How has BITOG influenced your oil selection?

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I joined back in 2002. At that time, my ex-father-in-law used to work for Mobil in the early 90's and he was the one that first told me about synthetic oil and how Mobil tested it. My first job out of college was in 2000, and I had a long commute. After him telling me about it, I started using synthetic oil.

Over the next 16 years I followed the basic trends and discussions on BITOG. I'm still partial to Mobil 1 simply, because I've watched how they operate, have talked to their engineers and see how significant of a player they are in the industry. I've always valued their website, staying a head of the curve on formulation trends, marketing and clean PDS. On the flip side, despite being somewhat brand loyal, I'm actually LESS brand loyal now than ever before, knowing how there are only a handful of suppliers and things change so rapidly it often does not matter what brand you use. BITOG helped me learn how the industry works in general and the importance of what to look for when choosing an oil. I get bored with ultra-technical details, so I tend to follow what interests me most which are the trends and articles about where the industry is headed. BITOG has influenced my oil selection process by realizing that oils are more alike than different when comparing similar tiered oils and generally speaking, you can count on the major formulators to put out a thoroughly tested product that will meet the needs of most cars. There are many top tier oils available and you can't go wrong with any of them.
 
Originally Posted by littlehulkster
Honestly, I've learned that it doesn't matter as much as some people think, and even the cheap store brand/Walmart oils are perfectly adequate for most people and most cars. Unless you're running an exotic, racing or doing a lot of heavy towing, just about any synthetic oil that meets specs (which is almost all of them) will work fine.


Coupled with that, myths and feelings are more important than specs...thus the board disappears.
 
Being on BITOG for 8+ years I have to say it made me really dig down and look at the data presented - not people's "feelings" about stuff, but actual engineering data, which does influence what oil and oil filters I use.
 
Im at that level where im still get confuse here and there, definitely not where i can give someone an advice yet. But this site taught me very well. Now i do understand better about oil certification, euro, dexos etc etc.

Its definitely fun.
 
BITOG hasn't influenced my choice of oil but I do take better care or my vehicles since I found the site. I used to buy into things like lifetime fluids etc. A lot of good advice here has encouraged me to tackle jobs I wouldn't have before.
 
This site taught me to trust Pennzoil so I did then results (of not just me but others) showed that was a mistake. Learned how to read UOA now I know weakness of certain oils. Never was regular with oil changes so that hasn't changed. Never thought about certification but now I do. Love reading reviews on different things so this site is perfect.
 
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That FRAM isn't a piece of trash like I thought they were when I started.
That Purolator is in the doghouse now.
That there are at least 1-3 active arguments regarding AMSOIL vs (insert competing brand name here) going on at any given moment.
That all oils are pretty much created equal, just avoid Dollar General and other dollar store brands due to the likelihood of outdated certs.
That Pennzoil is perfectly fine to use, like FRAM, I was a Pennzoil hater when I joined.
That '53 Stude is the primary oil filter mad scientist and cuts them open to show the world what they look like.
That I'm also a filter fanatic and find myself obsessing more over them than the oil itself.
And lastly, majority of mechanics don't know squat about oil or filters and should be taken with a grain of salt when they give advice on them.

It's been fun, I quite enjoy my time here!
 
Before bitog:
Before I bought a car that recommended 0Wx20, I wouldn't go anywhere near synthetic. It was just not on my radar. All my other cars allowed 5Wx30 & 10Wx30 and I could buy dino. I thought synthetic was a trick to get more money out of the consumers ... lol maybe it is
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anyways didn't know anything about oil and still don't. I now may know enough to be dangerous ...

Due to my previous success with dino (none of my cars went to junkyard even after 400K miles)
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I was always a dino fan. Why switch if it works!

After bitog:
I started researching 0Wx20 and found bitog. I was thinking no way I put 0Wx20 in my truck. It must be very thin ... I still don't . After bitog, going even thicker (hths wise). Maybe I look for posts to justify my decisions but that's the way it is. I try to stay objective but thinies haven't convinced me yet. lol I likes me some high hths and the idea of xW-hths

also started warming up to synthetics mainly to increase oci since i was taking care of 4 cars. In one of the cars, I now use 5Wx30 PP in winter and M1 EP 10Wx30 in summer. For some reason I hardly ever used M1 before bitog even though I knew it's a good oil. I always used Castrol, Pennzoil, Chevron and other dinos here and there but didn't use M1. So website marketing works.

Also Not sure why all of a sudden I got interested in oil and like to learn more beyond my needs. Doesn't make sense ... bitog is addictive and I've learned a lot about oil and other stuff. tons of good info (graphs, charts, documents, etc.) thanks to many knowledgeable people, experts and PhDs ... you can't swing a dead cat without hitting an expert or PhD and they are all willing to share their knowledge over and over and over ...

MANY thanks to those who contribute!
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Learned air filters are more important than oil filters.

Probably the biggest thing is extending my OCI from 3 to 6 months and will probably extend to a year in my Lucerne.
 
Being a member here for a bit has only reinforced my opinion that any certified oil in the correct wt will work in 99% of cars.
The cheapest oil will protect the same as more expensive gourmet brands.
Price doesn't equal better quality.
Being here has showed me that it is an obsession to worry about oil.
 
Originally Posted by Shannow

* In the '90s I was enamoured with greater spread (W to grading), believing that a flatter viscosity curve is better - it is, but only if it's inherent VI (note...in Oz 20W is plenty OK for cold end).
* I'm probably never going to have a 15W anything in the shed ever again.

What is inherent VI?

Why wouldn't you care to buy anymore 15W anything? ... especially when saying that 20W-x oil isn't too thick for Oz?
 
BITOG has caused me to only purchase oil that is on sale. I now mostly run synthetic oils for the same price (or less!) than I was paying for conventional.
 
Additives aren't what they claim to be
you can go longer than 3k without the engine blowing up
Synthetics aren't some exotic elixir only for use in racing engines
UOA's are fun
Doing your own oil changes is easy and satisfying
You don't have to stick to the oil-cap grade
 
Quote
Being a member here for a bit has only reinforced my opinion that any certified oil in the correct wt will work in 99% of cars.

Being here has showed me that it is an obsession to worry about oil.


Quote
Additives aren't what they claim to be
you can go longer than 3k without the engine blowing up
Synthetics aren't some exotic elixir only for use in racing engines
UOA's are fun
Doing your own oil changes is easy and satisfying
You don't have to stick to the oil-cap grade


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This isn't all because of BITOG, since the internet is a vast place, but BITOG is certainly more dedicated to oil-related topics.

Started caring about what oil should be in my lawn mowers. While at the same time having some seemingly knowledgeable people on here say it barely matters what oil you put in a small engine. But, gotta put something in there, so may as well put something recommended in.

More confirmation that:
20-weight oil is usually only for government mpg purposes and I should probably use something heavier.
Older Subarus like heavier oil.
Every major brand is usually more similar than different.
If an older vehicle's manual says to use 10w30, using 5w30 not only won't cause it to blow up but is probably actually better.

Actual oil tests that show conventional should be just fine in typical engines unless going for extended OCI.
Though such information is almost irrelevant to me in practical use since I wait for sales on synthetic and also avoid using conventional in general and outright refuse to put conventional in any turbocharged car due to a very bad experience with conventional Mobil years ago.
 
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