I don't understand the fixation on reaching a certain mileage, but I do know I'd get sick of a vehicle well before it hit 483,000km.
Getting 300k miles out of a vehicle
- Thread starter 2000Trooper
- Start date
Vehicles are an appliance and I try to make them last as long as possible. I don't get attached to, or emotional about, them. My washer and dryer are 16 years old and I marvel at the work they do every time I use them!
Originally Posted by 2000Trooper
. I recently switched to walmarts supertech 5w30 synthetic. I know it's a decent oil, I did some research before buying it and people seem to approve it for being a good oil. It's got all the latest certifications and all should be good to go, right?
Despite going in all "well-informed" and buying the stuff at walmart, the price was so cheap I got this feeling that maybe I should 2nd guess the oil. No disrespect to anyone, but realistically I am just reading all this information on the internet. Who knows what kind of misinformation may get compounded over time, and realistically how many of the so called experts on here have chemical engineering degrees with experience in this specific field? Okay, enough of discrediting you guys. Point is that I'm just trying to go about this with a few grains of salt. What I did is to compare VOAs of premium brands to the supertech. ...
Ok, so if I read this correctly, (just talking here) you looked at the VOA of a few oils, VOAs which test for less then a handful of decades old chemicals and think you are making an informed decision?
"so called experts" ? ?specific field" ?
All that information is right on the oil bottle!
Its called the AMERICAN PETROLEUM INSTITUTE.
)
They know more then your $30 VOA.
The oil you buy is rated, most likely a SN. Doesnt matter if its Super Tech or Mobile 1. They are 100% equal unless proven otherwise.
The only way to prove otherwise is if, for example Mobile 1 released the full range of tests required to earn the API rating.
However, no company ever does, why? because they all meet the same standards, its all marketing, getting into your head, to get you to buy more expensive products, so Mobil stock holders can get a higher return on their investment, which by the way, is Mobils number 1 job, return profits to shareholders.
Bottom line, use the oil type recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, SN ect of ANY brand and the engine will last longer then the components of the vehicle, IF, IF the engine was properly designed.
. I recently switched to walmarts supertech 5w30 synthetic. I know it's a decent oil, I did some research before buying it and people seem to approve it for being a good oil. It's got all the latest certifications and all should be good to go, right?
Despite going in all "well-informed" and buying the stuff at walmart, the price was so cheap I got this feeling that maybe I should 2nd guess the oil. No disrespect to anyone, but realistically I am just reading all this information on the internet. Who knows what kind of misinformation may get compounded over time, and realistically how many of the so called experts on here have chemical engineering degrees with experience in this specific field? Okay, enough of discrediting you guys. Point is that I'm just trying to go about this with a few grains of salt. What I did is to compare VOAs of premium brands to the supertech. ...
Ok, so if I read this correctly, (just talking here) you looked at the VOA of a few oils, VOAs which test for less then a handful of decades old chemicals and think you are making an informed decision?
"so called experts" ? ?specific field" ?
All that information is right on the oil bottle!
Its called the AMERICAN PETROLEUM INSTITUTE.
) They know more then your $30 VOA.
The oil you buy is rated, most likely a SN. Doesnt matter if its Super Tech or Mobile 1. They are 100% equal unless proven otherwise.
The only way to prove otherwise is if, for example Mobile 1 released the full range of tests required to earn the API rating.
However, no company ever does, why? because they all meet the same standards, its all marketing, getting into your head, to get you to buy more expensive products, so Mobil stock holders can get a higher return on their investment, which by the way, is Mobils number 1 job, return profits to shareholders.
Bottom line, use the oil type recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, SN ect of ANY brand and the engine will last longer then the components of the vehicle, IF, IF the engine was properly designed.
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).
Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
Now boutique oils are a whole different animals. I would love to run RedLine, Amsoil, Motul, Ravenol, Schaeffers.......etc..... super-duper premiums.
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9
M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
Now boutique oils are a whole different animals. I would love to run RedLine, Amsoil, Motul, Ravenol, Schaeffers.......etc..... super-duper premiums.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).
Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
There is a lot of assuming going on here. We really cannot say one is better than the other without definitive proof. That is something we don't have access to like detailed composition and ingredient lists.
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9
M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
There is a lot of assuming going on here. We really cannot say one is better than the other without definitive proof. That is something we don't have access to like detailed composition and ingredient lists.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).
Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
There is a lot of assuming going on here. We really cannot say one is better than the other without definitive proof. That is something we don't have access to like detailed composition and ingredient lists.
How about running a test and then call me a liar? Ask your neighbor to follow-suit - then ask every factory robot and live worker on the assembly line to build those two engines exactly the same.
So yes, you are right. But if you believe you can get athat $25 cigar for $15 every day of the week - simply by changing the label, you are living in a pipe dream. That $25 manufacturer wants you name and phone number, so he can find out how to sell his #1 seller, for $10 less.
Stay by the phone today and await that call. There might be a nice reward attached.....
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9
M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
There is a lot of assuming going on here. We really cannot say one is better than the other without definitive proof. That is something we don't have access to like detailed composition and ingredient lists.
How about running a test and then call me a liar? Ask your neighbor to follow-suit - then ask every factory robot and live worker on the assembly line to build those two engines exactly the same.
So yes, you are right. But if you believe you can get athat $25 cigar for $15 every day of the week - simply by changing the label, you are living in a pipe dream. That $25 manufacturer wants you name and phone number, so he can find out how to sell his #1 seller, for $10 less.
Stay by the phone today and await that call. There might be a nice reward attached.....
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Triggered much? If the oils meet the same identical specs and certifications then how do you know one is better than the other? Price point? That is weak. There are pricing strategies that attract buyers.
Is Mobil 1 better than Pennzoil? Is Castrol better than Valvoline? Questions like that need to be answered without emotion.
Is Mobil 1 better than Pennzoil? Is Castrol better than Valvoline? Questions like that need to be answered without emotion.
I can give you 100% that if you use Supertech Synthetic and change it somewhere between 7500-10000 or 1 year, you will NOT have any oil related problems for 300,000+ miles. Heck maybe even 400,000. I guarantee you. No matter how you drive your car. That said i think the spec and viscosity per manufactorer is somewhat important too. Them clowns at the manufactorer dont know it all too. Id always bump up a grade higher say every 100,000 or so no matter if it burns/leaks oil or not. Its not all about oil. I know several people that ran cheapest conventional every 7,000-10,000 and still got 300,000 plus out of the engine. Almost always body will rust out before engine dies. So stop buying fancy oils that dump money into marketing and not their products. Buy Supertech, sleep well.
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Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by Serge
I can give you 100% that if you use Supertech Synthetic and change it somewhere between 7500-10000 or 1 year, you will NOT have any oil related problems for 300,000+ miles. Heck maybe even 400,000. I guarantee you. No matter how you drive your car.
That's a very hard thing to guarantee. Especially with direct injection. And I don't think it's good enough for high performance applications either, I would never recommend it to someone in a new Corvette. But for 99% of the driving public, I'm sure it's fine (especially since most don't go much beyond 150-200k on their cars). I don't think I'd go as far as guaranteeing that someone could go 300-400k without a problem though, that's a very lofty promise you're making without any proof to back it up (do you know a single person that has used Supertech exclusively and gone even 200k let alone 3-400k?). By the time a lot of engines hit 300k they might not be dead, but could be burning a lot of oil (and might not be in that position if it had a higher quality oil)
Also, if you are so confident in this oil, how come you're running it in most of your cars, but NOT in your BMWs?? Supertech does make a European Formula 5w40.
I can give you 100% that if you use Supertech Synthetic and change it somewhere between 7500-10000 or 1 year, you will NOT have any oil related problems for 300,000+ miles. Heck maybe even 400,000. I guarantee you. No matter how you drive your car.
That's a very hard thing to guarantee. Especially with direct injection. And I don't think it's good enough for high performance applications either, I would never recommend it to someone in a new Corvette. But for 99% of the driving public, I'm sure it's fine (especially since most don't go much beyond 150-200k on their cars). I don't think I'd go as far as guaranteeing that someone could go 300-400k without a problem though, that's a very lofty promise you're making without any proof to back it up (do you know a single person that has used Supertech exclusively and gone even 200k let alone 3-400k?). By the time a lot of engines hit 300k they might not be dead, but could be burning a lot of oil (and might not be in that position if it had a higher quality oil)
Also, if you are so confident in this oil, how come you're running it in most of your cars, but NOT in your BMWs?? Supertech does make a European Formula 5w40.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by Serge
I can give you 100% that if you use Supertech Synthetic and change it somewhere between 7500-10000 or 1 year, you will NOT have any oil related problems for 300,000+ miles. Heck maybe even 400,000. I guarantee you. No matter how you drive your car. That said i think the spec and viscosity per manufactorer is somewhat important too. Them clowns at the manufactorer dont know it all too. Id always bump up a grade higher say every 100,000 or so no matter if it burns/leaks oil or not. Its not all about oil. I know several people that ran cheapest conventional every 7,000-10,000 and still got 300,000 plus out of the engine. Almost always body will rust out before engine dies. So stop buying fancy oils that dump money into marketing and not their products. Buy Supertech, sleep well.
... and yet we have multiple members here that say they blow blue smoke at cold startup, with one-third that amount of mileage.
We also have members that used Proline oil for over 300K. It worked fine for them. So the shoe fits either way.
If I want to roll dice, I won't do it with quarts of oil .Instead, I'll go to the Casino.
I can give you 100% that if you use Supertech Synthetic and change it somewhere between 7500-10000 or 1 year, you will NOT have any oil related problems for 300,000+ miles. Heck maybe even 400,000. I guarantee you. No matter how you drive your car. That said i think the spec and viscosity per manufactorer is somewhat important too. Them clowns at the manufactorer dont know it all too. Id always bump up a grade higher say every 100,000 or so no matter if it burns/leaks oil or not. Its not all about oil. I know several people that ran cheapest conventional every 7,000-10,000 and still got 300,000 plus out of the engine. Almost always body will rust out before engine dies. So stop buying fancy oils that dump money into marketing and not their products. Buy Supertech, sleep well.
... and yet we have multiple members here that say they blow blue smoke at cold startup, with one-third that amount of mileage.
We also have members that used Proline oil for over 300K. It worked fine for them. So the shoe fits either way.
If I want to roll dice, I won't do it with quarts of oil .Instead, I'll go to the Casino.
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1993 Civic, it has 535,000 miles now. I have been using Amsoil 0W-30 oil since 118,000 miles.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).
Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
Now boutique oils are a whole different animals. I would love to run RedLine, Amsoil, Motul, Ravenol, Schaeffers.......etc..... super-duper premiums.
Wasn't there a publication from blackstone saying oil brand really doesnt matter? If anyone is going to have good unbiased data it would be them.
Unfortunately your post has too much hearsay and opinion behind it. I was hoping people might have some insight on why additive levels can vary so much, and if more is actually better and what not. I doubt API is going to let me interview an engineer or something. I sent warren an email since they are a relatively transparent company but we'll see.
Also there is a whole thing with psychological pricing,, with one element being that you can raise the price on a good to give the customer the perception that it's higher quality than it actually is.
Now with all the things that you have said, let me ask you this. How do you know who has the better quality blends, base oils, and additives? Also is it more likely that the guys who have monopoly will have the better ingredients or the guys trying to get more market share and prove them selves? We've seen time after time that brands like pennzoil and M1 have cut the quality of the oils, albeit they are still good oils.
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9
M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
Now boutique oils are a whole different animals. I would love to run RedLine, Amsoil, Motul, Ravenol, Schaeffers.......etc..... super-duper premiums.
Wasn't there a publication from blackstone saying oil brand really doesnt matter? If anyone is going to have good unbiased data it would be them.
Unfortunately your post has too much hearsay and opinion behind it. I was hoping people might have some insight on why additive levels can vary so much, and if more is actually better and what not. I doubt API is going to let me interview an engineer or something. I sent warren an email since they are a relatively transparent company but we'll see.
Also there is a whole thing with psychological pricing,, with one element being that you can raise the price on a good to give the customer the perception that it's higher quality than it actually is.
Now with all the things that you have said, let me ask you this. How do you know who has the better quality blends, base oils, and additives? Also is it more likely that the guys who have monopoly will have the better ingredients or the guys trying to get more market share and prove them selves? We've seen time after time that brands like pennzoil and M1 have cut the quality of the oils, albeit they are still good oils.
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).
Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
There is a lot of assuming going on here. We really cannot say one is better than the other without definitive proof. That is something we don't have access to like detailed composition and ingredient lists.
^^ Exactly^^
The post assumes the exhaust will show clear with Pennzoil and blue with Supertech.
I would be just as accurate to say @ 150,000 the exhaust will show blue with Pennzoil and clear with Super Tech. Also Super Tech engine would need less repairs.
There isnt proof in oil that "you get what you pay for" when it comes to engine life as they all meet the same standards, no one excels and no manufacturer ever produces the full range of test results required for API to prove it to the public.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Supertech has to pass the same tests the others do.
Some brands are stronger than others. Some offer better blends. Some offer better quality of those blends. Some offer better base oils.
Some brands are just better than others...... period ...... exclamation point
A perfect example is you and your neighbor buying the same exact vehicle on the same day and running the mileage to 110,000 exactly the same. You run Supertech oil and he runs Pennzoil. At 9
M today you-both start your vehicles. His exhaust on startup shows clear (Pennzoil). Your exhaust on startup shows blue smoke (Supertech).Both live to 200K. But you need to add more engine repairs than he.
Long story short...... You get what you pay for ..... even with engine oils. SOPUS would love to sell their oils at Supertech prices. They cannot because their better additives and base oils cost more - plus they advertise to be the best (in certain areas) at that price-point.
There are different quality levels of additives and base oils. Doesn't everyone know that? A perfect example is walking to a Krogers and looking at the varieties & prices of packaged or canned vegetables.
Quality works the same at Krogers - as it does where oil is manufactured for our vehicles.
There is a lot of assuming going on here. We really cannot say one is better than the other without definitive proof. That is something we don't have access to like detailed composition and ingredient lists.
^^ Exactly^^
The post assumes the exhaust will show clear with Pennzoil and blue with Supertech.
I would be just as accurate to say @ 150,000 the exhaust will show blue with Pennzoil and clear with Super Tech. Also Super Tech engine would need less repairs.
There isnt proof in oil that "you get what you pay for" when it comes to engine life as they all meet the same standards, no one excels and no manufacturer ever produces the full range of test results required for API to prove it to the public.
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90% of cars aren't retired because of long block/oil related issues. Its because the rest of the car falls apart around it and repairs become too frequent or expensive. You combat that by doing repairs in a timely manner and not letting things pile up. Nearly all the cars I see for sale in FB marketplace are for sale because issues have piled up to the point they gave up.
A) buy a car that's known not to have major issues.
B) if you buy a car that has a high cost "maintenance" item ex: Ford 5.4 cam phasers be prepared to change these ON TIME. ex 2: gas engine turbos don't typically last 300k miles. Not even long lasting modern Borg Warner so if you don't intend to replace/rebuild turbos at 150-200k miles don't buy a turbo car.
C) Take care of the rest of the car: Ball joints, bushings, tie-rod ends etc. These done as they wear are reasonable but having to do a whole front end maintenance at once is expensive and many trucks are sold for this reason alone (great for the DIY since the parts are cheap and all the $ is labor).
D) Routine maintenance: oil changes, air filters, fuel filters, transmission fluid, differential and transfer case fluid if applicable etc. However this alone is not going to make for a 300k car. As I've said rarely are cars given up on because the engine/trans blew. Though possible is completely negligent.
E) Replace sensors when they go bad. I'm not a fan of wasting money changing sensors before they go bad (that's what OBD2 is for if you have a 96' up) but when they go bad change them quickly. you can drive a car with bad o2, MAF sensors but you'll be in open loop which means lots of unnecessary momentary lean/rich/imperfect A/F conditions not good for longevity
.
F) Replace gaskets when they go bad. Valve cover and with American cars intake manifold gaskets are a given but many other gaskets will probably go bad before 300k miles.
G) Buy a car with a reliable transmission. there are a crap load of cars with auto and CVT transmissions that virtually never make it to 300k miles. Manuals are typically much more reliable but clutch/flywheel replacement can cost as much as a used transmission for an old popular automatic.
H) Lastly unless you are rich stay away from BMW/Mercedes and German luxury cars. I had a BMW 335i. Here are just a few (dealer) cost I went thru to 200k and these are all were common like 90% except the alternator). I did some myself and independent shops but these were dealer quotes: Oil filter housing gasket-$600, valve cover gasket-$1500, water pump-$1200, Turbos replacement(done under warranty under DEALER DISCRETION)-$3600, Alternator-$1500, Clutch/flywheel/rear seal/trans fluid(didn't even bother asking the dealer. This is independent shop cost)-$2000,right rear wheel bearing- $500. For 300k miles you would have to DOUBLE these cost as most everything listed will have to be done TWICE...so you can see a 300k German luxury brand makes no financial sense what so ever.
A) buy a car that's known not to have major issues.
B) if you buy a car that has a high cost "maintenance" item ex: Ford 5.4 cam phasers be prepared to change these ON TIME. ex 2: gas engine turbos don't typically last 300k miles. Not even long lasting modern Borg Warner so if you don't intend to replace/rebuild turbos at 150-200k miles don't buy a turbo car.
C) Take care of the rest of the car: Ball joints, bushings, tie-rod ends etc. These done as they wear are reasonable but having to do a whole front end maintenance at once is expensive and many trucks are sold for this reason alone (great for the DIY since the parts are cheap and all the $ is labor).
D) Routine maintenance: oil changes, air filters, fuel filters, transmission fluid, differential and transfer case fluid if applicable etc. However this alone is not going to make for a 300k car. As I've said rarely are cars given up on because the engine/trans blew. Though possible is completely negligent.
E) Replace sensors when they go bad. I'm not a fan of wasting money changing sensors before they go bad (that's what OBD2 is for if you have a 96' up) but when they go bad change them quickly. you can drive a car with bad o2, MAF sensors but you'll be in open loop which means lots of unnecessary momentary lean/rich/imperfect A/F conditions not good for longevity
.
F) Replace gaskets when they go bad. Valve cover and with American cars intake manifold gaskets are a given but many other gaskets will probably go bad before 300k miles.
G) Buy a car with a reliable transmission. there are a crap load of cars with auto and CVT transmissions that virtually never make it to 300k miles. Manuals are typically much more reliable but clutch/flywheel replacement can cost as much as a used transmission for an old popular automatic.
H) Lastly unless you are rich stay away from BMW/Mercedes and German luxury cars. I had a BMW 335i. Here are just a few (dealer) cost I went thru to 200k and these are all were common like 90% except the alternator). I did some myself and independent shops but these were dealer quotes: Oil filter housing gasket-$600, valve cover gasket-$1500, water pump-$1200, Turbos replacement(done under warranty under DEALER DISCRETION)-$3600, Alternator-$1500, Clutch/flywheel/rear seal/trans fluid(didn't even bother asking the dealer. This is independent shop cost)-$2000,right rear wheel bearing- $500. For 300k miles you would have to DOUBLE these cost as most everything listed will have to be done TWICE...so you can see a 300k German luxury brand makes no financial sense what so ever.
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Pay attention to fluids. You'll be ahead of most car owners just doing that. I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma with around 225K miles on it. It still looks/drives like new and I've had to do very few repairs on it--mostly wear and tear items.
i change the oil with a quality synthetic and OEM filter every 7500 miles. I change the transmission fluid with Mobil 1 ATF every 30K miles, although I'm moving to a 50K mile schedule now because the fluid looks perfect coming out at 30K miles. I also drain/fill the coolant every other year. Mine has zerk fittings, so I lube it with Amsoil synthetic grease every time I change the oil. I've changed the diff oil once to Mobil 1 75W90 (at around 130K miles) and plan to do it again soon. I don't off-road or anything like that, so I think 100K miles on diff oil is probably OK...especially seeing as how so many people never change the factory fill.
All in all, I'm hoping this maintenance schedule allows me to keep driving my truck indefinitely. I live in the south so there's no salt/rust to contend with. I plan to get 300K miles AT LEAST. But we'll see--some idiot could run into me and total it tomorrow.
i change the oil with a quality synthetic and OEM filter every 7500 miles. I change the transmission fluid with Mobil 1 ATF every 30K miles, although I'm moving to a 50K mile schedule now because the fluid looks perfect coming out at 30K miles. I also drain/fill the coolant every other year. Mine has zerk fittings, so I lube it with Amsoil synthetic grease every time I change the oil. I've changed the diff oil once to Mobil 1 75W90 (at around 130K miles) and plan to do it again soon. I don't off-road or anything like that, so I think 100K miles on diff oil is probably OK...especially seeing as how so many people never change the factory fill.
All in all, I'm hoping this maintenance schedule allows me to keep driving my truck indefinitely. I live in the south so there's no salt/rust to contend with. I plan to get 300K miles AT LEAST. But we'll see--some idiot could run into me and total it tomorrow.
Originally Posted by stanlee
H) Lastly unless you are rich stay away from BMW/Mercedes and German luxury cars. I had a BMW 335i. Here are just a few (dealer) cost I went thru to 200k and these are all were common like 90% except the alternator). I did some myself and independent shops but these were dealer quotes: Oil filter housing gasket-$600, valve cover gasket-$1500, water pump-$1200, Turbos replacement(done under warranty under DEALER DISCRETION)-$3600, Alternator-$1500, Clutch/flywheel/rear seal/trans fluid(didn't even bother asking the dealer. This is independent shop cost)-$2000,right rear wheel bearing- $500. For 300k miles you would have to DOUBLE these cost as most everything listed will have to be done TWICE...so you can see a 300k German luxury brand makes no financial sense what so ever.
OTOH, if you can perform your own maintenance and are willing to shop around a bit for parts, cost of BMW ownership is pretty low. I've found that parts for my E34 and E53 are roughly on par with costs on my Accord.
Going through your list- gaskets are cheap- most of that cost is labor. Turbos are expensive, no way around that (buy a NA car). Alternator- $200. Wheel bearing/hub assembly $150. Clutch kit $200-$300.
As long as you're changing fluids in the engine and transmission,they are pretty stout in nearly all models and can handle 300k. I find it worthwhile as a DIY to get the premium product, as they're quite a bit nicer to drive than the standard Japanese fare. But I agree that for the average person going to their indy for work, it's not a cheap proposition.
H) Lastly unless you are rich stay away from BMW/Mercedes and German luxury cars. I had a BMW 335i. Here are just a few (dealer) cost I went thru to 200k and these are all were common like 90% except the alternator). I did some myself and independent shops but these were dealer quotes: Oil filter housing gasket-$600, valve cover gasket-$1500, water pump-$1200, Turbos replacement(done under warranty under DEALER DISCRETION)-$3600, Alternator-$1500, Clutch/flywheel/rear seal/trans fluid(didn't even bother asking the dealer. This is independent shop cost)-$2000,right rear wheel bearing- $500. For 300k miles you would have to DOUBLE these cost as most everything listed will have to be done TWICE...so you can see a 300k German luxury brand makes no financial sense what so ever.
OTOH, if you can perform your own maintenance and are willing to shop around a bit for parts, cost of BMW ownership is pretty low. I've found that parts for my E34 and E53 are roughly on par with costs on my Accord.
Going through your list- gaskets are cheap- most of that cost is labor. Turbos are expensive, no way around that (buy a NA car). Alternator- $200. Wheel bearing/hub assembly $150. Clutch kit $200-$300.
As long as you're changing fluids in the engine and transmission,they are pretty stout in nearly all models and can handle 300k. I find it worthwhile as a DIY to get the premium product, as they're quite a bit nicer to drive than the standard Japanese fare. But I agree that for the average person going to their indy for work, it's not a cheap proposition.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by benhen77
OTOH, if you can perform your own maintenance and are willing to shop around a bit for parts, cost of BMW ownership is pretty low. I've found that parts for my E34 and E53 are roughly on par with costs on my Accord.
It also helps to find a good mechanic that doesn't charge an arm and a leg. We've had very good luck with our BMW, I think we've only spent about $3000 in repairs over the past 5 years. At $600 per year average that's not unreasonable IMO (although my Civic has cost considerably less, but isn't as much fun to drive as the BMW) The same repairs from a BMW dealer would have cost us almost double what we've spent, their parts and labor are both much higher than the guy we use (he's a firefighter who has his own shop that he works from in his spare time, he used to work for an Audi dealer and was their top mechanic, he was one of the ones certified to work on the R8)
OTOH, if you can perform your own maintenance and are willing to shop around a bit for parts, cost of BMW ownership is pretty low. I've found that parts for my E34 and E53 are roughly on par with costs on my Accord.
It also helps to find a good mechanic that doesn't charge an arm and a leg. We've had very good luck with our BMW, I think we've only spent about $3000 in repairs over the past 5 years. At $600 per year average that's not unreasonable IMO (although my Civic has cost considerably less, but isn't as much fun to drive as the BMW) The same repairs from a BMW dealer would have cost us almost double what we've spent, their parts and labor are both much higher than the guy we use (he's a firefighter who has his own shop that he works from in his spare time, he used to work for an Audi dealer and was their top mechanic, he was one of the ones certified to work on the R8)
After reading through a couple of BMW posts, thought I'd chime in. I'm not a fan of taking "high end" luxury cars the distance, yes you can save taking it to a reputable independent, but in the long run you're spending much more overall. Which is fine, I did it for a while in my Lexus LS460...set aside around $1,000 a year for repairs, spent every penny of that and then some. I'm an ASE tech so I can my own repairs, but when you start creeping up to 200,000 miles you are stuck with a dated car that's costing you much more for common repairs, and you just get tired of it. $300 for a blower motor when they usually cost $100? It gets old. Having to spend $700 for control arms every other year (after market), gets old. And then the big stuff starts to go...it starts drinking oil, a $3,000 dollar brake actuator breaks before Christmas. Not fun anymore. Then you worry about that transmission that's acting a little funny in the cold weather and you're out. Especially when a new Honda Accord is faster and full of technology your old car doesn't have. To each their own but I think if you're going to the distance in a car you're much better off doing it in something known for reasonable repair costs. IMO
When I had my BMW some parts were dealer only, not many. Yes, you have to shop around and it was a hassle. Fortunately, I do my own work and it was, pretty much, problem free. I drove the heck out of it and gave it to my daughter, She drove the hock out of it too.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by Railrust
To each their own but I think if you're going to the distance in a car you're much better off doing it in something known for reasonable repair costs. IMO
But what fun would that be?
Seriously though, if you're going to sit behind the wheel of a car for 300k plus wouldn't you rather do it in a fun German sports sedan? Yes it could cost a lot more, but life is too short to driving boring cars
To each their own but I think if you're going to the distance in a car you're much better off doing it in something known for reasonable repair costs. IMO
But what fun would that be?
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