2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited 2.4L Mobil 1 Annual Protection Good for 12K OCI?

[JustinH]

No severe service is 3750 miles in this car.

My Hyundai dealer is specing 5w30 blend and 3000 mile intervals for the Theta II.

I have been doing about 3600-3800 miles in mine.

 

[1 SX]

Wow thanks for all the replies!. So to keep it under warranty I will then do 7500 OCI, and do a black stone labs test when I change it out. I might even go to 5W30 on next OC depending on results. Thanks again!

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted by SL2
Wow thanks for all the replies!. So to keep it under warranty I will then do 7500 OCI, and do a black stone labs test when I change it out. I might even go to 5W30 on next OC depending on results. Thanks again!


Change it earlier if needed. You might smell fuel. You might witness ugly black, sooty oil on the dipstick. Never go by a number on the odometer, or by a number on any OLM that typically is set by miles and/or hours run.
The first time my then-new Colorado OLM alerted me was at 10.7K miles. By that time, I had changed the oil and filter twice. It basically goes off at 10.7k repeatedly and I'm now at 126K. Matters-not when I last changed the oil and filter.
So that's a perfect example to boycott following these-type OLMs.... which are a vast majority, that display after x-amount of miles and/or hours.

 

[ChrisD46]

Originally Posted by PimTac
That oil will go 20k but only if your engine, your warranty if applicable, and your driving routine will allow it.

+1 ... This is the reality of the answer !

 

[ChrisD46]

2017 Sonata GDI 2.4L GDI engine owner here - drive in mostly large city , suburban conditions and with a Fram Ultra oil filter and 5W30 synthetic oil "of the day" which results in my oil being dark brown , sooty and smells of fuel by 3,000 miles . For me , I'm rounding into a 3,750 mile severe service OR 150 hours on the oil (which ever comes first) with a good quality 5W30 synthetic oil (Super Tech , QSUD or a more expensive synthetic M1 , PPPP , Edge , etc. with a rebate .

 

[Ram02]

Originally Posted by Samrsnow
My girlfriend's 2016 Sonata has the 2.4 engine as well. I've had a hard time keeping the oil consumption under control to justify more than a 5k OCI. I'm about ready to bump viscosity up even more, been using 10w30 Penz Plat.


Change the pcv valve and do a engine flush

 

[ChrisD46]

+1 on the 2.4L ... Why I just got my recall notice from Hyundai to have new software added to detect impending engine failure via the knock sensor . Problem is 1 in about 3 who have the recall software installed experience worse engine issues than before they took their vehicle in to Hyundai ! Lastly , Hyundai has set aside $800 million to replace the 2.4L Theta II engines which STILL do not solve the problem of a bad Theta II design ! ... Stay away from this Hyundai / Kia 2.4L engine and you will avoid known poor design issues .
Originally Posted by tony1679
Definitely stay within Hyundai's recommendations if you're under warranty. I can't believe nobody has mentioned the Theta II engine failures

. Sure, it would be nice to get your money's worth out of the oil, but if you're part of the X% with a bad build, I sure wouldn't want to give Hyundai any ammo to fight a warrantied engine swap.

The Theta II is the reason I ended up choosing the 1.8L...

 

[JustinH]

Originally Posted by ChrisD46
+1 on the 2.4L ... Why I just got my recall notice from Hyundai to have new software added to detect impending engine failure via the knock sensor . Problem is 1 in about 3 who have the recall software installed experience worse engine issues than before they took their vehicle in to Hyundai ! Lastly , Hyundai has set aside $800 million to replace the 2.4L Theta II engines which STILL do not solve the problem of a bad Theta II design ! ... Stay away from this Hyundai / Kia 2.4L engine and you will avoid known poor design issues .
Originally Posted by tony1679
Definitely stay

within Hyundai's recommendations if you're under warranty. I can't believe nobody has mentioned the Theta II engine failures

. Sure, it would be nice to get your money's worth out of the oil, but if you're part of the X% with a bad build, I sure wouldn't want to give Hyundai any ammo to fight a warrantied engine swap.

The Theta II is the reason I ended up choosing the 1.8L...



I have been running the new PCM software for a couple months now. A couple comments. Driveability is much improved. Car does not ping on 89 octane, except once in a blue moon. Car overall runs better. Get it done.

Apparantly there is some tuning in there to put the car in limp home mode if the rods are knocking. Mine does not knock just light spark knock once in a while.

I've been happy with it on Shell 89 octane, and 3750 oil changes at the dealer for $26. Also a switch to 5w30 by Hyundai dealer has reduced oil consumption to nearly zero.

I'll stick with the dealer oil changes until the engine recall warranty runs out, then trade it on something else.

 

[ChrisD46]

Originally Posted by JustinH
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
+1 on the 2.4L ... Why I just got my recall notice from Hyundai to have new software added to detect impending engine failure via the knock sensor . Problem is 1 in about 3 who have the recall software installed experience worse engine issues than before they took their vehicle in to Hyundai ! Lastly , Hyundai has set aside $800 million to replace the 2.4L Theta II engines which STILL do not solve the problem of a bad Theta II design ! ... Stay away from this Hyundai / Kia 2.4L engine and you will avoid known poor design issues .
Originally Posted by tony1679
Definitely stay

within Hyundai's recommendations if you're under warranty. I can't believe nobody has mentioned the Theta II engine failures

. Sure, it would be nice to get your money's worth out of the oil, but if you're part of the X% with a bad build, I sure wouldn't want to give Hyundai any ammo to fight a warrantied engine swap.

The Theta II is the reason I ended up choosing the 1.8L...



I have been running the new PCM software for a couple months now. A couple comments. Driveability is much improved. Car does not ping on 89 octane, except once in a blue moon. Car overall runs better. Get it done.

Apparantly there is some tuning in there to put the car in limp home mode if the rods are knocking. Mine does not knock just light spark knock once in a while.

I've been happy with it on Shell 89 octane, and 3750 oil changes at the dealer for $26. Also a switch to 5w30 by Hyundai dealer has reduced oil consumption to nearly zero.

I'll stick with the dealer oil changes until the engine recall warranty runs out, then trade it on something else.

*I have heard some horror stories regarding the new software update causing failures in many affected Sonatas that were running fine before undergoing the software update - then there are others that have a positive experience as you have had ... I need to learn more first .

 

[StevieC]

^^ Chris, I wonder if the damage was already done and then shows up after the update and so they blame the update...

 

[caprice_2nv]

Originally Posted by StevieC
^^ Chris, I wonder if the damage was already done and then shows up after the update and so they blame the update...


That's my thoughts on it as well.

 

[JustinH]

Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by StevieC
^^ Chris, I wonder if the damage was already done and then shows up after the update and so they blame the update...


That's my thoughts on it as well.


From what I have read, if the car shows up at the dealer in limp home mode with those codes for rod knock the engine gets replaced.

I have heard of people getting rental cars from Hyundai for quite a while as the parts are not always quick to get.

So once your powertrain 10 year warranty 120k mile expires, and the car goes into limp home mode you have a boat anchor that you can't fix yourself.

Nor will it be cost effective to replace the engine, for $4500 when the car is worth $4000 or less at this point.

Again, I purchased my Sonata about 5 years ago for under $10k so I understand it is a throw away car.

I think these cars are failing due to requiring a lot more maintenance than the schedule indicates. Most of them use oil, people go too far between oil changes, and the engine should have never been rated for 87 octane due to it's high compression. My 2011 book says use 5w20 conventional Quaker State oil. It goes on to say that 5w30 or 10w30 may be used depending on temperature which is above freezing. Even the dealer has wised up and is dumping 5w30 semi syn into my car without even asking.

People who don't lift the hood for 5000 miles or more are going to be down on oil and throw a rod, and by that time the oil is spent anyways, and it has been spark knocking for its whole life due to a diet of 87 octane. That and it is notorious for oil pressure spikes, and the hyundai filter is almost a MUST HAVE, that thing is built like a bomb.

There are just too many maintenance items, and I didn't even get into the GDI intake cleaning services, or the Techron bottle that Hyundai recommends every 3000 miles.

I wouldn't let my wife have this car, it would be dead in short order.

 

[OilUzer]

Originally Posted by JustinH
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by StevieC
^^ Chris, I wonder if the damage was already done and then shows up after the update and so they blame the update...


That's my thoughts on it as well.


From what I have read, if the car shows up at the dealer in limp home mode with those codes for rod knock the engine gets replaced.

I have heard of people getting rental cars from Hyundai for quite a while as the parts are not always quick to get.

So once your powertrain 10 year warranty 120k mile expires, and the car goes into limp home mode you have a boat anchor that you can't fix yourself.

Nor will it be cost effective to replace the engine, for $4500 when the car is worth $4000 or less at this point.

Again, I purchased my Sonata about 5 years ago for under $10k so I understand it is a throw away car.

I think these cars are failing due to requiring a lot more maintenance than the schedule indicates. Most of them use oil, people go too far between oil changes, and the engine should have never been rated for 87 octane due to it's high compression. My 2011 book says use 5w20 conventional Quaker State oil. It goes on to say that 5w30 or 10w30 may be used depending on temperature which is above freezing. Even the dealer has wised up and is dumping 5w30 semi syn into my car without even asking.

People who don't lift the hood for 5000 miles or more are going to be down on oil and throw a rod, and by that time the oil is spent anyways, and it has been spark knocking for its whole life due to a diet of 87 octane. That and it is notorious for oil pressure spikes, and the hyundai filter is almost a MUST HAVE, that thing is built like a bomb.

There are just too many maintenance items, and I didn't even get into the GDI intake cleaning services, or the Techron bottle that Hyundai recommends every 3000 miles.

I wouldn't let my wife have this car, it would be dead in short order.


We have a 2.4 and I got an email couple weeks ago to make an appointment for the update ...
Is it just a software update only? Do you know the details?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Thankfully, this recall does not affect my recently purchased 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe.

 

[ChrisD46]

*Fram Ultra instead of OEM ? Possibility that the software update could be inducing other problems as Hyundai fiddles with trying to be proactive with other engine failures ?
Originally Posted by JustinH
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by StevieC
^^ Chris, I wonder if the damage was already done and then shows up after the update and so they blame the update...


That's my thoughts on it as well.


From what I have read, if the car shows up at the dealer in limp home mode with those codes for rod knock the engine gets replaced.

I have heard of people getting rental cars from Hyundai for quite a while as the parts are not always quick to get.

So once your powertrain 10 year warranty 120k mile expires, and the car goes into limp home mode you have a boat anchor that you can't fix yourself.

Nor will it be cost effective to replace the engine, for $4500 when the car is worth $4000 or less at this point.

Again, I purchased my Sonata about 5 years ago for under $10k so I understand it is a throw away car.

I think these cars are failing due to requiring a lot more maintenance than the schedule indicates. Most of them use oil, people go too far between oil changes, and the engine should have never been rated for 87 octane due to it's high compression. My 2011 book says use 5w20 conventional Quaker State oil. It goes on to say that 5w30 or 10w30 may be used depending on temperature which is above freezing. Even the dealer has wised up and is dumping 5w30 semi syn into my car without even asking.

People who don't lift the hood for 5000 miles or more are going to be down on oil and throw a rod, and by that time the oil is spent anyways, and it has been spark knocking for its whole life due to a diet of 87 octane. That and it is notorious for oil pressure spikes, and the hyundai filter is almost a MUST HAVE, that thing is built like a bomb.

There are just too many maintenance items, and I didn't even get into the GDI intake cleaning services, or the Techron bottle that Hyundai recommends every 3000 miles.

I wouldn't let my wife have this car, it would be dead in short order.

 

[Robster]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Thankfully, this recall does not affect my recently purchased 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe.


T7, your 2019 Santa Fe should be good to go. I just checked my VIN at the Hyundai campaign website and there are currently no open campaigns or recalls for it--it should have come off the line with the latest software / mechanical updates. Mine was built in November 2018.

Here's the website link if you want to run your VIN: https://autoservice.hyundaiusa.com/campaignhome

 

[69Torino]

Quote
From what I have read, if the car shows up at the dealer in limp home mode with those codes for rod knock the engine gets replaced.





There are no OBD codes for rod knock. Nor will it be in limp mode due to rod knock. It may be underpowered from the added parasitic drag of a spun bearing, but limp mode is a TCM (Transmission Controller) DTC. The one condition the car will derate power for an engine problem is for throttle position sensor correlation problems between the TPS and APS (throttle position sensor and accelerator position sensor), and even then the DTC is "forced limit power". Unrelated to rod knock completely. Sorry, had to straighten up this info for anyone who may be reading so that incorrect information isn't regurgitated to an eye-rolling dealership service writer.

 

[JustinH]

Originally Posted by 69Torino
Quote
From what I have read, if the car shows up at the dealer in limp home mode with those codes for rod knock the engine gets replaced.





There are no OBD codes for rod knock. Nor will it be in limp mode due to rod knock. It may be underpowered from the added parasitic drag of a spun bearing, but limp mode is a TCM (Transmission Controller) DTC. The one condition the car will derate power for an engine problem is for throttle position sensor correlation problems between the TPS and APS (throttle position sensor and accelerator position sensor), and even then the DTC is "forced limit power". Unrelated to rod knock completely. Sorry, had to straighten up this info for anyone who may be reading so that incorrect information isn't regurgitated to an eye-rolling dealership service writer.


https://www.prnewswire.com/news-rel...d-santa-fe-sport-vehicles-300779640.html

Here is my source, the knock sensor software has been updated, and if it detects a certain frequency of knock it will put the car in limp home mode. I'm not sure exactly what codes are set but I have read further on forums that Hyundai dealers know when the car is in limp home mode due to engine knocking.

No misinformation here sir!

 

[dubber09]

I'd suggest 5w-30 synth blend or full synth oil and OEM 26300-35504 filter.
That -35504 made both of my Kias run much smoother with same Penn Platt oil.

One way to prolong this engine's life is to replace catalytic converter at or before about 100K miles. They disintegrate and ceramic filler dust gets back into cylinders forming abrasive paste. Then [censored] breaks loose.

 

[tony1679]

Originally Posted by dubber09
I'd suggest 5w-30 synth blend or full synth oil and OEM 26300-35504 filter.
That -35504 made both of my Kias run much smoother with same Penn Platt oil.

One way to prolong this engine's life is to replace catalytic converter at or before about 100K miles. They disintegrate and ceramic filler dust gets back into cylinders forming abrasive paste. Then [censored] breaks loose.


What? Last I checked exhaust (cat) is a one-way street...