2016 Civic 2.0. Strange driving habits. Which oil?

[DEEPfrom1]

I drive in a lot and in an unusual manner. I work in sales, so I drive 30k+ miles per year.

I also idle often and a lot, as I work out of my car between sales calls (typing notes, emails, etc). Likely 2+ hours of idiling and 100-200 miles driven per day, lots of starts and stops, engine on, engine off.

I'm hoping to do a 7,500 OIC. Thinking of going with the Fram Ultra XG7317, even though it feels wrong to use Fram (last time i was active on here they weren't grate).

I am St. Louis and summers are hot. I'm not opposed to moving away from 0w-20.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Is it turbo direct inject? If so, change 5K. Moving up to 5w30 is a good idea too, for it helps alleviate fuel dilution.
Otherwise, the 7.5K run sounds like a plan..... except do ditch the 0W20 for 5w30.
I am a thickie, in regards to having vehicles that arrive new with 0W20.

 

[DEEPfrom1]

Nope, my bad. It is the Civic EX 2.0l NA.

I'll edit the original post.

 

[dblshock]

I run 0W40 in my Civic without penalty.

 

[ammolab]

The Fram Ultra is excellent and a good 5W-30 or 0W-30 Synthetic would be my choice.

 

[DEEPfrom1]

Originally Posted by dblshock
I run 0W40 in my Civic without penalty.





Any reason as to why for the 0w-40 and is yours the Turbo?

 

[DEEPfrom1]

Originally Posted by ammolab
The Fram Ultra is excellent and a good 5W-30 or 0W-30 Synthetic would be my choice.



Any reasons why you reccomend the 30 over the comparable 20 weights?

 

[dblshock]

turbo is a diluter, engine is a riot in the Civic but a diluter....having said that I'd still use it in the 2.0 especially if your beating on it now & then...it's a good oil.

 

[pitzel]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Is it turbo direct inject? If so, change 5K. Moving up to 5w30 is a good idea too, for it helps alleviate fuel dilution.
Otherwise, the 7.5K run sounds like a plan..... except do ditch the 0W20 for 5w30.
I am a thickie, in regards to having vehicles that arrive new with 0W20.


Terrible advice. Changing more oil more often in a GDI / TGDI engine is literally one of the worse things you can to do an engine. Honda has an oil life monitor/maintenance reminder, a great idea to use it for the proper interval.

 

[DuckRyder]

30K a year sounds like a M1AP usage model to me... run it and an XG to 20K ...Or 2X MM if you prefer.

 

[DEEPfrom1]

Originally Posted by DuckRyder
30K a year sounds like a M1AP usage model to me... run it and an XG to 20K ...Or 2X MM if you prefer.


You're suggesting M1AP 20k OIC, even with the long idles, numerous stop starts, lots of short trips and long highway stretches? If so, what weight?

 

[parshisa]

How about some amsoil? 2.0 is port injected and likely has no fuel dilution issues and easy on oil. Amsoil claims 15k for severe service (which you are). Changing oil twice a year will give you 30K. Pluse fram ultra and you're golden

 

[DEEPfrom1]

Originally Posted by parshisa
How about some amsoil? 2.0 is port injected and likely has no fuel dilution issues and easy on oil. Amsoil claims 15k for severe service (which you are). Changing oil twice a year will give you 30K. Pluse fram ultra and you're golden


Any particular amsoil? And where you reccomend purchasing it? I've always shied away due to availability.

 

[parshisa]

In your case given PFI engine stick with 0w20, signature series. You can order 13qts for around 130$ which will get you at 43$ per oil change. Plus 7$ fram on amazon. Total 50$ oil change for 6months / 15K worth of driving. Amsoil.com, you can order it pn their website delivered to your door.

 

[DuckRyder]

Originally Posted by DEEPfrom1
Originally Posted by DuckRyder
30K a year sounds like a M1AP usage model to me... run it and an XG to 20K ...Or 2X MM if you prefer.


You're suggesting M1AP 20k OIC, even with the long idles, numerous stop starts, lots of short trips and long highway stretches? If so, what weight?


I am and in whatever viscosity Honda recommends, which I presume is 0/20.

IME (see my UOA's on 3.7tiVTC) long idle makes negligible differences in oil results and as long as the oil is reaching temp with regularity the short trips don't matter.

Pull a sample at 10K if you want the first time you do it.

If you don't mind doing the change, then EP at 15K intervals is also an alternative.

 

[Bud]

I would run what the owners manual calls for and follow the MM. If you run the Fram Ultra use it for at least a couple of changes, or just run the Honda OEM filter or a Fram TG and change it each time.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted by pitzel
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Is it turbo direct inject? If so, change 5K. Moving up to 5w30 is a good idea too, for it helps alleviate fuel dilution.
Otherwise, the 7.5K run sounds like a plan..... except do ditch the 0W20 for 5w30.
I am a thickie, in regards to having vehicles that arrive new with 0W20.


Terrible advice. Changing more oil more often in a GDI / TGDI engine is literally one of the worse things you can to do an engine. Honda has an oil life monitor/maintenance reminder, a great idea to use it for the proper interval.




I guess you haven't a clue how dirty GDI/TDGIs get, when running long OCIs.
You need to read-up here at BITOG. Sounds like you need to start at Book 101.

Also, the Honda OLM does not measure how the oil is doing. The on-board computer continuously monitors engine operating conditions such as speed, engine temperature, ambient temperature, time, and vehicle use to determine when an oil change and regular maintenance is necessary.
It does not measure timing belt/chain lubrication, soot buildup around the pistons....etc..... nothing involving lubrication. Nothing involving LSPI either.

Get a UOA for better info on how an engine is doing. You certainly can't get that from the Honda OLM.

 

[ammolab]

Originally Posted by DEEPfrom1
Originally Posted by ammolab
The Fram Ultra is excellent and a good 5W-30 or 0W-30 Synthetic would be my choice.



Any reasons why you reccomend the 30 over the comparable 20 weights?

Originally Posted by DEEPfrom1
Originally Posted by ammolab
The Fram Ultra is excellent and a good 5W-30 or 0W-30 Synthetic would be my choice.



Any reasons why you reccomend the 30 over the comparable 20 weights?


So I could run it until the oil monitor said "change" without worry about shear or dilution.

 

[toneydoc]

Buy name brand oil such as Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol etc in 5w30 grade and you can easily run that for 7500 miles

They will handle that interval easily and you will have easy sleeping

 

[Fahrvergnügen]

On top of changing oil too much, another bad thing for any direct injected engine is idling. Don't let it idle unnecessarily period. That's where the dilution comes in being too much. Fuel in the oil is not always a bad thing, it's actially ok to have some fuel in the oil as it will still protect. Another important reason to use the weight the car manufacturer says to use. 0w20 is way more stout than a 5w30.