Mazda SkyActiv 2.5 Turbo...what oil?

I've been happy with the new Valvoline offerings. Really happy. I've run Advanced maybe some Modern Engine users can chime in. I think only your drive regimen will combat dilution.
 
Originally Posted by Ws6
What is the best 5-30 for combatting valve deposit, fuel diltion, etc?


Any suitable oil that is changed twice as often as in the manual.
 
Originally Posted by Ws6
What is the best 5-30 for combatting valve deposit, fuel diltion, etc?

Oil is oil ,, any of the majors products with the proper specs will do the job. Valve deposits are from the blow by and fuel dilution is from the DI,,, oil choice will not change any of that.
 
Originally Posted by Pelican
Originally Posted by Ws6
What is the best 5-30 for combatting valve deposit, fuel diltion, etc?
Any suitable oil that is changed twice as often as in the manual.
You don't have to change your oil weekly when having fuel dilution. Some of us don't like that.

---------You can choose an oil that is a little extra thick to combat fuel dilution thinning over a full, normal, oil change interval. On the high side of a 5w-30 range is Rotella Gas Truck dexos1 5w30, or Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 or Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle 5w30. (amazon or walmart)

--------- If you use just any oil that might the on the thin side, you could simply add in Schaeffer Moly EP #132 or STP Oil Treatment, both oil thickeners, halfway through an oil change interval to boost viscosity a small amount, especially important in the hot months. amazon-walmart
 
Last edited:
I plan to use the flexible oil schedule the car has, OR 5K miles, whichever comes first. I don't do "short trips" and the engine always gets up to op temp.

I know any oil will likely work, but don't mind spending a few bucks for the best options, provided Wal-Mart has them on the shelf.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Ws6
I know any oil will likely work, but don't mind spending a few bucks for the best options, provided Wal-Mart has them on the shelf.
Then try Mobil1 Annual Protection 5w30, at 11.7 kv100 it is also on the thick side of the 5w30 range, to counter possible fuel dilution, and is their latest chemistry. You could lose 2.4 cSt of viscosity over a full oil change interval and still be in the "30" acceptable range.
 
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by Ws6
What is the best 5-30 for combatting valve deposit, fuel diltion, etc?

Oil is oil ,, any of the majors products with the proper specs will do the job. Valve deposits are from the blow by and fuel dilution is from the DI,,, oil choice will not change any of that.


Don't the new SN+ oils have less calcium that was contributing to valve deposits in DI engines...and have additional levels of magnesium? If that is the case then an oil can help change/control that....
 
Originally Posted by tenderloin
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by Ws6
What is the best 5-30 for combatting valve deposit, fuel diltion, etc?

Oil is oil ,, any of the majors products with the proper specs will do the job. Valve deposits are from the blow by and fuel dilution is from the DI,,, oil choice will not change any of that.


Don't the new SN+ oils have less calcium that was contributing to valve deposits in DI engines...and have additional levels of magnesium? If that is the case then an oil can help change/control that....


No
 
Originally Posted by tenderloin
Don't the new SN+ oils have less calcium that was contributing to valve deposits in DI engines...and have additional levels of magnesium? If that is the case then an oil can help change/control that....


Less calcium, yes, but not for the reason you mentioned.
 
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by tenderloin
Don't the new SN+ oils have less calcium that was contributing to valve deposits in DI engines...and have additional levels of magnesium? If that is the case then an oil can help change/control that....


Less calcium, yes, but not for the reason you mentioned.


HOW CAN LSPI PROBLEMS BE SOLVED?
Unfortunately there is not one root cause of LSPI, but research indicates that the lubricants used can play a role in combatting this issue. Calcium containing additives are strongly associated with LSPI, therefore a fundamental change in additive technology can mitigate LSPI. API SN Plus is only the first step in this battle with LSPI, with more formulary changes to be addressed with the upcoming ILSAC GF-6 category.
Total


How does API SN PLUS address LSPI?
A motor oil works thanks to an ingredient called the engine detergent, which keeps soot, dirt and other debris from interfering with the lubricant. Traditional motor oils use calcium and/or magnesium for this. However, research has shown that oils with a lower calcium and higher magnesium composition lead to fewer incidents of LSPI. Oils that meet API SN PLUS standards use more magnesium for the engine detergent, making them far less susceptible to LSPI.
Cenex
 
Originally Posted by tenderloin
Don't the new SN+ oils have less calcium that was contributing to valve deposits in DI engines...and have additional levels of magnesium?..
Lower Ca and higher Mg is wise to get, which goes along with both SN+ and dexos1 Gen2 performance requirements for minimizing the chances of getting LSPI events, is a wise choice for this Mazda. Almost all the full syns these days are SN+ and/or dexos1 Gen2, which is all you need to see on the label.
One oil that claims to fight carbon on the valves is https://team.valvoline.com/promo/modern-engine yet I've never been able to figure out how they back up their claims about that. Could be something to do with using lower ash content I guess, which some of the european spec oils like Mobil1 ESP 5w-30 also do. Mobil1 ESP would make a decent choice for someone wanting a low-or-mid saps oil that is a little thicker and performs at very high performance specs. Corvettes are now told to use Mobil1 ESP 0w40, a close cousin to ESP 5w30, for example, as a way of showing they are an upper-tier oil.
 
Originally Posted by tenderloin
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by tenderloin
Don't the new SN+ oils have less calcium that was contributing to valve deposits in DI engines...and have additional levels of magnesium? If that is the case then an oil can help change/control that....


Less calcium, yes, but not for the reason you mentioned.


HOW CAN LSPI PROBLEMS BE SOLVED?
Unfortunately there is not one root cause of LSPI, but research indicates that the lubricants used can play a role in combatting this issue. Calcium containing additives are strongly associated with LSPI, therefore a fundamental change in additive technology can mitigate LSPI. API SN Plus is only the first step in this battle with LSPI, with more formulary changes to be addressed with the upcoming ILSAC GF-6 category.
Total



Your original post stated reducing calcium was to combat valve deposits and increasing oil changes would help combat valve deposits. Both of those are incorrect.
 
I had excellent 6K mile UOAs with PP5w30 with my CX7 turbo. PP had the addition of the HONDA approval test HTO-06 for Turbo engines and it still does today. I definitely would use a N+ D1G2 rated oil. Ed
 
Last edited:
Jimmy_Russells Thanks for the clarification..Although I was not the one that mentioned more frequent oi changes....Chevron stated that deposits were also a cause for LSPI..I assumed it seems wrongly that calcium deposits were on the valves.

Several theories exist to explain the mechanism of LSPI. One theory is centered on an oil droplet entering the combustion chamber from a crevice between the piston and cylinder wall. In this mechanism, the oil droplet mixes with fuel and auto-ignites. A second theory focuses on deposits as the ignition source for LSPI. Evidence has been shown for both mechanisms, and they are not necessarily mutually exclusive.

ORONITE
 
When oil hits the backs of the intake valves, I would presume its formulation either contributes more, or less, depending, to build up on them, no?
 
My only engine with DI was a 2012 Ford 3.5 Ecoboost
I logged 120K only using QS 5W-30 synthetic oil
Scoped the intake once around 90K and the intake valves
were coated some what but not terrible
I've always lived by the Ferrari tune up rule
Rev em to redline as often as you can
Valves slamming at 6K rpm's can knock out a lot of crap
 
Back
Top