A year or so back I had the new SK replace a 14mm SK socket I cracked back in the 1990's. Today I cracked the replacement with my Carlyle locking flex head ratchet. (The rest of my 90's SK socket set continues to give yeoman service.)
The Dakota 4WD FSM replacement procedure for the front wheel bearing assembly is to remove the knuckle first, but the job can be done on-vehicle if a.) the stub axle isn't stuck and b.) if you can get a socket or wrench in the tight space on the three bolt heads that hold on the hub from the back of the knuckle. They are tight against the CV joint and the shock is right behind them, so 1/2" tools and thick impact stuff is out. So, I went right to my quality chrome 3/8" sockets. You can see the results in the pics below.
I ended up using a Stahlwille Stabil 14mm/15mm, an EZ-Red magnetic wrench extender, and a long pattern 6 point SK 14mm. The FSM torque for that screw is 123 ft/lbs, given the length of my wrench setup and my (not inconsiderable) body weight, I estimate removal torque was well past twice that. When the first one started easing down I though "oh crap I'm rounding off the head" but no it was just steady STIFF resistance until I got to almost a full turn. I had to tap on and off the 14mm end of the Stahlwille wrench. I tried to get the SK's box end on there, but both vertical and horizontal clearance was an issue, which is why I started out with the socket.
Once unbolted, the hub laughed at my 10# Craftsman (really Bosch/OTC) slide hammer. Viewing a few Youtube videos, the preferred removal technique is to wail on it from behind at the one place you can with an Engineer's hammer, which worked pretty quickly.
Yes, I had 3 new Mopar mounting bolts and a new Mopar axle nut. With so much riding on that assembly I wasn't going to cheap out and re-use parts. The new axle nut was not strictly necessary on the 4WD, it is a one-time use item (nylon locking nut) on the 2WD. My old one was fine, but I had a new one so I used it. I used a new Timken hub assembly, box and bearing retainer are marked "Made in USA."
Total cost of all parts (bearing/hub assembly, 3 Mopar Bolts and one Mopar nut) from RockAuto including shipping was $129.47. I quite enjoyed the test drive. With 4 new Michelins and the howling wheel bearing gone, it's like a new truck.
The Dakota 4WD FSM replacement procedure for the front wheel bearing assembly is to remove the knuckle first, but the job can be done on-vehicle if a.) the stub axle isn't stuck and b.) if you can get a socket or wrench in the tight space on the three bolt heads that hold on the hub from the back of the knuckle. They are tight against the CV joint and the shock is right behind them, so 1/2" tools and thick impact stuff is out. So, I went right to my quality chrome 3/8" sockets. You can see the results in the pics below.
I ended up using a Stahlwille Stabil 14mm/15mm, an EZ-Red magnetic wrench extender, and a long pattern 6 point SK 14mm. The FSM torque for that screw is 123 ft/lbs, given the length of my wrench setup and my (not inconsiderable) body weight, I estimate removal torque was well past twice that. When the first one started easing down I though "oh crap I'm rounding off the head" but no it was just steady STIFF resistance until I got to almost a full turn. I had to tap on and off the 14mm end of the Stahlwille wrench. I tried to get the SK's box end on there, but both vertical and horizontal clearance was an issue, which is why I started out with the socket.
Once unbolted, the hub laughed at my 10# Craftsman (really Bosch/OTC) slide hammer. Viewing a few Youtube videos, the preferred removal technique is to wail on it from behind at the one place you can with an Engineer's hammer, which worked pretty quickly.
Yes, I had 3 new Mopar mounting bolts and a new Mopar axle nut. With so much riding on that assembly I wasn't going to cheap out and re-use parts. The new axle nut was not strictly necessary on the 4WD, it is a one-time use item (nylon locking nut) on the 2WD. My old one was fine, but I had a new one so I used it. I used a new Timken hub assembly, box and bearing retainer are marked "Made in USA."
Total cost of all parts (bearing/hub assembly, 3 Mopar Bolts and one Mopar nut) from RockAuto including shipping was $129.47. I quite enjoyed the test drive. With 4 new Michelins and the howling wheel bearing gone, it's like a new truck.