Hyundia / Kia GDI 1.6 oil thoughts

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I know this has probably been posted 10,000+ times in the past month but I couldn't find anything exact to my situation so I wanted to ask.

I've been using 5w30 Mobil 1 extended performance in pretty much everything I own for years. My last two engines were 2012 GM 1.4 turbos and I ran them for 10,000 miles and even at 142,000 miles my last engine looked like brand new when I pulled the cam cover. I still have a Cruze that has 80K on it, but I traded my Sonic in.


I just bought a new 2019 Hyundai GDI 1.6 and noticed it calls for 5w20 on the cap, but the manual claims I can use all kinds of stuff. I think it calls for changes every 7500.

99.99% of my driving is 40 mile trips on interstates to and from work at 60-75mph. Very few short trips so I don't think moisture has ever been an issue for me.

Should I continue using Mobil 1 extended performance 5w30 in this engine which is the same as my other car (GM 1.4T) and my lawn mower, snow blower, generators etc. Or buy a specific oil for it? With my driving habits do I need to do it every 7500 or can I squeeze 10K out of it like my previous engines?

I've never owned a GDI engine before but have heard rumor that they can be finicky. This being the case, I will go out of my way if it matters.
 
You could stick with 5w30, to keep your stock in common. You'd only lose about 1% fuel economy from the viscosity difference between a 5w20 & 5w30, not too bad for most people.

Good choice of M1 EP. Its around half PAO and seems to be solid. Their Annual Protection AP is probably better still.

With that highway driving, even with a GDI engine, 10k miles would be easy for M1 EP or AP. I would put on an oil filter that performs at least as good as 99% 20 microns 4548-12 for those long drain periods, and that choice is usually Fram Ultra at walmart or amazon.
 
oil is oil with the proper specs. In my 2.7 i have used Motorcraft, Semi syn and syn Magnetech, M1 high mile and Valvoline High mile and the seat of the pants dyno can't tell any difference.
 
For a GDI Turbo, look for the SN plus rating. Typically the oil will have something on the front that it is suitable for " modern Turbo charged engines" and will say SN Plus on the back. It comes in different grades including the 5w20 your engine specs. Many on this forum would suggest going to a 5w30. Here is one example. You can see on the label the part about the turbo engine.

Just noticed you didn't say turbo for your new engine, but an SN Plus works fine there too. Some folks like seeing the Dexos emblem. (D1G2). GDI are prone to gasoline contamination, so I would prefer to change it earlier rather than trying to save a few bucks pushing it.
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5AAEED08-E4D7-4C0E-8388-EDCA4025BC1C.jpeg
 
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Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
You could stick with 5w30, to keep your stock in common. You'd only lose about 1% fuel economy from the viscosity difference between a 5w20 & 5w30, not too bad for most people.

Good choice of M1 EP. Its around half PAO and seems to be solid. Their Annual Protection AP is probably better still.

With that highway driving, even with a GDI engine, 10k miles would be easy for M1 EP or AP. I would put on an oil filter that performs at least as good as 99% 20 microns 4548-12 for those long drain periods, and that choice is usually Fram Ultra at walmart or amazon.



The last time I researched this, a very long time ago Fram was considered the worst filter you could buy.

Has this changed? I think we're talking 10+ years ago.
shocked2.gif
 
I have the 1.6L GDI in our 2015 KIA Rio. Small sump at 3.8 quarts. And it puts out a decent amount of power at that displacement.
I change the oil at 3750 miles as per KIA Canada requirements.
If I had your KIA, I would use a good conventional such as PYB or QSGB. 5W-30 and change it at 5,000 mile interval, with an OEM oil filter.
GDI seems to beat up oil quicker than port injected engines.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisJ


The last time I researched this, a very long time ago Fram was considered the worst filter you could buy.

Has this changed? I think we're talking 10+ years ago.
shocked2.gif


I'm with you, Fram had a terrible reputation. Not sure what happened, I suspect a change in corporate ownership, now the Fram Ultra filters are supposed to be very good.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisJ
I know this has probably been posted 10,000+ times in the past month but I couldn't find anything exact to my situation so I wanted to ask.

I've been using 5w30 Mobil 1 extended performance in pretty much everything I own for years. My last two engines were 2012 GM 1.4 turbos and I ran them for 10,000 miles and even at 142,000 miles my last engine looked like brand new when I pulled the cam cover. I still have a Cruze that has 80K on it, but I traded my Sonic in.


I just bought a new 2019 Hyundai GDI 1.6 and noticed it calls for 5w20 on the cap, but the manual claims I can use all kinds of stuff. I think it calls for changes every 7500.

99.99% of my driving is 40 mile trips on interstates to and from work at 60-75mph. Very few short trips so I don't think moisture has ever been an issue for me.

Should I continue using Mobil 1 extended performance 5w30 in this engine which is the same as my other car (GM 1.4T) and my lawn mower, snow blower, generators etc. Or buy a specific oil for it? With my driving habits do I need to do it every 7500 or can I squeeze 10K out of it like my previous engines?

I've never owned a GDI engine before but have heard rumor that they can be finicky. This being the case, I will go out of my way if it matters.


I wouldn't go over 7.5k OCIs with your GDI. Run 5W30 synthetic and regular Mobil-1 is plenty good. Other good choices are Castrol Magnatec or black Edge, Pennzoil Platinum and QS Ultimate Durability.

PAO, which is high in Mobil-1 EP, is not so favorable with your GDI, according to TGDI/GDI/LSPI researchers. Tests have shown even Group-2 conventional may be a better option. So choosing a Group III, like those I mentioned above, may be our ticket. That's what I'll run in my Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 GDI. I already have two jugs of Pennzoil Platinum ready for service for the next 12 months or-so. That Platinum currently has a $10 rebate per five quart jug. Limit 2. So I couldn;t pass up that nice offer.

I am going with Group III synthetic, because it supposedly soaks up fuel dilution better than conventional. Otherwise I would just buy Pennzoil Yellow Bottle and run that for 5K OCIs, which will be my mileage for OCIs with that Hyundai. Still undecided on what filter. It'll likely be either OEM, Wix, or Fram EG. A filter with more flow is preferred by Hyundai and more flow is displayed with their OEM filter, which is around $5 at a dealer.
 
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Originally Posted by Danno
I have the 1.6L GDI in our 2015 KIA Rio. Small sump at 3.8 quarts. And it puts out a decent amount of power at that displacement.
I change the oil at 3750 miles as per KIA Canada requirements.
If I had your KIA, I would use a good conventional such as PYB or QSGB. 5W-30 and change it at 5,000 mile interval, with an OEM oil filter.
GDI seems to beat up oil quicker than port injected engines.



Hi Danno,

Thank you for taking the time to respond.

If the engine seems to beat up oil faster, why recommend a conventional oil?
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by ChrisJ
I know this has probably been posted 10,000+ times in the past month but I couldn't find anything exact to my situation so I wanted to ask.

I've been using 5w30 Mobil 1 extended performance in pretty much everything I own for years. My last two engines were 2012 GM 1.4 turbos and I ran them for 10,000 miles and even at 142,000 miles my last engine looked like brand new when I pulled the cam cover. I still have a Cruze that has 80K on it, but I traded my Sonic in.


I just bought a new 2019 Hyundai GDI 1.6 and noticed it calls for 5w20 on the cap, but the manual claims I can use all kinds of stuff. I think it calls for changes every 7500.

99.99% of my driving is 40 mile trips on interstates to and from work at 60-75mph. Very few short trips so I don't think moisture has ever been an issue for me.

Should I continue using Mobil 1 extended performance 5w30 in this engine which is the same as my other car (GM 1.4T) and my lawn mower, snow blower, generators etc. Or buy a specific oil for it? With my driving habits do I need to do it every 7500 or can I squeeze 10K out of it like my previous engines?

I've never owned a GDI engine before but have heard rumor that they can be finicky. This being the case, I will go out of my way if it matters.


I wouldn't go over 7.5k OCIs with your GDI. Run 5W30 synthetic and regular Mobil-1 is plenty good. Other good choices are Castrol Magnatec or black Edge, Pennzoil Platinum and QS Ultimate Durability.

PAO, which is high in Mobil-1 EP, is not so favorable with your GDI, according to TGDI/GDI/LSPI researchers. Tests have shown even Group-2 conventional may be a better option. So choosing a Group III, like those I mentioned above, may be our ticket. That's what I'll run in my Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 GDI. I already have two jugs of Pennzoil Platinum ready for service for the next 12 months or-so. That Platinum currently has a $10 rebate per five quart jug. Limit 2. So I couldn;t pass up that nice offer.

I am going with Group III synthetic, because it supposedly soaks up fuel dilution better than conventional. Otherwise I would just buy Pennzoil Yellow Bottle and run that for 5K OCIs, which will be my mileage for OCIs with that Hyundai. Still undecided on what filter. It'll likely be either OEM, Wix, or Fram EG. A filter with more flow is preferred by Hyundai and more flow is displayed with their OEM filter, which is around $5 at a dealer.



What is M1? Group 4?
 
Originally Posted by ChrisJ
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
You could stick with 5w30, to keep your stock in common. You'd only lose about 1% fuel economy from the viscosity difference between a 5w20 & 5w30, not too bad for most people.

Good choice of M1 EP. Its around half PAO and seems to be solid. Their Annual Protection AP is probably better still.

With that highway driving, even with a GDI engine, 10k miles would be easy for M1 EP or AP. I would put on an oil filter that performs at least as good as 99% 20 microns 4548-12 for those long drain periods, and that choice is usually Fram Ultra at walmart or amazon.



The last time I researched this, a very long time ago Fram was considered the worst filter you could buy.

Has this changed? I think we're talking 10+ years ago.
shocked2.gif


A lot of the frame hype comes from the fiber end caps they use on their cheaper filters.in reality there is nothing wrong with those end caps. The cheaper fram filters are often a little lacking in element but they still have plenty. If your plugging up a filter you have bigger problems than the filter brand.

Purolater filters have been tearing which let's unfiltered oil bypass the filter. The cheapest frams don't tear.
 
There are like six different M-1s. Which one are you referring to?
I am only familiar with 2..... EP and regular Mobil-1. If you need to know PAO quatitires, with the others, someone else may help here.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
There are like six different M-1s. Which one are you referring to?
I am only familiar with 2..... EP and regular Mobil-1. If you need to know PAO quatitires, with the others, someone else may help here.



I'm sorry.
I've only used EP, though the wife accidently thought EP high mileage a few times.

Not sure if there's much of a difference between the two.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisJ
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
You could stick with 5w30, to keep your stock in common. You'd only lose about 1% fuel economy from the viscosity difference between a 5w20 & 5w30, not too bad for most people.

Good choice of M1 EP. Its around half PAO and seems to be solid. Their Annual Protection AP is probably better still.

With that highway driving, even with a GDI engine, 10k miles would be easy for M1 EP or AP. I would put on an oil filter that performs at least as good as 99% 20 microns 4548-12 for those long drain periods, and that choice is usually Fram Ultra at walmart or amazon.



The last time I researched this, a very long time ago Fram was considered the worst filter you could buy.

Has this changed? I think we're talking 10+ years ago.
shocked2.gif



The Fram hate started with a disgruntled ex-employee who posted to the MoPar user site and it just sort of spread. The Orange Can O'Death was/is cheap looking and people were afraid of the paper end caps. After years of ignoring it, Fram sort of jumped in on many sites and defended their product, which was not as bad as rumors had it.

As far as oil, I'd recommend a good 5-30 SN+ changed regularly-- no more than 6000 miles. Although I'm not exclusively doing synthetic on my two liter non turbo, I would do it on a 1.6 turbo.
 
All Mobil 1 synthetics are blends of varying proportions depending on the product line.

Why not run what the manual says?
 
Originally Posted by ChrisJ
What is M1? Group 4?
Most Mobil1 oils (and there are many variations) use some PAO mixed with Group3 base oils. There is a type of base oil made from natural gas which is about as good as PAO, known as Group3+, and that is Shell's (Pennzoil) pureplus, in Platinum and others. Stick with M1 EP or AP, although Pennzoil Platinum is also very good. ....
About the LSPI issue, as long as the oil jug or bottle says either "SN Plus" or "dexos1 Gen2", then it has been tested to be resistant to LSPI, and about all oils on the shelves have these ratings currently, so its rarely an issue at all in 2019 (yesterday's news). About LSPI being especially bad with PAO, that's not true as long as the overall chemistry supports LSPI resistance, which any SN Plus or dexos1 Gen2 oil will have proven to.
 
I brought this over from another GDI thread going, but this is brand specific, so I re posted it here.

I have way too much fuel dilution in my 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T to go past 2,500 miles OCI. I have been sending each to Polaris Labs (I bought a 10 pack) I knew fuel dilution was going to be an issue when I bought it, but did not know it would be this bad. But then again I am in Minnesota and a short tripper so........... Tag I am it, I guess. Hopefully spring, summer, fall, and will be nicer to me. I am trying to leave it in sport mode to keep the rpm's higher and out Hyundai's overly rich injection algorithm to curtail LSPI. I have a 1,000 mile test coming up soon with my new style of driving to see if it helped. At this1,000 mile mark I would drain 1 qt and add another qt of higher viscosity oil to get me through to the 2,500 mile mark. I always want to keep my viscosity @100C above 8.5 since I am on boost quite a bit. My oil starts out at 11.8 @100C, but VOA says it is 11.2 to 5 of course.
 
Agree.... LSPI more of an issue, prior to 2016 (Korean-made anyways). Heard it affect some of the Ford Ecoboost and there may be other manufacturers. But nowadays things are quiet with newer vehicles and LSPI concern.
 
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