I had a problem with a GFCI popping when I turned ON my pool lights, water had gotten into the lights so I replaced the gaskets dried it all out and put it back together AND replaced the GFCI for good measure. Now my lights work fine BUT when I turn them OFF the GFCI pops and I have to reset it to turn the lights on again. I give up, two local electricians I know couldn't offer any ideas. Any thoughts?
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any electricians out there. GFCI problem
- Thread starter another Todd
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Bad switch.
Did you test the old GFCI? If you still have it you should test and reinstall if it is still good. The new one could be defective, or be the wrong amperage. I suppose you could always borrow one from your washroom or kitchen and try it on your pool light circuit if they are the same amperage.
You could also check the resistance of the pool lights to see if one of them are damaged. It's not a conclusive test but if they are not all around value then you know something is wrong.
If you change multiple parts and then have issues, I always try to return it to original condition if possible and start to isolate components.
It could also be a loose connection somewhere. Maybe a connector on the lights got damaged from the water or disassembly/reassembly.
You could also check the resistance of the pool lights to see if one of them are damaged. It's not a conclusive test but if they are not all around value then you know something is wrong.
If you change multiple parts and then have issues, I always try to return it to original condition if possible and start to isolate components.
It could also be a loose connection somewhere. Maybe a connector on the lights got damaged from the water or disassembly/reassembly.
Is the neutral wire from the lights on the line or load side of the gfci. It should be on the the load side and the neutral from the panel on the line side.
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another Todd
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Originally Posted by E365
What kind of switch controls the lights? Interior? Exterior, exposed to elements too? Have you replaced that also?
Switch is an indoor type in a Weathertite aluminum box. I did not replace it.
What kind of switch controls the lights? Interior? Exterior, exposed to elements too? Have you replaced that also?
Switch is an indoor type in a Weathertite aluminum box. I did not replace it.
another Todd
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Originally Posted by Fitter30
Is the neutral wire from the lights on the line or load side of the gfci. It should be on the the load side and the neutral from the panel on the line side.
This I am not sure, will have to pull it out (when it stops raining) and check.
Is the neutral wire from the lights on the line or load side of the gfci. It should be on the the load side and the neutral from the panel on the line side.
This I am not sure, will have to pull it out (when it stops raining) and check.
another Todd
Thread starter
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Did you test the old GFCI? If you still have it you should test and reinstall if it is still good. The new one could be defective, or be the wrong amperage. I suppose you could always borrow one from your washroom or kitchen and try it on your pool light circuit if they are the same amperage.
You could also check the resistance of the pool lights to see if one of them are damaged. It's not a conclusive test but if they are not all around value then you know something is wrong.
If you change multiple parts and then have issues, I always try to return it to original condition if possible and start to isolate components.
It could also be a loose connection somewhere. Maybe a connector on the lights got damaged from the water or disassembly/reassembly.
Old GFCI thrown out. Amperage should not be an issue, two 300 watt lights on their own 15 amp circuit, the outlets on the GFCI itself are rarely used and nothing is plugged into them, and the outlet works fine with other electrical devices.
Did you test the old GFCI? If you still have it you should test and reinstall if it is still good. The new one could be defective, or be the wrong amperage. I suppose you could always borrow one from your washroom or kitchen and try it on your pool light circuit if they are the same amperage.
You could also check the resistance of the pool lights to see if one of them are damaged. It's not a conclusive test but if they are not all around value then you know something is wrong.
If you change multiple parts and then have issues, I always try to return it to original condition if possible and start to isolate components.
It could also be a loose connection somewhere. Maybe a connector on the lights got damaged from the water or disassembly/reassembly.
Old GFCI thrown out. Amperage should not be an issue, two 300 watt lights on their own 15 amp circuit, the outlets on the GFCI itself are rarely used and nothing is plugged into them, and the outlet works fine with other electrical devices.
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Are you sure you bought a gfci and not an afci? There is a difference.
Hire an actual electrician. Don't just ask friends for favors even if they are electricians. There are many different types of electricians and several of them are not good at troubleshooting.
I am an electrician.
I have tried to fix pool lights used in non pool applications and there is not much that can be done to fix them once they leak.
Hire an actual electrician. Don't just ask friends for favors even if they are electricians. There are many different types of electricians and several of them are not good at troubleshooting.
I am an electrician.
I have tried to fix pool lights used in non pool applications and there is not much that can be done to fix them once they leak.
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another Todd
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I am familiar with AFCIs and this is a GFCI. AFCIs are designed to ignore "normal" arcs that could occur from opening a switch or running an electric motor, so even if it was an AFCI, it shouldn't act like the issue I have.
another Todd
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Now that I have had time to get back to it:
1. The neutral wire from the lights is on the load side as it should be. The hot going to the switch is also on the load side as it should be.
2. It is a GFCI not an AFCI.
As a reminder to those trying to help me, the lights work fine, it is only when you flip the switch to turn them OFF that the GFCI trips, no other time.
I will replace the switch to see if that helps.
1. The neutral wire from the lights is on the load side as it should be. The hot going to the switch is also on the load side as it should be.
2. It is a GFCI not an AFCI.
As a reminder to those trying to help me, the lights work fine, it is only when you flip the switch to turn them OFF that the GFCI trips, no other time.
I will replace the switch to see if that helps.
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