Help me make an inline coolant filter!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 10, 2005
Messages
1,864
Location
Erie, PA
On my 01 Taurus the cooling system is kind of dirty even with the new coolant. The previous owner never changed the factory fill. I want to install a coolant filter in the heater hose and run it for a few weeks to collect the [censored]. I want to make it out of odd bits and it needs to be cheap. I am fully aware I can buy a header from a truck garage and a precharged spin on filter but they exceed $100 and will just plug up instantly with the amount of [censored] in this system.
 
I bought a Tefba for 98 Taurus. Seems like they are not really being marketed anymore.
Mine never seemed to be able to catch a whole lot. The 96-98 Taurus vulcan engine has a big TSB on cooling system flush procedures. Most likely that is the one you have?

The problem with putting it in the heater hose is that it won't catch a lot of the stuff in the block area. It will help keep the heater core clean though. I have made a filter out of garden hose male and female hose ends. Just find the stainles hose washer like comes on clothes washers and slap it in there. They do come in different micron ratings though. Too fine might restrict your interior heat.

I am replacing the radiator in my 98 Taurus right now. The TSB has you take out 2 core plugs to flush the block. I have done this to 2 Taurus vulcan engines on engine stands.
Pretty hard to do in the vehicle. I will say that there was a lot of junk in the lower portion of the engine stand blocks. It seems to settle in that area and is not easy to get out.

I could never getextra seals from the place I ordered it from.
 
This is what you need to do:
1) Google Gano Coolant Filter

2) Google Filter Trap

Both of these items are coolant filters that mount in your upper radiator hose. I believe both of these companies are out in California. oilboy123 is right about putting a filter in the heater hose, it will not catch much junk.
 
Probably the cheapest large filter you can find is to follow these steps: Buy a remote oil filter mount. Summit Racing has them for about $25 including shipping. Install 2 brass elbows in the size of your heater hose that fit in the mount. Cut one heater hose line. Buy two hose clamps and clamp the hoses on. Be sure to get the direction of flow correct or the water won't flow. Buy a cheap oil filter (yes, oil) and attach it. Altogether, it should be under $50.
You can keep replacing the oil filters for a few dollars each until the fluid is clean.
 
Just got done replacing my 98 Taurus vulcan radiator. I removed the 2 side tanks and the core is pretty much spotless.
This is on the 96-98 sludge monstors. Maybe you have some of this stuff happening with yours? It seems like these three years had rust settle in the block area. That is why the TSB wants people with these years to remove 2 core plugs and flush.
I could not see any easy way to remove them on the car.

The coolant had 4 years 22K miles. It had some rusty coolant color. I flushed it pretty well. Filled it with distilled water and ran a few miles on the freeway goosing it in 3rd gear to agitate the rust.
I then drained the water that still had some rusty tint. I then refilled with Amsoil premo Coolant. Seeing how clean the radiator is I am not sure how much benefit you will see using a filter. In fact I removed the Tefba filter because I did not feel it took out enough junk to even worry about. I was replacing the top hose anyway.

The next flush I do "If I still have the car" I might try removing a core plug or two. The ones that go in use an O-ring and go in pretty easy.
 
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
Just got done replacing my 98 Taurus vulcan radiator. I removed the 2 side tanks and the core is pretty much spotless.
This is on the 96-98 sludge monstors. Maybe you have some of this stuff happening with yours? It seems like these three years had rust settle in the block area. That is why the TSB wants people with these years to remove 2 core plugs and flush.
I could not see any easy way to remove them on the car.

The coolant had 4 years 22K miles. It had some rusty coolant color. I flushed it pretty well. Filled it with distilled water and ran a few miles on the freeway goosing it in 3rd gear to agitate the rust.
I then drained the water that still had some rusty tint. I then refilled with Amsoil premo Coolant. Seeing how clean the radiator is I am not sure how much benefit you will see using a filter. In fact I removed the Tefba filter because I did not feel it took out enough junk to even worry about. I was replacing the top hose anyway.



I was / am amazed at the first media change results of my Coolant Bypass filter. I back flushed via the heater hose tee with a garden hose for a long time. Followed up with distelled water a few times and then added the G-5 Coolant.

10 - 11 months of use and the filter shows "casting sand and debris " even after all the flushing. Leads me to look forward to the second change to see if the filter collects less debris.

I am sold on the effectiveness of the the bypass filter in general, both oil,atf and coolant.
 
A hose in good condition wouldn't break for an ordinary sized filter, but it may cause it to sag and crimp the hose. Then you would need to attach it to something. That could require a longer hose.
 
Originally Posted By: Shaman
trynew, will the hose support the filter? I was wondering about using an inline fuel filter.


Would the fuel filter media hold up to coolant? Our ford's have a small return line to the resivoir that a fuel filter would be perfect for.
 
I guess this is an old post but from a search could not find much about inline coolant filters.

I have two Jeeps an XJ and ZJ with 4.0L cast iron block. The XJ I installed a Wix bypass type coolant filter on the return heater hose from the heater core.

Due to the 4.0L engine block not being made from alum. there appears to be more iron and metal build up than normal in coolant.

AFAIK both my Jeeps the heater core always has coolant flowing through it as there are no heater core (hose) coolant valve(s) such as some of the older Jeeps have. Heat is controlled through a blend door.

So I suspect using this type of coolant filter with spin on filter is able to filter finer particles down to around 20-25-30 microns.

The inline such as from Champion I with cleanable filter screen because of problems with coolant pressure and flow rate wouldn't be able to filter finer particles.

I e-mailed Champion asking about specs for their inline coolant filtering but haven't hear back from them yet.

Anyway I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with Champions inline coolant filter?

https://www.championradiators.com/product/Filter6461

I'm looking at one on eBay for the ZJ 4.0L that runs approx. $62.00 with free shipping.

or I may just find another filter kit such as from Wix for approx. $37.00 and save a few dollars. I'm fairly certain there's always coolant flowing through heater core as there are no valves to prevent coolant from flowing.

This type of coolant filter, filters a percentage of the coolant over a longer period of time.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top