Best oil/fluids for 2008 Lexus GX470?

[OldEuroCarLover]

I'm looking for a good year round oil that can do ~10k miles. I don't care about the price--just whatever can handle those miles the best. Mostly highway driving, no short trips. Northeastern climate, so something that can handle cold starts below freezing. ~20k miles per year.

The engine currently has 95k miles on it.

Also, please tell me if you think I should make that interval shorter, or even extend it. Or if I should try to run different oils for summer and winter. I'm not yet familiar with this vehicle/engine.

I'm also very open to recommendations for the differentials, transfer case, auto trans, and power steering. (I'm assuming I should go with the pink Toyota stuff in the radiator.)

Thanks!

 

[das_peikko]

The best engine oil is Chevron Supreme (but not at 10k miles). The best oil filter is NAPA Platinum. The best coolant is Prestone Dexcool. I'll let somebody else recommend the power steering and trans fluid.

 

[Garak]

For antifreeze, I'd be cautious. Dexcool "might" be best for the vehicle, but OEM is usually a sensible bet. GM was wise and lucky enough to license out Dexcool and have many other brands market it and many locations sell it.

As for oil, I wouldn't bother switching oils between winter and summer. I would gather the viscosity for that vehicle in that vintage would be a 5w-30, which will be suitable year round. If you're looking to go 10,000 miles, choose your favourite brand synthetic and you should have no problem. That's assuming, of course, that someone here with experience with that particular application doesn't let us know that they have a tendency to sludge or something like that.

 

[Railrust]

I owned a 2007 Lexus LS460 for five years, you had to be careful with that engine because it was direct injection and going 10,000 miles was a lot, but I believe the GX 470 is not direct injected. I'm assuming you're supposed to run 5w30 in the 470, therefore I wouldn't suggest the very good Toyota 0w20 synthetic (which a lot of guys ran in their Lexus's back then). If money is no object I'd run Amsoil...if you want to run something simple off the shelf, I'd go with an extended performance oil by Mobil 1.

As for fluids, I definitely would stay with the WS Toyota transmission fluid and Toyota Long Life pink. As for gear oil...did they go with the 75w85 in the GX 470? Because if so, I wouldn't be afraid to go with 75w90...it's a little thicker and it's readily available. I'd probably just go Mobil 1 Synthetic for that.

 

[JMJNet]

If you really wants the best ATF and Differential, I suggest the Amsoil equivalent ATF and Differential/Gear Oil.

Then you don't have to replace it for a long time.
You can use the ATF as PS fluid also, if it has the same spec as any Toyota out there.

 

[Dino01]

The 4.7 is notoriously durable and easy on oil, any big name synthetic should handle 10k. I run M1 for 10k in the Tundra in my sig, but I've also used Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, and so on. Use an OE filter and a big name syn and motor happily. Oh and 5w30 syn should be no sweat year round, mine has been in the mountains well below zero with 5w30 and had no issues.

For diffs and t case, I'm guessing they're speced for 75w90, right now the Tundra has M1 in it but just with the oil I've used them all. I'm about to change them again and have Valvoline sitting in the garage, any big name 75w90 like M1 or Valvoline will be fine there. Definitely stick with OEM Toyota pink coolant and OEM WS ATF though. Not sure if your power steering os different than mine, but I'm speced for DexIII atf so I just turkey baster a reservoir worth of ATF out every year or so and keep it fresh with some cheap Supertech ATF

 

[NYSteve]

I have an 2008. The 4.7 is super reliable and really easy on oil, especially in your use. At 10k changes, any synthetic 5w30 or 0w30 will work. Depending on budget and feelz, you can go off the shelf or up to boutique like Amsoil. Fram Ultra 3614 is the best filter you can get but again any reputable filter will work here.

Diffs and transfer case, 80w-90 is reco'd but most everyone uses 75w-90. I personally like either Redline or Amsoil here as they are hard to beat for best of category.

Power steering does use ATF Dex3. Again lots of options. I currently have Amsoil ATF and will switch to Redline Power Steering next flush.

Coolant - I just used OEM premix from the dealer. Just easier not to worry about it.

Transmission - I did a full flush with Amsoil thin ATF (whatever they reco). Planning on going 50k miles with it.

Other things:
- Driveshafts have grease fittings so you will need a grease gun.
- Timing belt is due between 90k and 105k miles. You absolutely can DIY it (I did it 2 months ago), just takes some time and need a couple tools to make it work.
- Brake calipers tend to freeze and need replacing
- Check your axle boots in the front.
- Most 4runner 4th gen hardware fits the GX (suspension, engine stuff, etc). More and more of a GX aftermarket is popping up for roof racks etc.

Resources for you:
- https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/
- https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/120-series-toyotas.207/
- GXOR Facebook Group

 

[Gebo]

Opinion based on my ownership of a GX470...Only use Toyota Pink, Long Life antifreeze. If price doesn't matter, I would go all in with Amsoil lubricants. I used Amsoil SS 5w-30, Amsoil Blue Bottle ATF in the Transmission, Amsoil Red Bottle ATF in the Power Steering, Amsoil 75w-90 Severe Gear in the Squeeze Bottle for the Rear End.

Now, changing the ATF is a little tricky. There is no stick. If you are assuming the level is correct, make sure the ATF is cold and drain out and measure what came out. Should be around 3-3.5 qts. Then replace it with the same temp ATF. It is a PITB. I did it 3 times
over a week of driving to get about as much replaced as I could. DO NOT DRAIN HOT OR WARM as the ATF expands when heated. IF you drain hot and replace cold you will be overfilling your transmission.

As far as filters, I only use Toyota Air filters and Toyota Oil filters. I still have about 20 of the old Japan made oil filters. I honestly don't know what filter I will use once I run out of the old Japan oil filters. I will probably just use the Toyota OEM. And I would
only buy Toyota stuff from Toyota. Too many copycats on Amazon and eBay. Just be cautious.

I cannot go 10K OCI. I go 5K. I'd go 1/2 the miles on antifreeze (probably 50K) ATF and rear end replacement every 50k as well.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted by das_peikko
The best engine oil is Chevron Supreme (but not at 10k miles). The best oil filter is NAPA Platinum. The best coolant is Prestone Dexcool. I'll let somebody else recommend the power steering and trans fluid.

Dexcool would be a huge no

 

[Toy4x4]

I have an '07 4Runner with the same V8 so here is what I use. I only drive about 5k a year so I change the oil once a year.

M1 0w40.
Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90.
Amsoil ATF SS Fuel Efficient for transmission.
Redline ATF D4 for power steering.
OEM PINK coolant.
OEM oil filter.
OEM air filter.

 

[ekpolk]

We had an 01 Sequoia that had that engine. After break-in, for what little it was worth in this case, that engine was about as smooth and problem-free as they come. IIRC (we traded it for the Avalon back in 07), it uses a timing belt, not chain. So yes, you'd have to do the belt, but no worries about a chain and its hardware. I used basic M1 5w-30 for its whole uneventful life (with me). Unless it has been wrecked, I imagine it's out there somewhere today purring along for another lucky owner.

As for the engine, there's only one thing, and I hesitate to even call a complaint. That was its torque response. As a 4.7L, it's a bit on the smallish side for a V-8. This may be less of an issue in your lighter vehicle, but I wish they had tuned the engine and trans to do torque at lower rpms. When you stepped on it, it immediately went to high rpms to do its work. It sang a very nice, smooth sweet song, it just wasn't the song I usually wanted to hear. I still loved the UZ series engine, but a GM 5.3 or 6.xL is better suited to this situation. I haven't driven one, but I imagine the Toyota 5.7L is the answer to this complaint.

The ONLY other problem we had -- a couple bad parking brake cables. Relevance? These vehicles are pretty durable, so I think you have a lot of leeway in fluid selection. No problem in wanting to do the best you can, but no disaster if you don't achieve ultimate perfection. In other words, decide, act, and then enjoy your vehicle!

 

[maverickfhs]

Very beautiful, ultra durable and really low mileage too.

Good luck

 

[maxdustington]

Skip the boutiques and run Edge 0W40 and Maxlife in anything that takes ATF, don't forget your Lubegard Red in the trans. Boutiques are fine for differentials if you don't submerge them in water.

Fram Ultra x2 10k OCIs is what I would run if I were driving 20k miles per year.

Chnage your brake fluid if it's due while you are at it. I've read that low viscosity brake fluid can improve ABS performance in cars that were originally intended to use normal viscosity.

 

[das_peikko]

Originally Posted by CT8
Dexcool would be a huge no


Why ?

 

[Dino01]

I know of absolutely no reason to put Lubegard in those very durable auto transmissions, just fresh WS every 50k or so. Not saying it's a bad product, but I had the same trans in my 4runner and they're very reliable with moderate services using correct fluid every so often, no additives needed

 

[madeej11]

Your Lexus calls for 5w30. I like Amsoil SS at 10k intervals but there are others that will be adequate for that distance. Tranny fluid if you want a real durable synthetic ATF then use Amsoil's Fuel Efficient blue cap not red cap every 60k miles. The dealer OEM WS fluid is not synthetic.Use Toyota Super Long Life pre-mixed coolant not Long Life, there is a difference. As far as filters go the Toyota OEM oil filter is good for 10k but no more. Air filter same suggestion, Toyota OEM which could last you maybe three years depending on mileage and if the conditions are dusty. Don't get oversold on the air filter and don't open up the air filter box more than necessary. Dealerships and service centers are notorious for selling unsuspecting customers an unnecessary air filter replacement. Easy money.

 

[OldEuroCarLover]

Thanks, everyone! This was a ton of very good info.

I haven't purchased this car yet, but I'm going to if tomorrow's PPI goes well.

If 5w30 is the recommended oil, would a thin 40 be okay? I've had euro cars up to now, and have almost always used one of four oils: M1TDT 5w40, Rotella T6 5w40, M1 0w40 or Castrol Edge 0w40. I'm leaning toward either the Castrol or M1 0w40, but I would also like to do whatever I can to help with fuel economy for this gas hungry V8. (Also considering running regular instead of premium gas, but I'm still foggy on if that's okay for this application.)

Originally Posted by NYSteve

- Timing belt is due between 90k and 105k miles. You absolutely can DIY it (I did it 2 months ago), just takes some time and need a couple tools to make it work.


How intense of a job is this, and what tools would I need? I got a quote from an independent mechanic that seemed reasonable: ~$1400 for all factory parts and they'd do the "water pump and thermostat and crankshaft seal and tensioner and idler pulley and various o-rings." I'd typically never consider a mechanic for something like that, but I'm time crunched for the next few weeks and I don't have a lot of my tools where I am right now. (I'd probably end up at Harbor Freight.)

I am indeed leaning toward Amsoil for the other stuff, unless I find some unbeatable deal for something comparable somewhere.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted by das_peikko
Originally Posted by CT8
Dexcool would be a huge no


Why ?

This simplest answer would be that it's not the approved coolant for the vehicle. You suggested that it would be the best coolant. Now, I'm one who's gone out of spec on more than one occasion, all the while being able to explain and rationalise why I have done so. That included using a dexclone in a European application. Since the OP isn't sure, and I'm not sure, why would Dexcool be the best coolant for a 2008 Lexus GX470?

 

[NYSteve]

Originally Posted by OldEuroCarLover

Originally Posted by NYSteve

- Timing belt is due between 90k and 105k miles. You absolutely can DIY it (I did it 2 months ago), just takes some time and need a couple tools to make it work.


How intense of a job is this, and what tools would I need? I got a quote from an independent mechanic that seemed reasonable: ~$1400 for all factory parts and they'd do the "water pump and thermostat and crankshaft seal and tensioner and idler pulley and various o-rings." I'd typically never consider a mechanic for something like that, but I'm time crunched for the next few weeks and I don't have a lot of my tools where I am right now. (I'd probably end up at Harbor Freight.)

I am indeed leaning toward Amsoil for the other stuff, unless I find some unbeatable deal for something comparable somewhere.



https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...iming-belt-replacement-2uz-fe-vvt-i.html

This is the best thread you should read/watch the videos. The biggest hurdle is removing the crank bolt, the AC bolts are a pain, and I had to struggle to pull the water pump off. However, I did it in my garage with handtools and was sick that week. I also reco replacing the accessory belt tensioner and idler pulley as they are not included. Depending how close you are to Philly, can always help.

I was quoted $1700 which is just absurd.

Keep us posted what you thought of the vehicle.

 

[nthach]

Those Toyota UZ-series V8s will live a long, happy life on any good 5W/10W-30. I've taken a 1990s LS400 with the 4.0L 1UZ-FE to almost 300K with whatever oil I got on sale, the last 60K before the car got scrapped was with high-mileage synthetics. I plan on using M1EP/AP on my parents LS430.

Stick to WS or MaxLife for ATF, and pink Toyota coolant(or Zerex Asian Formula/GC Pink coolant). There are guys out there that are using Prestone or Peak Global with no ill effects. Not my first choice in coolants but Toyota does have a loose definition of suitable coolants. And Prestone Cor-Guard does fit that loose Toyota definition of a "coolant with low levels of organic acids and phosphates" save for the 2-EHA and decanoic acid for the organic acid part.