5w30 really better protection?

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Please, not another one of these "thick vs. thin" threads. The site is littered and choked with them already.

The very definition of a troll thread on here.

Yet your sure to comment on it. "Birds of the same feather flock together" is that how the saying goes?
No offense to the op. Your question might be perfectly legit. Just making a point

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by Pinoak
Originally Posted by kschachn
Please, not another one of these "thick vs. thin" threads. The site is littered and choked with them already.

The very definition of a troll thread on here.
Yet your sure to comment on it. "Birds of the same feather flock together" is that how the saying goes?
No offense to the op. Your question might be perfectly legit. Just making a point

How would you know so much about me being new to Bitog?

Right.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Originally Posted by bullwinkle
As always, UOAs tell the whole story, preferably NOT Blackstone if you have a GDI engine prone to excessive fuel in the oil (they tend to under-report fuel).


Please, yes, please show me just one person on here who had a Blackstone UOA done where the fuel % caused their engine to fail. You're perpetuating an unproven myth at this point since the actual effects are not quantifiable by a $25 UOA. Blackstone does plenty enough of UOAs that if there were failures shortly after a "good" report that were tied to fuel %, Blackstone would likely move to a higher-accuracy test method like Polaris or some of the other labs use.

As a matter of fact, I don't even think we've seen a truly "ugly" UOA from known diluters such as the 3.5 EcoBoost engines... sure, the ppm/1k is higher than some port-injected engines... but every engine family will have different inherent "normal" wear rates.

Use a manufacturer-recommended certification and weight, and change at manufacturer-recommended intervals or when the OLM says to. Your engine will almost certainly not fail because of the oil.

 

[StevieC]

It's not about "failures" it about "accurate data" on fuel numbers so you can make an informed decision as to what length you can run the oil in your application. Why pay for a UOA and only get partially accurate data?

Perhaps you can trend your wear metal counts downward by keeping what fuel dilution does happen in your samples lower? How are you going to make that assertion using "interpreted" fuel numbers?

As for... "Use a manufacturer-recommended certification and weight, and change at manufacturer-recommended intervals or when the OLM says to. Your engine will almost certainly not fail because of the oil."
Let's talk about the Honda 1.5T in northern climates as an example where this isn't working...

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Originally Posted by kschachn
Please, not another one of these "thick vs. thin" threads. The site is littered and choked with them already.

The very definition of a troll thread on here.
Yet your sure to comment on it. "Birds of the same feather flock together" is that how the saying goes?
No offense to the op. Your question might be perfectly legit. Just making a point

How would you know so much about me being new to Bitog?

Right.

Lets see, because you have trolled just about every one of my post. Its like your my Paparazzi. Its actually kinda creepy dude

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by Pinoak
Lets see, because you have trolled just about every one of my post. Its like your my Paparazzi. Its actually kinda creepy dude

Correcting error is not trolling.

And it is nowhere near "just about every one of my post", you think too highly of me.

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Pinoak
Lets see, because you have trolled just about every one of my post. Its like your my Paparazzi. Its actually kinda creepy dude

Correcting error is not trolling.

And it is nowhere near "just about every one of my post", you think too highly of me.

Do they issue online restraining orders?

 

[dave1251]

When the oil tempature does not reach tempatures to inadequate to protect it does not matter if you have a 16 grade or a 70 grade. Using a 30 grade when a 20 grade is good does not equate better.

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted by Pinoak
Originally Posted by kschachn
Please, not another one of these "thick vs. thin" threads. The site is littered and choked with them already.

The very definition of a troll thread on here.

Yet your sure to comment on it. "Birds of the same feather flock together" is that how the saying goes?
No offense to the op. Your question might be perfectly legit. Just making a point


Kind of an ignorant point, because as stated if the guber'mint "CAFE" was responsible for 5W-20, then it was for 5W-30 as well...

 

[aquariuscsm]

10W30 was a fuel economy oil as well (1980s-90s?).

 

[demarpaint]

Yes, the site is getting littered with these threads. I'll play though. I run 5W30 in both my Jeeps, an 08 Liberty and 2016 Rubicon. After extensive, and nearly exhausting homework, which included chatting with people who know a lot more than I ever will about the topic I made my decision. I recommend others do their homework as well, and base your decision on your findings. If your homework leads you to a 20 grade, then go for it.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted by 69Torino
XW-30 oil is perfect for nearly any gasoline burning engine in existence. I use XW-30 in my 1947 Ford Tractor, my 2003 Mercury Marauder, my 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe, my 1992 Mercury Capri, my zero turn mower, my 4 stroke string trimmer, my Generac generator, my smaller riding mower, and my 1969 Torino GT with a 390. There is no reason to use anything else unless fuel mileage is your primary concern. It's not mine. My primary concern is engine longevity. That is all. I have nothing more to add to this subject.

So, no facts then?
No proof that the thicker lube leads to "longevity"; or that thinner lube reduces it?

15,000 UOAs and counting; that's what I have in my database. I can show with no uncertainty that most applications do not benefit or suffer from a grade shift up/down one range.

 

[1JZ_E46]

Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
I'll ask you this, why do manufacturers spec a 5W-30 in place of a 0W-20 for towing/severe service? Perhaps it offers more protection than a 0W-20? Just a thought.


Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Better go find that brown wood chair 1JZ_E46

My comment was conveniently ignored.

 

[ka9mnx]

I get it. Some may not...

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted by dnewton3
Originally Posted by 69Torino
XW-30 oil is perfect for nearly any gasoline burning engine in existence. I use XW-30 in my 1947 Ford Tractor, my 2003 Mercury Marauder, my 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe, my 1992 Mercury Capri, my zero turn mower, my 4 stroke string trimmer, my Generac generator, my smaller riding mower, and my 1969 Torino GT with a 390. There is no reason to use anything else unless fuel mileage is your primary concern. It's not mine. My primary concern is engine longevity. That is all. I have nothing more to add to this subject.

So, no facts then?
No proof that the thicker lube leads to "longevity"; or that thinner lube reduces it?

15,000 UOAs and counting; that's what I have in my database. I can show with no uncertainty that most applications do not benefit or suffer from a grade shift up/down one range.


Just don't go with 0W-16. It would have been interesting if they also used 0W-20 or 5W-20 in the testing sequence. I'd have to think the 5W-30 would still come out better than xW-20.

Turbo gasoline direct injection (TGDI) engine-wear test development (January 2018)

 

[Vuflanovsky]

Where's the OP?? This thread is more or less a Cliff Claven convention without his return. My favorite schtick on BITOG is lamenting another "thick vs. thin" thread and then turning it back into one. LOL

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
I'll ask you this, why do manufacturers spec a 5W-30 in place of a 0W-20 for towing/severe service? Perhaps it offers more protection than a 0W-20? Just a thought.


Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Better go find that brown wood chair 1JZ_E46

My comment was conveniently ignored.

It is actually a good point . And obviously, as you suggested, it's because 5w30 protects better under heavier load than 0w20.