Darn brake rotors
- Thread starter Dave Sherman
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Last brake drum I had a terrible time removing, a slide hammer is what eventually worked.
Originally Posted by marine65
Things like this are the reason I take my cars to professionals.
I used to go through this brain damage but have moved on from wrenching my cars.
Then you can go back later and have the professionals change your wheel bearings.
Things like this are the reason I take my cars to professionals.
I used to go through this brain damage but have moved on from wrenching my cars.
Then you can go back later and have the professionals change your wheel bearings.
As you say, I suspect most mechanics on the clock would wail on the rotors with a sledge and replace the rotors. Wheel bearings: brinelled races, life expectancy compromised. Me i use the gentle two bolts / washers / nuts trick... and where space permits - some flatbar for the nuts to bear-on... plus penetrating fluid. Come off with a nice SNAP and a puff of dust
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why not soak it in wd40 overnight? Might be well the try.
Originally Posted by cronk
Hit it harder, it will break loose!
^^^This
Hit it harder, it will break loose!
^^^This
Originally Posted by Cdn17Sport6MT
As you say, I suspect most mechanics on the clock would wail on the rotors with a sledge and replace the rotors. Wheel bearings: brinelled races, life expectancy compromised. Me i use the gentle two bolts / washers / nuts trick... and where space permits - some flatbar for the nuts to bear-on... plus penetrating fluid. Come off with a nice SNAP and a puff of dust
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The rotors would come off if you said please outside of the rustbelt.
As you say, I suspect most mechanics on the clock would wail on the rotors with a sledge and replace the rotors. Wheel bearings: brinelled races, life expectancy compromised. Me i use the gentle two bolts / washers / nuts trick... and where space permits - some flatbar for the nuts to bear-on... plus penetrating fluid. Come off with a nice SNAP and a puff of dust
The rotors would come off if you said please outside of the rustbelt.
Wife's Mitsubishi one rotor came off in three pieces, the other I couldn't get off with oxy-acetylene and an 8 pound sledge hammer. Tied the caliper to the coil spring and brought to the professionals.
I have had this problem with a few rotors / drums .
I am thankful this sort of thing is not a big problem . I do not live in the salt belt .
On a car that has set outside for years , you can even have problems removing steel wheels from the hubs .
I am thankful this sort of thing is not a big problem . I do not live in the salt belt .
On a car that has set outside for years , you can even have problems removing steel wheels from the hubs .
The rear parking drum seized up so bad one time in my subaru. I put it in reverse and the other 3 tires were turned while the one just slid across the garage floor in the same position.
Doused it in liquid wrench overnight and was able to get it moving again.
I would start by soaking the area overnight with penetrating oil.
Doused it in liquid wrench overnight and was able to get it moving again.
I would start by soaking the area overnight with penetrating oil.
Originally Posted by slybunda
And what method did the professionals use?
Most likely an 8lb hammer instead of 4lb.
And like was mentioned before, start saving for new wheel bearings.
And what method did the professionals use?
Most likely an 8lb hammer instead of 4lb.
And like was mentioned before, start saving for new wheel bearings.
Just went through this on a 14 Focus. It was horrible! At first, anyway,
I used a MAP torch for a couple of minutes. Then shot lots of penetrant around the flange and into the lug holes. Spin it around, rinse, repeat.
When using the big hammer, strike the hat on the edge. It's counter intuitive to hit it in, not out. MUCH more effective than hitting the swept area and not likely to break the disc.
Heat. WD-40. Hit smarter, not harder. By the time I got to number 4 it was off in 10 minutes.
I used a MAP torch for a couple of minutes. Then shot lots of penetrant around the flange and into the lug holes. Spin it around, rinse, repeat.
When using the big hammer, strike the hat on the edge. It's counter intuitive to hit it in, not out. MUCH more effective than hitting the swept area and not likely to break the disc.
Heat. WD-40. Hit smarter, not harder. By the time I got to number 4 it was off in 10 minutes.
Originally Posted by antonmnster
Just went through this on a 14 Focus. It was horrible! At first, anyway,
I used a MAP torch for a couple of minutes. Then shot lots of penetrant around the flange and into the lug holes. Spin it around, rinse, repeat.
When using the big hammer, strike the hat on the edge. It's counter intuitive to hit it in, not out. MUCH more effective than hitting the swept area and not likely to break the disc.
Heat. WD-40. Hit smarter, not harder. By the time I got to number 4 it was off in 10 minutes.
Thanks. When you say hit the hat on the edge, do you mean hit it on the edge of the flat face where the studs are, or on the side of the step?
Just went through this on a 14 Focus. It was horrible! At first, anyway,
I used a MAP torch for a couple of minutes. Then shot lots of penetrant around the flange and into the lug holes. Spin it around, rinse, repeat.
When using the big hammer, strike the hat on the edge. It's counter intuitive to hit it in, not out. MUCH more effective than hitting the swept area and not likely to break the disc.
Heat. WD-40. Hit smarter, not harder. By the time I got to number 4 it was off in 10 minutes.
Thanks. When you say hit the hat on the edge, do you mean hit it on the edge of the flat face where the studs are, or on the side of the step?
The best luck I had was with hitting this edge and rotating 45 degrees. Hit few times, rotate, hit, rotate.
These don't have to be hard blows, just normal hits to create a shock, so that the rust can break up.
These don't have to be hard blows, just normal hits to create a shock, so that the rust can break up.
When the back rotors on my 240 were completely rusted on I got them off by inserting a very long and sturdy screwdriver between the splash plate and the rotor, bracing the back of the splashguard with one hand and yanking on the screwdriver with the other until the rotors just popped off. Hammers, chisels and all sorts had got me nowhere but a bit of torque did the trick.
I use plenty of good ceramic brake grease on the mating surfaces when reassembling brakes.
I use plenty of good ceramic brake grease on the mating surfaces when reassembling brakes.
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Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
Coated rotors are awesome
It technically doesn't help, still requires some sledge hammer pounding to break them loose.
What does work is after you get them off to do some prep work for next time:
1) Clean the hubs of loose dirt and corrosion
2) Apply a thin layer of antiseize to the hub face
then you get less of a chance the rotor seizing to the hub
Coated rotors are awesome
It technically doesn't help, still requires some sledge hammer pounding to break them loose.
What does work is after you get them off to do some prep work for next time:
1) Clean the hubs of loose dirt and corrosion
2) Apply a thin layer of antiseize to the hub face
then you get less of a chance the rotor seizing to the hub
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