Hey everyone, so I am going to buy a cheap car around $2,500 for me to drive my girlfriend has to drive to Indiana once a month and 70 miles to work so I am going to let her have the dart as her full time daily. I have come across a few early 2000's BMW's with manual transmissions around 150,000 miles they look decent as well. Condition wise. I'm scared of them mostly because I don't know much about them . What is your thoughts on German cars particularly older BMW's? What should be watched out for? Or should they be avoided all together.
Cheap German cars
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Before you lay down the cash scan them with a good scan tool that can read all the modules in the vehicle. (Don't just look for lights on, on the dash)
Check under the oil filler cap as best as possible for deposits and ask to see maintenance records if they have them. Ask what the oil consumption rate is.
Take it for a drive at low and high speeds and do some cornering in it as well as go over some bumps to check the suspension and drive-shafts.
Also test all the electronics you can.
If it all checks out then consider purchasing the vehicle.
Check under the oil filler cap as best as possible for deposits and ask to see maintenance records if they have them. Ask what the oil consumption rate is.
Take it for a drive at low and high speeds and do some cornering in it as well as go over some bumps to check the suspension and drive-shafts.
Also test all the electronics you can.
If it all checks out then consider purchasing the vehicle.
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The only $2500 German car worth buying is a Saturn Astra. You might be able to get a manual Focus or Fiesta with high mileage for that price or a little more (and ONLY get one of those with the stick--that automatic versions are awful and were recalled over a dozen times for DCT issues). The now-discontinued Fous and Fiesta were mostly designed in Germany by Ford of Europe.
Some Regals of the previous gen were made in Germany as well.
Some Regals of the previous gen were made in Germany as well.
Run Forest , Run.
Finds an old one owner Toyota.
Finds an old one owner Toyota.
In addition to what others have said here's a quick laundry list of common problems with the E46.
Rear sub-frame failure (The sheet metal is too thin where the rear suspension is bolted to the body. It cracks and there's a repair/reinforcement kit available. IIRC there was also a class action settlement.
Window regulator failure
Broken clips for the sunshade (i.e. little trim piece which slides under the sunroof to block out the sun).
Oil sending unit; Oil would travel past the sensor into the wires and cause an intermittent oil light.
VANOS seals (I believe) & VANOS solenoids (easy fix(
Oil Consumption
DISA valve.
PCV blockage causing oil consumption.
Final stage resistor failure.
Cam position sensor failure.
Coolant expansion tank failure. Coolant hoses are probably due for replacement as well. Car is almost 20 yrs old afterall.
Rear sub-frame failure (The sheet metal is too thin where the rear suspension is bolted to the body. It cracks and there's a repair/reinforcement kit available. IIRC there was also a class action settlement.
Window regulator failure
Broken clips for the sunshade (i.e. little trim piece which slides under the sunroof to block out the sun).
Oil sending unit; Oil would travel past the sensor into the wires and cause an intermittent oil light.
VANOS seals (I believe) & VANOS solenoids (easy fix(
Oil Consumption
DISA valve.
PCV blockage causing oil consumption.
Final stage resistor failure.
Cam position sensor failure.
Coolant expansion tank failure. Coolant hoses are probably due for replacement as well. Car is almost 20 yrs old afterall.
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Uber mistake. My nephew bought a 07 BMW x5 6 months ago. Wanted a nice vehicle for his new baby. Its undriveable. the 4.8l engine has a valley pan full of coolant and its a common problem to spring a huge leak. its a $1900 repair and he doesn't have the money. He's paying $250 a month for a car he can't drive. Lured in by the cheapness and the cool factor. Run away as fast as you can.
Originally Posted by Leo99
I'd assume they're cheap for a reason. Seem like cool cars, though, if you have the ability to accept the risk.
You mean aside from the obvious ones of the fact that they're 18-19 years old and have over 150k? That's usually the primary reason.
I'd assume they're cheap for a reason. Seem like cool cars, though, if you have the ability to accept the risk.
You mean aside from the obvious ones of the fact that they're 18-19 years old and have over 150k? That's usually the primary reason.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Given your (lack of) luck with vehicles, I would absolutely NOT recommend you buy a BMW. Period.
If you want something reasonably fun that you'll be able to easily wrench on, pick up an old Mustang or something, heck, even a Charger/Challenger.
If you want something reasonably fun that you'll be able to easily wrench on, pick up an old Mustang or something, heck, even a Charger/Challenger.
Why a German car, and why BMW specifically? Considering the price premium these typically have associated with them, I would expect one in the $2500 range to have at least a few issues. Why not expand your options to other cars?
There is no such thing as a "cheap" BMW or Mercedes.
I have a 2000 528i in reasonably nice shape with 100,000 miles. It runs great, doesn't use oil and everything works. It should sell for at least $5,000. In perfect condition they sell (on a well known auction website) for $10,000.
For $1500 you would probably get a lot of heartache and expense. As they say, "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Rolls Royce." That's probably true for German cars as well.
For $1500 you would probably get a lot of heartache and expense. As they say, "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Rolls Royce." That's probably true for German cars as well.
Originally Posted by 390pi
There is no such thing as a "cheap" BMW or Mercedes.
There is no such thing as a "cheap" BMW or Mercedes.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Given your (lack of) luck with vehicles, I would absolutely NOT recommend you buy a BMW. Period.
If you want something reasonably fun that you'll be able to easily wrench on, pick up an old Mustang or something, heck, even a Charger/Challenger.
I like that idea. Something common with a a lot of support and cheap parts. I thought you bought an SL Saturn?
Given your (lack of) luck with vehicles, I would absolutely NOT recommend you buy a BMW. Period.
If you want something reasonably fun that you'll be able to easily wrench on, pick up an old Mustang or something, heck, even a Charger/Challenger.
I like that idea. Something common with a a lot of support and cheap parts. I thought you bought an SL Saturn?
I would recommend against it.
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
In addition to what others have said here's a quick laundry list of common problems with the E46.
Rear sub-frame failure (The sheet metal is too thin where the rear suspension is bolted to the body. It cracks and there's a repair/reinforcement kit available. IIRC there was also a class action settlement.
Window regulator failure
Broken clips for the sunshade (i.e. little trim piece which slides under the sunroof to block out the sun).
Oil sending unit; Oil would travel past the sensor into the wires and cause an intermittent oil light.
VANOS seals (I believe) & VANOS solenoids (easy fix(
Oil Consumption
DISA valve.
PCV blockage causing oil consumption.
Final stage resistor failure.
Cam position sensor failure.
Coolant expansion tank failure. Coolant hoses are probably due for replacement as well. Car is almost 20 yrs old afterall.
You forgot:
THE REPLACEMENT PARTS ARE 2X OR 3X AS EXPENSIVE AS NON-PREMIUM MAKES' PARTS.
Hope this helps.
OP, run far far away, unless you're able to walk or bike when it breaks.
[edit] I've spent many a Saturday morning on the garage floor under an old E30, had a couple of them. And they were among the more reliable ones, which isn't saying much.
Never again.
In addition to what others have said here's a quick laundry list of common problems with the E46.
Rear sub-frame failure (The sheet metal is too thin where the rear suspension is bolted to the body. It cracks and there's a repair/reinforcement kit available. IIRC there was also a class action settlement.
Window regulator failure
Broken clips for the sunshade (i.e. little trim piece which slides under the sunroof to block out the sun).
Oil sending unit; Oil would travel past the sensor into the wires and cause an intermittent oil light.
VANOS seals (I believe) & VANOS solenoids (easy fix(
Oil Consumption
DISA valve.
PCV blockage causing oil consumption.
Final stage resistor failure.
Cam position sensor failure.
Coolant expansion tank failure. Coolant hoses are probably due for replacement as well. Car is almost 20 yrs old afterall.
You forgot:
THE REPLACEMENT PARTS ARE 2X OR 3X AS EXPENSIVE AS NON-PREMIUM MAKES' PARTS.
Hope this helps.
OP, run far far away, unless you're able to walk or bike when it breaks.
[edit] I've spent many a Saturday morning on the garage floor under an old E30, had a couple of them. And they were among the more reliable ones, which isn't saying much.
Never again.
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Originally Posted by Brons2
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
In addition to what others have said here's a quick laundry list of common problems with the E46.
Rear sub-frame failure (The sheet metal is too thin where the rear suspension is bolted to the body. It cracks and there's a repair/reinforcement kit available. IIRC there was also a class action settlement.
Window regulator failure
Broken clips for the sunshade (i.e. little trim piece which slides under the sunroof to block out the sun).
Oil sending unit; Oil would travel past the sensor into the wires and cause an intermittent oil light.
VANOS seals (I believe) & VANOS solenoids (easy fix(
Oil Consumption
DISA valve.
PCV blockage causing oil consumption.
Final stage resistor failure.
Cam position sensor failure.
Coolant expansion tank failure. Coolant hoses are probably due for replacement as well. Car is almost 20 yrs old afterall.
You forgot:
THE REPLACEMENT PARTS ARE 2X OR 3X AS EXPENSIVE AS NON-PREMIUM MAKES' PARTS.
Hope this helps.
OP, run far far away, unless you're able to walk or bike when it breaks.
[edit] I've spent many a Saturday morning on the garage floor under an old E30, had a couple of them. And they were among the more reliable ones, which isn't saying much.
Never again.
Not really all that expensive. BMW sold a ton of 3-series (E46) and the drivetrain was also shared with the a majority of 5 series (E39).
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
In addition to what others have said here's a quick laundry list of common problems with the E46.
Rear sub-frame failure (The sheet metal is too thin where the rear suspension is bolted to the body. It cracks and there's a repair/reinforcement kit available. IIRC there was also a class action settlement.
Window regulator failure
Broken clips for the sunshade (i.e. little trim piece which slides under the sunroof to block out the sun).
Oil sending unit; Oil would travel past the sensor into the wires and cause an intermittent oil light.
VANOS seals (I believe) & VANOS solenoids (easy fix(
Oil Consumption
DISA valve.
PCV blockage causing oil consumption.
Final stage resistor failure.
Cam position sensor failure.
Coolant expansion tank failure. Coolant hoses are probably due for replacement as well. Car is almost 20 yrs old afterall.
You forgot:
THE REPLACEMENT PARTS ARE 2X OR 3X AS EXPENSIVE AS NON-PREMIUM MAKES' PARTS.
Hope this helps.
OP, run far far away, unless you're able to walk or bike when it breaks.
[edit] I've spent many a Saturday morning on the garage floor under an old E30, had a couple of them. And they were among the more reliable ones, which isn't saying much.
Never again.
Not really all that expensive. BMW sold a ton of 3-series (E46) and the drivetrain was also shared with the a majority of 5 series (E39).
Heck, in that price range, why not consider a commonly available sedan like a Taurus? Parts are everywhere, and cheap, plus they're reasonably easy to work on.
I don't know how close this is to you, but there's this:
https://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/d/rockaway-beach-2007-ford-taurus-sel/6822579961.html
Right in your price range, and I bet you could talk them down a fair bit.
I don't know how close this is to you, but there's this:
https://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/d/rockaway-beach-2007-ford-taurus-sel/6822579961.html
Right in your price range, and I bet you could talk them down a fair bit.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Thread when we bought my wife's cheap 328i for $3,400 + tax:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2510650/1
Plug change:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...42982/how-many-miles-on-these-328i-plugs
Valve cover gasket change:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2592127/not-pretty
Spring replacement:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../replaced-rear-springs-in-the-328i-today
Throttle body problems:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2684554/2000-328i-throttle-body
Transmission problems:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...2000-328i-p0734-4th-gear-ratio-incorrect
We eventually sold it to a friend's friend, with full disclosure, whose dad owned a shop. They were driving it around so I do believe that it was eventually fixed.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2510650/1
Plug change:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...42982/how-many-miles-on-these-328i-plugs
Valve cover gasket change:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2592127/not-pretty
Spring replacement:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../replaced-rear-springs-in-the-328i-today
Throttle body problems:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2684554/2000-328i-throttle-body
Transmission problems:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...2000-328i-p0734-4th-gear-ratio-incorrect
We eventually sold it to a friend's friend, with full disclosure, whose dad owned a shop. They were driving it around so I do believe that it was eventually fixed.
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