book of matches for tune up?

[marine65]

Back in the '60s we would use a book of matches to help tune up our cars.
We would set the gap on the plugs using the flat side of a paper match as a gap gauge.
Then use the match book cover to set the gap on the points.
Used this method on multiple engines and car makes.
Don't know how close this was to factory specs but the cars all ran fine.

 

[spasm3]

I filed points before setting them. You could have a pit on one side and a peak on the other.

 

[gman2304]

I would use the striking portion of the matchbook to file the points then the matchbook cover as a feeler gauge. Worked like a charm.

 

[WobblyElvis]

On the 65 VW bug I would file the points in situ with a nail file, set the gap by eye and then rotate the distributor by hand. I left the distributor a little loose but it never turned on it's own. Then turn the AM radio up loud between stations, rotate the engine by hand and watch for the timing mark on the crank to pass the fixed timing mark. The radio would make a loud pop when the coil fired. Rotate distributor as needed

 

[Chris142]

Plug and point gaps were not that critical. As long as the points opened and closed. Plugs would fire as long as there was a gap.

 

[Sayjac]

Seemed like we always had a feeler guage set around for points and plugs so can't remember using matches.

I do remember getting first dwell meter to set the points, I thought that was really slick. In fact at the time, greatest thing since sliced bread.

 

[46Harry]

Back in the old days, I remember people saying they set the plug and point gap with a match book cover. I never did that as I bought a feeler gauge set from Sears at an early age to use for setting points and plugs. I still have feeler gauge sets in the tool box as both my 62 Studebaker Hawk and 1963 Avanti have dual point distributors in them. I set the points initially with a feeler gauge and then use a dwell meter for the final set. The feeler gauge gets the point gap close, but after the points have been in service for a while, a dwell meter should be used for setting the points.

 

[Bud]

Originally Posted by 46Harry
Back in the old days, I remember people saying they set the plug and point gap with a match book cover. I never did that as I bought a feeler gauge set from Sears at an early age to use for setting points and plugs. I still have feeler gauge sets in the tool box as both my 62 Studebaker Hawk and 1963 Avanti have dual point distributors in them. I set the points initially with a feeler gauge and then use a dwell meter for the final set. The feeler gauge gets the point gap close, but after the points have been in service for a while, a dwell meter should be used for setting the points.


There you go. This was the way I would do it also and still do today with my old MGB.

 

[spasm3]

You don't hear the term dwell angle much anymore.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by WobblyElvis
On the 65 VW bug I would file the points in situ with a nail file, set the gap by eye and then rotate the distributor by hand. I left the distributor a little loose but it never turned on it's own. Then turn the AM radio up loud between stations, rotate the engine by hand and watch for the timing mark on the crank to pass the fixed timing mark. The radio would make a loud pop when the coil fired. Rotate distributor as needed


We always used a test light on the old bugs.

 

[Uphill_Both_Ways]

Originally Posted by spasm3
You don't hear the term dwell angle much anymore.
Only in drives down memory lane do you hear much of distributors, condensers, six-volt systems, positive-ground systems, vacuum wipers, streamlined, flatheads, foot-switch high beams, left-thread wheel lugs (driver's side only), split-V spark plugs, Ford vapour lock, dashboard sun-visor periscopes, white walls, curb feelers (to protect the white walls), suicide knobs, suicide doors, suicide—> bumper stickers, reflective tape strips on bumpers, frost shields, arm signals, opening the door to signal left turns, after-market turn signals, tube-radio warmup and way, way back, driving up steep hills in reverse thanks to gravity-feed gas lines.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted by spasm3
You don't hear the term dwell angle much anymore.
I have an old Snap on Dwell meter that I look at and ponder . I look at the meter at least one a month

 

[wings&wheels]

Did that on my first TR6, with a folded piece of fine emery paper to clean up the points. Was replaced by a neat little Lucas gap and screwdriver tool.

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted by Sayjac
Seemed like we always had a feeler guage set around for points and plugs so can't remember using matches.
I do remember getting first dwell meter to set the points, I thought that was really slick. In fact at the time, greatest thing since sliced bread.

I never used a matchbook cover. Since I occasionally work on old tractors and classic cars, I still use a dwell meter. It's the only accurate way.

 

[OVERKILL]

In a pinch? Yes, I've done it to clean-up and set a set of points to get something operational. Usually I used feeler gauges and a file though.

 

[bunnspecial]

The business cards that my work uses are 15 thousandths, which coincidentally is the specified point gap on the MGB. I often use that in preference to a feeler gauge as I've found that it's easy to inadvertently twist the gauge and force the points open further while tightening the screw.

Having grown up in the era of electronic ignitions and fuel injection, the MGB is the only car I've dealt with that has points, but at the same time I've installed and/or gapped points in many MGs aside from mine. In my experience, the car will generally run well with anything from 13 to 18 thousands, but anything beyond that can start causing misfires. If I'm installing a new set in someone else's car, I will often gap them to 18-in a few hundred miles a new set of current production points with a plastic rubbing block will close up to ~13-15 as the block beds to the cam.

Admittedly, I now run a capacitive discharge ignition(Winterburn) which just uses the points as a trigger and is a lot less sensitive to gap than Kettering ignition. Since there's very little current flowing through the points, too(with no 300V+ arcs from "ringing"), the contacts essentially last forever.