Start/Stall Issue 2014 Elantra

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I have an issue with my Elantra, 2014, 91k miles.

Yesterday, I had a strange problem with my 2014 Elantra. I get off work, jump in, start car (Temp 47*F). Cranks right up, as usual. I hear a faint tapping sound, so I tap the gas pedal and momentarily bring the RPM to 2500. Engine dies as though I shut it off.

Restart one: Normal crank sound but no start
Restart two: Normal Crank, starts to hit, but never catches.
Restart three: Starts to hit more, starter bangs around like engine misfiring.
Restart four: Engine starts. I bring revs to 2500, engine immediately dies.
Restart five: Normal Crank, but no spark, sounds like no compression.
Restart six: Normal Crank, but no spark, sounds like no compression.
Restart seven: Normal Crank, starts to hit, but never catches.
Restart eight: Starts to hit more, starter bangs around like engine is misfiring
Restart nine: Engine starts. Idles low (500rpm) but continues to run.

At this time, I have already called for a tow, called the stealer to let them know I was on my way, So having time, I drive the car around the parking lot. Runs good. I get brave and drive down the road. All is good. I get braver and drive to the Stealer which is about 12 miles away. Car runs perfect. I get to the place, tell the Service writer my issue, and he looks stumped, but says they will look at it. An hour later it comes back, ready to go, with a "can not duplicate" repair. Car has 91K on it, has Never had an issue whatsoever. Never did anything like this before. Started perfectly every time (about 7-8 starts) at the stealer. Said noting they can do, if it does it again, they have it on history now, and will go from there. So wife shows up, we take her car, go get something to eat, come back about 90 minuted later. Car is cold again, just like at work earlier. I get in, start it, fires right up. I bring rpm's to 2500 again, remains running. Drive 37 miles home. No issues. Even coasted down a hill in Neutral, revved engine and let off gas to see if it would stall. It stayed running.
This morning, started it, 52*F, fired right up, let it idle 15 seconds. Blipped throttle to 2500, started to stall. I rapidly tapped the gas, it gurgled and chugged, then smoothed out. It idled at 1000. Revved again and no issue. Drove car. Went up hill and left it in 6th, to the floor. No starvation or other issue. Got to next hill, let it downshift on its own while to the floor. Engine climbed normally to 5k before I let off. Could not duplicate problem since. Car is immaculately maintained.

Going to try to reproduce problem again on my lunch break, and try to get a video. Any help or ideas welcome.

What in the world happened here? Component failing somewhere? Sensor? Glitch in the Matrix? I am at a loss. The only thing that even remotely crosses my mind is fuel pump/pressure issue.But never an issue before, and since. Has anyone had any problem like this or maybe point me in a direction?
 
I feel your pain. Intermittent problems are the worst.

Stuff that I'd try:

- Clean up MAF & TB
- Check air filter
- Run a bottle of fuel cleaner
- Look for vac leaks (fuel trims can easily show this).
- Check plugs & coils.

Do you have a cheap Bluetooth OBDII adapter to check for preliminary data, like FT's, O2 sensor, codes, and etc?
 
No CE light constantly on?

Check Throttle body for leaks. Crank angle sensor was common issue. Random stalling and no starts were common.
 
I don't think it has leaky injectors, I get stellar mileage, and no evidence of richness on the tailpipe. Air filter was replaced with OEM about two months ago, bottle of regane around same time. I looked last night for obvious vacuum hoses loose or cracked, and I do have an obd2 scan tool that does show live info, however, the stealer used the hyundai GDS scanner on it and found nothing, either.
 
When a fuel pump is starting to fail they will do this for a while. The brushes stick and unstick since they have worn to become a little short for the holder. Or can be a bad commutator. When it will not start, you can check pressure at the valve on the fuel rail for the injectors. Or you can add supplemental fuel, carb cleaner is better, starting fluid is very low octane.

Normally pumps last longer but not uncommon to have fail anytime after 75K. . The dealer can use a current probe and a oscilloscope to check the current ripple on the motor, this usually indicates the problem.

If it does it again, you can also wiggle the key around incase the ignition switch is getting strange.

Rod
 
Sorry to pose a question with an answer everyone else already knows, but why are you nipping the throttle? Will the engine die if you don't?
 
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In your video of the first restart after the stall, then engine sounds like it has zero or low compression. The engine is cranking as shown on the tach, but the noise it makes is indicative of low compression.

My guess will be skipped timing, seems like you have a timing chain?
 
I would check to see if there is an oil pressure issue. If there is not enough oil pressure to operate cam timing it won't run. It does sound like there is no load on the starter (as in lack of compression). If it jumped time it would never run correctly until it was fixed it won't fix that by itself.
 
The oil light goes off pretty quick even with cranking so i think there is pressure. To me it sounds like its running out of fuel. Perhaps something in the fuel filter, or the fuel pump is going out. Check for spark and fuel.
 
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I had similar symptom on my 2013 once. Attributed it to previous day short run. Had started car when temps were in 20's just to move it in driveway. Ran motor for maybe 20 seconds. Next morning wouldnt start. Cranked and cranked on and off for 3 or 4 attempts. Sounded flooded. Floored accelerator and finally got it to start. Ran rough for half minute. My thinking is moisture in the combustion chamber from previous night short start prevented the spark plugs from firing. Never did a short start again, and never again experienced it.

Had same thing happened to a 2002 Ford F250 with the 5.4. Moved from driveway to garage. Ran 20-30 seconds. Had trouble starting next day. Same senario same symptoms.
 
Originally Posted by chrome
In your video of the first restart after the stall, then engine sounds like it has zero or low compression. The engine is cranking as shown on the tach, but the noise it makes is indicative of low compression.

My guess will be skipped timing, seems like you have a timing chain?


I agree that the second try after it stalled, it sounds like it has no compression. It cannot be skipped timing though because OP reported that once it eventually started, it ran fine.

Does this engine have VVT? Perhaps it is intermittently overlaps valve timing, but I would imagine something like this would throw a code.
 
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I agree it sounds like a cam timing issue as I mentioned before. While it may have enough oil pressure to turn the "idiot light" off it may not have been sufficient to operate the VVT. It could also have restricted passages that feed the actuators on the cams, VVT solenoid issues or defective solenoids or actuators unrelated to oil pressure.

OP there should be some kind of code in history with it stalling like that. Have it scanned again
 
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555 - I posted the reason in the first post, hence how th3 problem came to be. The video was made to recreate the problem, which it did.

Mattd- that's what I thought at first, too, that something let go. However it has started, and today I just drove from Little Rock to KC, Mo, with no Issues at all. 335 miles.

Spasm3 - this was my thinking as well, but once it runs longer than a minute, I can reproduce it, and have no starvation issues when utilizing maximum power on hills and such.

armkb - car is driven daily 32 miles to work and 32 back.

KrisZ - and that is what perplexes me, no 3ngine codes at all. Not even a "come on and go out" light. Stealership found no hidden codes, either.

Thank you all for the replies while I figure this gremlin out.
 
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