How has BITOG influenced your oil selection?

[OilUzer]

Lots of great info on this site!

After being here for a while, are you for example going lighter, heavier, wider, euro, syn, dino, changed brands, more attention to details (certs, recommendatios, specs), flip-flopping, more worried, more confused, or same as before?

 

[Linctex]

I hated Pennzoil all through the late 70's and the entire 80's and 90's because it was "waxy" and would sludge your engine up.

I DID know about SOPUS and the whole Quaker State/Pennz merger (how many years ago was that?) BUT - - it wasn't enough for me to buy any QS or Pennz products until I eventually started lurking here 10-12 or so years ago.

I haven't bought any Valvoline oil in a very long time.....
Other than Castrol GTX, it used to be the only stuff I would dare touch.

I have learned a TON about oil filters since I started reading here.

 

[billt460]

It hasn't. Because there is way too much contradiction in every, "What oil should I use?", thread. They'll come up with every make and viscosity on the market in a 4 page thread. And most of it isn't convincing enough. It's much the same with manufacturer recommended specs and viscosities. It always turns into a, "thicker is better" argument. I'm not saying there isn't good information on this site, because there is. But I have not seen or read anything that would make me deviate from manufacturer spec oils and viscosities in any of my vehicles.

 

[Shannow]

Things I've changed in the last 30 years (and BITOG has been a big part of that).
* brand loyalty...not there really...they change their formulations, so changing brands doesn't mean much
* With a little bit of research, you can often find out what house brands are rebottled majors...buy that, PLUE be more confident of the certs.
* In the '90s I was enamoured with greater spread (W to grading), believing that a flatter viscosity curve is better - it is, but only if it's inherent VI (note...in Oz 20W is plenty OK for cold end).
* certs, versus meets or exceeds...it's not THAT expensive...claiming so is disingenuous, when your motives are appendix E.
* Yes...sigh...GrIII and synthetic was NOT the result of Castrol outlawyering Mobil in a court case. While the purist in me believe that building an oil from precursors IS synthetic (thus defining GTL as synthetic in my world), XHVI/slack wax should have crossed that line also.
* Dexos 2 FTW
* Sellout specials should always be looked at, but with a critical eye. The Helix Ultra 5W30 AG (Dexos 2) for $40/5L was a great buy...so was the Delvac 10W30 I got the other day 7L/$40 (Oh, it's not Dexos 2, but I can live with that for an OCI)
* ALWAYS have some cheap oil in the shed for the relative who can't be arsed even checking their oil...if they can't be bothered, having inventory that cost nearly nothing is worthwhile...do the same with beer...
* I'm probably never going to have a 15W anything in the shed ever again.
* 20W and 25W are "additive grades".
* fanboism trumps science every time
* and current signature.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted by billt460
It hasn't. Because there is way too much contradiction in every, "What oil should I use?", thread. They'll come up with every make and viscosity on the market in a 4 page thread. And most of it isn't convincing enough. It's much the same with manufacturer recommended specs and viscosities. It always turns into a, "thicker is better" argument. I'm not saying there isn't good information on this site, because there is. But I have not seen or read anything that would make me deviate from manufacturer spec oils and viscosities in any of my vehicles.


Says the bloke running 0W20 in his 0W16 specced Toyota...LOL

 

[billt460]

Originally Posted by Shannow
Says the bloke running 0W20 in his 0W16 specced Toyota...LOL

How many times do I have to post this before you read it? Or perhaps you are, but it keeps failing to sink in. (Not surprising there in the least).

"If SAE 0W-16 is not available, however, you're safe using higher level fluids such as SAE 0W-20 oil inside."

http://www.toyotapaloalto.com/blog/2018-toyota-camry-recommended-oil-type-by-engine/

 

[KevinP64]

no

 

[Snagglefoot]

Originally Posted by Shannow
Originally Posted by billt460
It hasn't. Because there is way too much contradiction in every, "What oil should I use?", thread. They'll come up with every make and viscosity on the market in a 4 page thread. And most of it isn't convincing enough. It's much the same with manufacturer recommended specs and viscosities. It always turns into a, "thicker is better" argument. I'm not saying there isn't good information on this site, because there is. But I have not seen or read anything that would make me deviate from manufacturer spec oils and viscosities in any of my vehicles.


Says the bloke running 0W20 in his 0W16 specced Toyota...LOL


Says the thickie with 40,000 posts. LOL.

 

[wemay]

-Found out Walmart has best everyday prices
-Always find the best deals by reading rebates section
-Learned how to read VOA/UOA
-Brand loyalty has taken a hit
-Now disregard marketing fluff
-Learned about PQIA
-Learned about additives and engine tests
-Learned about CAFE
-Now OCD about motor oil. (In rehab though)

I'm sure I left out something

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted by Snagglefoot

Says the thickie with 40,000 posts. LOL.


Was actually the first around here running 5W30s...A3/B4, and C3s, but 5W30s.

BTW, your post count is 8.944 per day.
Mine is only 7.148...you are 25% up on me, and I try to make at least 3-5 meaningful post per day

so what was your point again ????

 

[dblshock]

find sale/rebate motor oil super cheap. 5/30,0/40,5/40,10/40,15/40 are favs.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted by billt460
Originally Posted by Shannow
Says the bloke running 0W20 in his 0W16 specced Toyota...LOL

How many times do I have to post this before you read it? Or perhaps you are, but it keeps failing to sink in. (Not surprising there in the least).

"If SAE 0W-16 is not available, however, you're safe using higher level fluids such as SAE 0W-20 oil inside."

http://www.toyotapaloalto.com/blog/2018-toyota-camry-recommended-oil-type-by-engine/


Because when you posted the contents of YOUR MANUAL...it said as long as you reverted back at the next oil change...

 

[billt460]

And AGAIN I told you the vehicle has had 1 oil change, (0W-20), Which is within spec of both the manual, as well as what the dealership I posted said.

Originally Posted by Shannow
I try to make at least 3-5 meaningful post per day

7.148 - 4 = 3.148. So.... According to your figures, over 3 of your posts every day are not meaningful. I suppose I can agree with that, because your last 3 certainly fit into that category.

 

[javacontour]

I'm willing to try proven store brand oils that meet the same specifications as the name brands. Especially with the advent of SN or SN+ and Dexos oils, I have little concern over them being up to the task.

I'm willing to go the manufacturers recommended OCI. Cars and the lubricants they use are better than they were when I started doing oil changes in the 1970s.

 

[JC1]

Yes this site has provided tons of great Information for me.

I've gone to using Oil filters for 2 OCI.
Made the switch to Fram Ultras.
I don't get worried running longer OCI.
I've learned that you can mix different weighs of oil with no I'll effects.

And more importantly, I've realized that we have a ton of guys that love oil changes more than they may love sports or other than auto related hobbies!!!

God bless the oil fanatics!!!

 

[Sayjac]

Mostly from the standpoint of finding (on promo board) synthetic oil on closeout eg., AAP Idemitsu 0w20 qt , O'R Hav ProDS 5w20 ~$8 jug. Or rebated synthetic like PP jugs<$13 AR. Result, gone from using conventional to almost exclusively using synthetic.

 

[tony1679]

Virtually all of my oil and filter knowledge has come from here. TL;DR: It has taught me to be flexible regarding oil weight/grade, longer OCIs are okay, and usually synthetics FTW.

Before BITOG, all I knew was what commercials & marketing told me, just like a Budweiser drinker

. Sadly I don't remember what brought me here. I could go on for days, but BITOG has taught me:

*How an oil filter really works and which ones are quality
*What OCOD stands for
*The W stands for Winter
*The first number before the W (at specified temp) is actually 'thicker' than the second
*98% of professional mechanics know exactly 0% about oil
*These same mechanics are usually the morons preaching about Lucas OS and 3K OCI intervals (no offense to mechanics, I just have a few in my extended family that do exactly this...)
*PEA is your friend
*That's not a pokeball on the back of the bottle
*A tribologist doesn't analyze tribes
*How to read/understand VOAs/UOAs
*How to care for a transmission
*Conventional oils are actually pretty good
*The $1/quart rule is king. If it's found, it is stashed. No exceptions.
*To stop throwing away money with 3K OCIs - sadly, I used to do this with synthetics!

The [high mileage - all 180k+] family fleet I service gets VML every ~5k
The SS (due to the tune and driving habits) gets VSP every 4K
The Elantra gets ($2/quart) M1AP every 7,500 - staying conservative and literally going by the book

 

[CharBaby]

I now trust store brand oils(AAP, AZ, PBs, ST etc.) and I also go beyond the 3 mo/3K mi OCI.
In addition, I trust now that I can switch between dino & syn any time I choose and mixing brands/grades and blends, doesn't hurt a thing.

Many of these^^^ things I did prior to BITOG anyway from my own experience but now I trust it more due to having volumes of information/data available.

 

[Bud]

No it has not. I read BITOG because I enjoy it.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

On a stock engine: OE certs make your purchasing decisions much easier.