Wife's RAV4, burnt clutch, DIY

[Superflan]

Originally Posted by KrisZ

Wow! You learn something new everyday. I never encountered or heard of something like this before. The fluid must've been really gunky to hold off the clutch plate pressure.
Thanks for sharing this.ðŸ‘

Yeah me neither. The gunk looked like blue « marine » grease

Originally Posted by mk378
Sounds like contaminated fluid, in that case the only cure is to replace both cylinders and flush the line well.

I'll monitor things carefully but now it's working good

 

[benjy]

todays clutches being hydraulic generally feed of brake fluid reservoir, at least my 11 nissan frontier does. changing + flushing all fluid is generally every 5 years. can't say anything but good luck + as noted single mass fly + aftermarket can be a lot cheaper, look for you tubes + buy a service manual for specific torques. i would join + look at a Rav IV specific forum as well, good luck!!

 

[JC1]

The OP is in Reunion Island, I doubt there's a HF location close by.

I would try the job myself. Probably need two weekends to get it all done...

Here is a link which may help you. Not sure if any special tools are needed to access everything.

https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/how-fit-clutch-toyota-rav4/

 

[Lolvoguy]

Hope it's just a hydraulic issue.
I had something similar with my BMW several years ago. The slave was fed off the master cyl (shared res.) and once the brake fluid went low enough, it caused issues with the slave.

Another vote for FWD/RWD

 

[Silk]

I doubt the hydraulics would wear out the clutch, the release bearing and fingers maybe, but not the clutch plate.

I haven't done the later models, but the first RAV4's were a really pain. you can't pull the gearbox back because it hits the transfer box, you can't remove the transfer because it hits the block. In the shop it's easier to drop the powertrain on the floor and jiggle it all apart. A young guy at work did one in the car last year, it looked nasty because he had the engine hanging at an angle to get the box down. Not something I'd do at home that's for sure.

 

[Cujet]

I'd make extremely sure the pressure plate has free play at the fingers. As a clutch disk wears the free play decreases. Replacement parts may have different dimensions and take up any slack faster.

 

[Superflan]

New parts

 

[Audios]

Wheres Extra EU?

 

[mk378]

I read that to mean "somewhere not in the EU." The telephone number would lead to Verona, Italy though.

 

[Superflan]

So, the [censored] clutch kit is out. Rivets were licking pressure plate.

Jack up the car, remove wheels, detach control arms, detach wheel pivots, remove x member, remove front driveshafts, remove half airbox, detach clutch slave cylinder, lines, remove starter motor, jack up engine, remove gearbox, done.

It took 3 hours for me and a brother's friend who did it on his RAV4 weeks ago.

Now I need to shave the flywheel that is in bad shape before putting it all back together

Next on Monday with pics

 

[eljefino]

well done!

 

[mk378]

Originally Posted by Superflan
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...Number/8856/filename/20190209_135647.jpg

I guess you get used to working like this, being in the Southern Hemisphere.

 

[KrisZ]

Nice job!

Hiwever, before spending money on resurfacing the flyweel, I would make sure you have enough thickness to play with. It just may be too far gone if the rivets were digging in.

 

[George7941]

The fingers look very long. All the diaphragm spring clutches I have seen have shorter fingers and part of the diaphragm can been seen, unlike this one where the pressure plate cover hides the diaphragm.

 

[Superflan]

Originally Posted by mk378
Originally Posted by Superflan
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...Number/8856/filename/20190209_135647.jpg
I guess you get used to working like this, being in the Southern Hemisphere.

It was a joke waiting to happen

Originally Posted by KrisZ
However, before spending money on resurfacing the flyweel, I would make sure you have enough thickness to play with. It jus may be too far if the rivets were digging in.
The rivets (those in the friction disc) didnt touch on the flywheel side, only on the pressure plate side, resulting in asymmetrical wear between both sides of the friction disc. I'll take pics of worn parts tomorrow with a full phone battery

 

[supton]

Dumb question: any easier to lift the engine instead? I see you've got it out and done with already, but if I was facing this job, I'd be wondering about that option.

Edit: good job! Sounds like it was quite the task.

 

[antonmnster]

Nice work!

 

[Superflan]

Attached you'll find the best I can do for now with the flywheel.

Didn't machine the ring where the dowels come because after balancing there was still a 0.05mm warp. I left that part zlone

 

[KrisZ]

The flywheel was definitely heat stressed. Cracks are a dead giveaway, but the different shade spots show the localized overheating quite well. It will probably hold up, but I would take it easy.

 

[Superflan]

Originally Posted by KrisZ
The flywheel was definitely heat stressed. Cracks are a dead giveaway, but the different shade spots show the localized overheating quite well. It will probably hold up, but I would take it easy.

Yeah I will not drag race it.

Today I have to put CV shafts back, suspension, replace a tie rod and it should be rolling