2015 duramax, UOA schaeffer's 15 40

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wjm

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First sample on this truck after 1st run on schaeffer's. Miles from the whole year is the only reason I changed it.

Screenshot_20190211-170206_Drive.jpg
 
Even tried saving the image and then zooming in...pixelates before number are large enough to read. Is it possible to upload something other than a screen shot of your phone maybe?
 
There was 4550 miles on the oil. Just wondering if there is really much difference of protection from this versus a dino oil if only going to put around 5k miles a year? Don't care about the cost just the best product
 
Depends on what your definition of best is, but I seriously doubt your engine would notice a difference between this or any other conventional 15W-40 over a 5k mile OCI.
 
Ok thanks kinda what I was thinking. Is it something to go by 12 months or actually go by the drain intervals? I figured a year was long enough
 
If your low annual mileage is very short in town driving ( for which an emissions controlled diesel is unsuitable anyways) I would change every year. But in that case you have bigger problems i.e. the DPF.
If it is infrequent longer trips I would recommend extending OCI to at least 10k miles/2yr or longer. Oil does not degrade just sitting in the crankcase.
 
Ok thanks, 90% is pulling my fithwheel camper weighs around 11k dry. Unless I'm not reading it correctly, I thought schaeffer's had a lot of moly and higher zinc? From this sample it doesn't look much different than a sample I saw of Mobil delvec 1300 for a dino oil. Any insight on that?
 
I can assure you with total, absolute certainty that the Dmax engine could not possible care less what's in the crankcase, as long as it's a properly spec'd lube. Brand and grade mean absolutely zilch to this engine series. None. Zip. Nada.

If you intend to stick to one or two year OCIs, based on the miles you drive, there is no reason to use anything but a conventional 10w-30 or 15w-40. Either grade will provide excellent wear control and save you a ton of cash. I routinely ran 3 year OCIs out to 12k miles, on dino 10w-30 and had nothing but great results, even when hauling my RV out to the Rockies and back, multiple times. Honestly you can follow the IOLM in a Dmax and just use dino oil. Unless you suspect a contamination issue, UOAs are pretty much worthless on a Dmax; they've never showed an issue in a healthy engine, and the only proof they provide is that these engines are completely and utterly immune to brand/grade oil choices. It would be impossible for me to overstate this fact; 6.6L Dmax engines are some of the best wearing light-duty diesel engines out there, and they simply do not show any preference whatsoever to any brand/grade of oil, regardless of what your emotions thinks are important.

Probably the best thing going for your generation of Dmax is that there exists a fuel injection nozzle downstream of the cylinders, in the exhaust, for the DPF purpose. This means no fuel dilution that's otherwise common in other compliant diesel engines. (this is presuming you're stock). No need to worry about cylinder's washing down with excess fuel. I wish all the other diesel engines had this strategy; worth the extra expense in OEM design if you ask me.

If you intend to GREATLY increase the miles you drive annually, or spread the duration out over many years, then the syn might make sense. This would be smart only if you monitor with UOAs.

I have over 550 Dmax 6.6L UOAs in my database. I do statistical process quality control for a living. I would know if these engines had an oil preference. Trust me; they don't.
 
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I've got a 2019 L5P and I am in agreement with dnewton3's opinion on Duramax oil needs. I'm currently on the single dealer change which is Delvac, probably dino, and will test that at 5K on the oil. Next change will be Super Tech and after that Rotella T5 and then a Schaeffer's. The only reason I'm doing this will be to add to the L5P database. The new engine shares only a name and displacement with prior generation Duramax's. Hopefully it's as easy on oil. It probably is.
 
Originally Posted by dnewton3
If you intend to stick to one or two year OCIs, based on the miles you drive, there is no reason to use anything but a conventional 10w-30 or 15w-40.


Dave, the 15w40 he's running is Schaeffer's basic syn-blend oil. They don't make a straight conventional unless you use #151 Moly Bond X-200 which only has a CI-4 rating with a TBN of 12...
 
Nice report, Nice seeing another lml UOA. Trust me find cheapest CK-4 Oil and run it, Dmax will keep on going no matter what it has as long as its healthy engine. (Sensors and eletronics all working properly)
The current oil im running is T6 Only because it got it for 35$ for 2.5g as damaged jug, Shoot ill run [censored] out if it for 35$ but normally I go with delvac 1300 or whatever is cheapest.
 
Thanks! I've been a schaeffer's user for years on vehicles and equipment and I'm really convinced that there isn't much difference between running delvec or schaeffer's with the low hrs/miles put on per year.
 
It's to my understanding that it's bad to keep oil in the engine longer than 1 year, especially if you aren't running normally longer trips. The idea being that while the oil won't necessarily degrade due to time, it can start to accumulate moisture over time?

Is that just not correct? That's the main reason I change my oils out each year in my 08 Ram and 10 Jeep gassers. They both run 5W-20 full synthetic oil and do not get driven enough to need more than the annual change (usually done when I get the inspections done)
 
No - that is not correct. Most any engine made in the last few decades has a sealed PCV system; the idea of moisture intrusion is over-rated today.

I've let oil set in my crankcase in my ol' Mustang, Kubota, Dmax and others, and never seen any substantiated risk develop, even up to 3 years of the same oil load.
 
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