


Ed, I'm not sure and it depends on the which Edge you are using... There is a couple of them.
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by Ed_Flecko
I agree!

Currently, I use Castrol EDGE in both of our cars (5W-30) and truck (0W-40). I don't know if it has any "moly" but I've heard it does have a good additive package.

Ed


Ed, I'm not sure and it depends on the which Edge you are using... There is a couple of them.


I use "Castrol EDGE with Fluid TITANIUM Technology" - https://bit.ly/2W1Uajc

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Ed
 
Originally Posted by PPWarrior
Save your money, but a Tacoma


I thought about it, however they're overpriced, the V6 only puts out 278 hp, and I think they're butt ugly.

Oh, did I mention, I'm dumping my 2004 Tacoma?

smile.gif


Ed
 
I put 400 3.0L diesel Sprinters into service and they all went 12,000 to 15,000 miles before their first oil change.

Did not lose any engines to oil failure up to 200,000 miles. Which is the last data point I have.

Lost 2 engines to hydro-locking when the trucks rolled in high winds.

and,FWIW
 
I do not change the oil early anymore on my new vehicles. I might change it a couple hundred miles early but IMO its nothing to worry about with modern machining and manufacturing.
 
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