LM Ceratec to reduce engine wear

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I was curious, as a prior poster mentioned Lubegen Bio, in what instances do you decide whether to use this and given its formula, is it preferable to use it with a certain oil. Im thinking of trying this stuff out with my Castrol 0w40.
 
Originally Posted by sibhus
I was curious, as a prior poster mentioned Lubegen Bio, in what instances do you decide whether to use this and given its formula, is it preferable to use it with a certain oil. Im thinking of trying this stuff out with my Castrol 0w40.

Unfortunately you are not going to get answers based on a few facts, and a lot of opinions. The product is polar in nature, contains esters, and a good shot of moly. Moly that willl stay in suspension. Search the site for Lubegard Biotech Engine Protectant, there is quite a bit of info on it.
 
Originally Posted by sibhus
I was curious, as a prior poster mentioned Lubegen Bio, in what instances do you decide whether to use this and given its formula, is it preferable to use it with a certain oil. Im thinking of trying this stuff out with my Castrol 0w40.


The Castrol 0w40 is a pretty good oil as it is right from the bottle, personally I wouldn't bother. Fact is a lot of these products were developed and did seem to make a difference at that time many years ago but there is no comparison between oils of yesteryear and today. In old engines I do use ZDDP, there is no real additive in use today that replaces it despite what they claim, cam wear in these old lumps proves it, the Castrol 0w40 has enough ZDDP on its own, extra is not needed except for all out engines with big cams, flat tappets and obligatory high rate valve springs.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
Anything with solids is going to fall out of suspension if it sits long enough, how long exactly that is before it begins I don't know. What surprised me is the Ceratec, the compressor runs daily and for a long enough time to get the oil up to temp.
I ran MoS2 in the one car because it has a habit of wearing engine bearings under high boost, the MoS2 did not help only a thicker oil (10w60) had significant benefit.



I too found ceratec clumped in low flow areas.

A physics based calculation for settling can be found here:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...75/all/small-particle-mos2-settling-time
 
2016. russian auto magazine published some tests done
translated version:
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.zr.ru%2Fcontent%2Farticles%2F840783-lechim-motory-prisadkami-k-motornym-maslam%2F

so you can read in details.

that is same picture with some , simplistic translations.
[Linked Image]



But thing that exactly kill you Porsche engine are bad oil:
here what you will get under high temperature:

You definitely don't want it in you engine:
[Linked Image]


and dont want that:
[Linked Image]



YOU want that: the clean one, ( that an example)
[Linked Image]


all in one list: ( just a note , many brands are europe market, chemistry might be differ due to source of manufacturing, despite the same bottle, so test yourself, flask , and the heater, 30min under 400 Celsius.
https://bmwservice.livejournal.com/27699.html
 
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