Scania DI13

[Mattskii89]

I recently purchased a Scania DI13 088M
https://www.scania.com/content/dam/.../pdf/specs/marine/DI13088_552kW_2300.pdf
And have been thinking of putting synth in it, Scania recommends 15-40 at 250 hours changes but I would like to extend that a bit if possible
The boat will put about 600 hours a year on the engine and operate in summer months exclusively operating at about 50 to 80 degree's outside ambient temperature with it getting over 100 in the engine room where the air intake is probably. 2500-3200 gallons of fuel burn in that time. the engine has a nine to 10 gallon oil capacity
I was thinking of using T6 from shell but there seem to be quite a few suppliers of synth with different attributes and fuel change cycles, what do more knowledgeable people about oil suggest for prioritising the health of the engine followed by economics? would be great if I could do just one oil change a year but not necessary.

 

[Danno]

Given its a new engine under warranty, I would stay with scania oil change recommendations.

 

[Mattskii89]

its for one year, and the boat operates so remotely the warranty is basically garbage, I probably will stick with the regular intervals for year one though, then if I can extend it out I will.
further info on what they suggest lifted form here, it doesn't appear like they have any different information for full synths available. Makes me wonder if I could run strait 40 weight oil also 🤔 and if there would be an advantage.
http://toolbox.scaniausa.com/DI 13m OP.pdf

SAE 20W-30
-15°C (5°F) - +30°C (86°F)
SAE 30
-10°C (14°F) - +30°C (86°F)
SAE 40
-5°C (23°F) - +45°C (113°F)
SAE 50
0°C (32°F) - +45°C (113°F)
SAE 5W-30
< -40°C (-40°F) - +30°C (86°F)
SAE 10W-30
-25°C (-13°F) - +30°C (86°F)
SAE 15W-40
-20°C (-4°F) - +45°C (113°F)

"• ACEA E5/API CI-4.
• ACEA E7/API CI-4 +.
• For engines not run on low-sulphur fuel, the TBN (Total Base Number) should be at least 12 (ASTM D2896).
• Oils with a low ash content (ACEA E9/API CJ4) are not recommended."

this can be found on page 27

 

[Mattskii89]

I would like to correct myself, this is a new engine for me. it looks like oil changes with 15-40 are at 500 hours(as stated on maintenance intervals on page 26) I'm new to this engine and just assumed it was like very other older heavy duty diesel I've worked on, makes it all the more better if I could use something after my warranty expires to eek out that last 100 hours!

 

[dnewton3]

I presume that the engine will come up to temp for long periods; no short runs (or at least minimal short runs)? If so, then a good qualify conventional 15w-40 meeting the OEM specs would do fine.

As for OCI extensions, the best way to do that is with UOAs. For your first few OCIs, just follow the OEM schedule and flush out all the break-in wear particles. Then after a season or two, you can start considering extended OCIs. Use the UOAs to help you with small extensions at first, then edge your way out a bit at a time, with each successively longer OCI utilizing UOA confirmation. If really long OCIs are your ultimate goal, then consider BP filtration if not present already.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted by dnewton3

I presume that the engine will come up to temp for long periods; no short runs (or at least minimal short runs)? If so, then a good qualify conventional 15w-40 meeting the OEM specs would do fine.

As for OCI extensions, the best way to do that is with UOAs. For your first few OCIs, just follow the OEM schedule and flush out all the break-in wear particles. Then after a season or two, you can start considering extended OCIs. Use the UOAs to help you with small extensions at first, then edge your way out a bit at a time, with each successively longer OCI utilizing UOA confirmation. If really long OCIs are your ultimate goal, then consider BP filtration if not present already.


This is the way to go. I am guessing that is a $ 50,000.00 + engine? Oil changes keep the engine happy. Pics of the boat? I like boats. Is the engine room have a heater?

 

[Mattskii89]

Its a 72 thousand dollar engine and then another 10 in random parts and maybe another 15 in labor, and then some more odds and ends, like I need a new exhaust, its 6 out but the muffler needs to be 8 inch for back pressure, I had everything 6 inch before for a cat C12. So probably 100 grand plus or minus, thankfully I don't need a new gear. I'm out of town until the 15th but first start up is the beginning of next week, I can have some picks then!&the engine room doesn't have a heater, it gets toasty down there when things get going, its only going in June and July also , it's a summer boat.

So its for a commercial rig(Bristol Bay) it would be nice if I could play with it to hit the full 600 hours on one change, you get so blasted doing 22 hour days a lot of the time the last thing you want to do it go change the oil, easy to lose track of days/hour/time to when your working it really hard, I'll probably keep up my regular routine and change at 250 hours, there is usually(we always hope) a lull in fishing around the middle fo the season for 12-36 hours and probably better to error on the side of caution. I will definitely do everything on OEM this first year though just so I can get some good labs done to see if its feasible to push it a bit more.

Is there any benefit to running a synth in that situation? 🤔 like would a 20% increase in oil longevity possibly be feasible, even if I used one of these fancy brands, I feel like some days I would pay the extra 500 bucks just for an hour of sleep ...‚

 

[Fitter30]

Why not pull a oil sample for testing.

 

[Dodgetracker]

T6 is supposed to be sold in a 15w40 syn now. You could check into that at Wal-Mart I've heard its there. Hit or miss in some areas though.

 

[Garak]

Those specs are sort of confusing - go figure. Scania LDF and LDF-2 are recommended in the manual. The same page recommends against CJ-4 and E9, whereas LDF and LDF-2 specifically list CJ-4 and E9 and E6 as three of the five possible prerequisites for obtaining Scania long drain approval. I suppose then that a marine lube that happens to carry LDF or LDF-2 would be ideal.

 

[m37charlie]

I fished in the Bay for 10 years, had a 3208 in a Rawson . Normally an oil change at the beginning of the season is enough if you just fish reds. If you also fish herring and silvers and humpies on even numbered years you MIGHT want to change oil in the mid season but I think it is waste of money and more importantly time. The fuel is ULSD; if you really put on 600h a lot of it must be idling running RSW. Idling under light load interspersed with running, engine always warm, is an easy duty cycle. What is hardest on BB engines is winter layup.
I'd just change once a year.
Oils available in Dillingham and Naknek I suspect are now mainly 15W40 1% ash like whatever Chevron Delo is replacing old Delo 400 Multigrade. Make sure it has an E7/MB228.3 rating as well as E9/228.31. And don't let anyone talk you into a 10W or 15W30 for this application.

 

[m37charlie]

Run a UOA when you change if it will help sleep during closures. A UOA after my 25600mile trip to Mongolia and back with a MB906 made me feel good.
Every factoid is in favor of long OCI. ULSD, large sump, few cold starts, moderate specific fuel consumption with the RSW, lack of advanced emissions devices. If it has EGR figure out a way to remove it. They tend to fail at the worst possible time and can dump coolant into the intake, VERY BAD for the engine. If you have to add a few liters every 100h even better, it freshens the oil. Until you know its' consumption pattern carry a couple of gallons of spare oil though I am sure you already know that.
Midway through my fishing career I sold the Rawson and bought a new aluminum boat with 12L Volvo and RSW "3 Sisters " Ever seen it?
Sink your gear!! ?In the Nushagak?