Would this electric spray paint gun work for Krown rustproofing?

[slacktide_bitog]

I am too far from any shop that does Krown (closest is over 2 hours away), Corrosion Free 3000, etc. So I'm trying to find the cheapest way to do a good DIY job. A gallon of Rust Cure/Corrosion Free 3000 costs $65 on their site. A pair of two aerosol cans is $30, so 6 cans would be $90 since they don't have any bulk aerosol quantities listed on their site, except for a package that's over $500 with 6 cans, a 5-gallon pail, and a very expensive spray gun (or $325 with a cheaper spray gun).

Air compressors are so expensive, and the spray guns are pricey, too! Trying to decide whether it's even worth it to buy one, or just buy a bunch of cans.

Krown is $50 for 6 cans, but I recently learned about the CF 3000, and it seems to be better than Krown. However, regardless of what oil I actually use, I'd buy some Krown Salt eliminator to keep on hand.

I found this electric spray gun for $20 at Harbor Freight. It's primarily designed for spray painting, but could it also be used for rustproofing? This seems like the best option, the gallon of CF3000 and this electric spray gun.

HF also has this air compressor for just under $60. Their spray guns are $20, so total would be $80.

What would be the best way to go?
The electric spray gun
The compressor and spray gun
Just buy the aerosol cans
Drive the 2+ hours to the Krown shop

 

[joegreen]

$60 air compressor is not going to cut it for spraying. That $20 sprayer will probably work. I would just drive the 2+ hours to get it done. You wouldn't believe how messy it can be to spray the rust proofing and it's more laborious than you think.

 

[Trav]

Noxudol will do a better job than either of those products. The 700 is light and dries faster and can be used under the car and inside panels. 5 cans should do the whole car and It will last a min of 3 years.
Toyota uses Noxudo (another #) on the replacement frames and to protect existing frames in good condition. This is a very good product and cheaper in the long run. You can call Noxudol and tell them what you are looking to do and they will make a recommendation.

https://www.noxudolusa.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Noxudol-Rust...d=1550238326&s=automotive&sr=1-7

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Compressor and spray gun. I did that for years and it worked pretty well!

Just gotta be careful that you don't accidentally end up taking an oil bath. did that a few times myself.

 

[Cujet]

A cheap pancake air compressor and a small "detail" paint gun will work just fine, once adjusted for the oil's viscosity. You really won't be spraying more than about 10% of the time, so the compressor will catch up without difficulty.

 

[Driz]

It'll have to be nice and hot( liquid) to spray. I just mixed up a batch of chainsaw bar oil, used ATF and petroleum jelly yesterday myself. That's gotta be hot too in order to spray.

 

[Saul]

Cheap compressors will not usually work for air tools requiring continuous use, like a HVLP gun. All compressors produce 90-120 psi, and the tank is only indicative of how much air it can store. Actualy flow rate of air is measures of CFM. The HVLP guns on harbor freight require 12 CFM @ 45 psi. The compressor can only produce 1CFM @ 40 psi or .06 at 90.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Originally Posted by Trav
Noxudol will do a better job than either of those products. The 700 is light and dries faster and can be used under the car and inside panels. 5 cans should do the whole car and It will last a min of 3 years.
Toyota uses Noxudo (another #) on the replacement frames and to protect existing frames in good condition. This is a very good product and cheaper in the long run. You can call Noxudol and tell them what you are looking to do and they will make a recommendation.

https://www.noxudolusa.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Noxudol-Rust...d=1550238326&s=automotive&sr=1-7




Thanks!

There are a couple places that do the Noxudol in a reasonable distance! Even closer than the other 2 I was considering! Thank you so much! In fact, one of them is a Toyota dealer, which makes since given the Tacoma frames, and now they sell a rebadged Mazda 3 (Mazda being very rust-prone)

 

[StevieC]

I'm not familiar with the Nox stuff, but if it creeps into seems etc. then I would go with that over doing it yourself. If the Nox stuff doesn't creep, you might want to get a couple cans of the Krown Aerosol and shoot it up the drain holes in the bottoms of your doors and into your panels where possible before using the Nox stuff so because you get some into the folded / welded metal seems that the Krown creeping ability can do.

 

[buck91]

I do my 2011 each year with bulk fluid film through a harbor freight airless sprayer. I use the larger one and just drop the induction hose into my jug of FF.

 

[nthach]

Those hand-held Wagners may not cut the mustard for Fluid Film/Krown/Cosmoline - and the solvents may attack the packings and O-rings in those sprayers. HVLP or airless spraying is recommended for a lot of these coatings for good reason.

Since it's cheap enough, give it a shot. You might need to thin things down a little with mineral spirits. Wear respiratory protection.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by nthach
Those hand-held Wagners may not cut the mustard for Fluid Film/Krown/Cosmoline - and the solvents may attack the packings and O-rings in those sprayers. HVLP or airless spraying is recommended for a lot of these coatings for good reason.

Since it's cheap enough, give it a shot. You might need to thin things down a little with mineral spirits. Wear respiratory protection.


+1 I use an air compressor with a rust proofing gun with the wands, for the doors, rocker panels, etc. As far as the undercarriage, nothing beats an airless sprayer imo.

 

[Trav]

Frank, your gun has a nozzle for use without wands for heavier coatings, have you tied that? I think you will find it just as good as airless.