Milwaukee Stubby Impact - My Turn to Review

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JHZR2

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There are at least two other reviews on the stubby impacts.

For reference:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...0511/milwaukee-2554-22-3-8-stubby-impact

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4972233/milwaukee-1-2-stubby-great-gun

I decided to buy one after getting a deal on an under hood light, so I had a nice new 4.0 battery (I have a bunch of M12 and M18 stuff but only had smaller M12 batteries).

Tonight I decided to (finally) put my snow tires on. It's February, I know...

So I thought I'd compare. I got a 1/2" stubby, the 2555, and ran it against my 2454 (3/8" brushless fuel m12). I have a 2763 in reserve. The 3/8 unit used a snap-on reversible socket set while the 1/2" used a deep socket directly.

The job was lug nuts. The test was to do two with each tool per wheel, then alternate which got the lock.

My unscientific result on the OE Honda lugs is that both guns removed the same. Same speed, same amount of impacting, etc. The locks are where I found some difference.

One lock I started with the 2454 no luck, went to the stubby, no luck, and the 2763 loosened it on the first impact.

One lock I started with the 2454 no luck, but the stubby loosened it.

One lock I started with the stubby and it loosened the lock.

One lock I started with the stubby, couldn't do it, and the 2763 loosened it on the first or second impact.

Based upon these results, it's not clear to me that the stubby m12 is strong enough to justify purchase for lugnuts. These were just Honda OE lugs and Honda OE locks. I don't know who makes the locks for Honda, but obviously there's some slight difference in the alloy.

Had I tried on either of these tools only, including the "250 ft-lb" of the M12 stubby, Id be stuck reaching for a breaker bar. Maybe that's OK. Maybe that's a suitable mode to some. To me, it means that if Inwanted only one gun, the M12 stubby, as compelling as its form factor is, is not a single solution for a DIYer. One would need to look at the full or mid torque M18, IMO.

If jumping on a breaker bar for a lug bit or something else here and there is ok, then the M12 stubby is perhaps a great option. It's a lot fatter, but a decent amount shorter in both front and rear ends.


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Thank you for that informative post. I did something similar with my Bosch cordless impact, which is about 110 ft/lbs. To make the report brief, it failed to remove any and all of my pickup truck's lug nuts.

There's an ongoing air vs. cordless debate over at the GJ forum. I maintain that cordless is useful and making inroads on air, but is not quite there yet.

At over $500 the 2763 is a real option for the garage without a big air compressor. But it's hard for me to get too excited when I have a $350 used 60 gallon high flow, and an 1150 ft/lb Aircat 1150 is $154 on Amazon (I know, I know, plus the price of a compressor... but... 1150 ft/lbs).
 
I use both, the cordless do a lot of work but many times I need to break out the air gun, mostly on rusted large suspension bolts, crank bolts, etc.
I don't look at it as one being the replacement for another but used together makes it much easier to do the work.
 
I look at it that way as well. As wimpy as my Bosch is, I get my use out of it. But for some they have to weigh-in on every air tool thread and tell people not to spend money on an air tools or an air compressor. As if an air compressor has no other uses (tires, paint, anyone? Even my AirLift coolant filler!)
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
I maintain that cordless is useful and making inroads on air, but is not quite there yet.



That pretty much sums it up. I have air and cordless impact tools. I just used the cordless impact last week for tightening up 20 lag bolts in my basement project. Running the air line from the garage down the basement was more effort that it was worth. The cordless was a big time saver and well worth using in that instance. I'm glad I have both choices.
 
Thanks for the comparison.
One question:
Isn't it unwise to use any impact gun on those troublesome keyed theft deterring nuts / bolts?
I know you squared things up well etc., but still.
The "unique pattern" is so shallow-especially the male element of the tool-I think you'd have to fight the rattling to keep it engaged squarely.
I use a long breaker bar on my neighbor's Honda's anti-theft hardware.
 
Originally Posted by Kira
Thanks for the comparison.
One question:
Isn't it unwise to use any impact gun on those troublesome keyed theft deterring nuts / bolts?
I know you squared things up well etc., but still.
The "unique pattern" is so shallow-especially the male element of the tool-I think you'd have to fight the rattling to keep it engaged squarely.
I use a long breaker bar on my neighbor's Honda's anti-theft hardware.


blush.gif


Learn something new every day...

Was not aware. I'd initially argue that the torque is the torque, and if it's going to round out a weak socket, it's going to do so no matter what... but I've got no proof to back that up.

The dealer gave those to sweeten the deal on the car. Wouldn't have them on otherwise. If I break one I'm ok going back.
 
I love the stubby, I think the dewalt mid-torque will be going on craigslist soon.

My dewalt midtorque can sometimes grunt on lugnuts/lugbolts, so its not surprising the stubby fails on some.

The m12 stubby works just fine on my lower torqued lugnuts.. not so good on the 100lb-ft ones.

Also much easier to use removing and installing mower blades on the tractors.. due to ground clearance.

I already was invested in the m12 setup for other tools.. so a bare tool deal for less than $100 including the rubber boot was worth it to me.
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
Thank you for that informative post. I did something similar with my Bosch cordless impact, which is about 110 ft/lbs. To make the report brief, it failed to remove any and all of my pickup truck's lug nuts.

...

At over $500 the 2763 is a real option for the garage without a big air compressor. But it's hard for me to get too excited when I have a $350 used 60 gallon high flow, and an 1150 ft/lb Aircat 1150 is $154 on Amazon (I know, I know, plus the price of a compressor... but... 1150 ft/lbs).


I'd not expect a 110 ft lb impact to easily remove pickup truck lugnuts if they're torqued close to max rating. My Honda has a rating of 82 or 88, IIRC, so that's pretty far off, which is why the smaller 3/8" unit that I have could do the OE nuts.

The biggest issue with lugs, and why I figured it was an interesting test, is because they tend to chemically seize. Case in point was the lock - seized differently than the rest.

Regarding the 2763 - without a battery/kit, the gun is $199 retail at Home Depot; less elsewhere I'm sure. There's also a mid torque, 600 ft-lb that might be a good bet for most.

The challenge with lugnuts is that the seizure can foil even stronger guns. I used to have an IR cordless, was rated at 450 iirc, couldn't get the bolts off on my old bmw (neither could the 1100 ft-lb Milwaukee that replaces it in some cases). Audios' review, linked above, talks about the stubby and how it was useful for an axle nut, but couldn't do an Audi lug bolt.

So it seems this is all somewhat consistent in challenge and issues. The intent here was to shed some light on the considerations, especially if someone is in a case like mine - they have one gun and are looking at getting another. Would the stubby be the right choice, especially if you have a pickup with bigger lugs, or live in a very salty area? I'm not so sure.

It was also interesting that the stubby traded dimensions one way for dimensions another. It's a lot fatter, but shorter. Is that better for access? Maybe so, given contortions necessary.

Do I think cordless should replace air? No, I think each has its place. And it's great that cordless is getting so strong, because the biggest issue for a shade tree is the cords/air hose. Yes it's simple to lug them out, but if you're time constrained, every step is another 5 minutes lost. Cordless simplifies to some extent. What it doesn't do yet is densify. They aren't smaller than pneumatics. So there will be a place for pneumatics. If and as the electrics get smaller, they'll grow in the market more. However, their prudence in a dedicated shop which will have a compressor for other reasons, and which never goes flat or needs a recharge, means that over the lifecycle, pneumatics will still be the best choice in routine production, IMO.

But the ease of not having a cord means that the cordless has a place too.
 
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Originally Posted by Trav
I use both, the cordless do a lot of work but many times I need to break out the air gun, mostly on rusted large suspension bolts, crank bolts, etc.
I don't look at it as one being the replacement for another but used together makes it much easier to do the work.


Agree. If I had to advise someone on buying tools, and they wanted Milwaukee, I think I'd say to buy the 3/8" stubby and the mid or full torque M18. The complexity of the set and number of jobs they intended to do would define if the highest torque units would be necessary, if they should use air tools also, etc. in a professional shop no doubt both have their place.

If someone was intent on only buying one battery or tool system, the answer would depend upon their expectations. If they're ok with jumping on a breaker bar for some work, then go with the stubby to keep with the smaller/lighter kit for other jobs. If they expect their gun to do all jobs including some heavier ones, go M18. If one has air and is set with max torque capability, then the M12, especially the stubby 3/8 IMO will be a best bet.

In hindsight if anything, I wish I'd have gotten the 3/8 M12 stubby. I'm a fan of wrenching by hand with 1/4" drive, and have generally moved to the philosophy that the smaller the tools, the better.
 
I think an impact is always preferable to using a breaker bar. I broke a lug bolt using a breaker bar with 6' of pipe on the bar. An impact would not have broke the lug bolt.

Needed to bring the hub to a machine shop and they used a milling machine and then put in a Helicoil.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
I think an impact is always preferable to using a breaker bar. I broke a lug bolt using a breaker bar with 6' of pipe on the bar. An impact would not have broke the lug bolt.

Needed to bring the hub to a machine shop and they used a milling machine and then put in a Helicoil.


That's a fine angle/perspective. I think that would be the case too, though Ive heard anecdotally that people can really ruin stuff with a 1100-1400 ft-lb impact as well...

Regardless, then you need the mid or full torque cordless to do lugs properly...
 
Originally Posted by Donald
I think an impact is always preferable to using a breaker bar. I broke a lug bolt using a breaker bar with 6' of pipe on the bar. An impact would not have broke the lug bolt.


I agree.
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Originally Posted by Donald
I think an impact is always preferable to using a breaker bar. I broke a lug bolt using a breaker bar with 6' of pipe on the bar. An impact would not have broke the lug bolt.

Needed to bring the hub to a machine shop and they used a milling machine and then put in a Helicoil.


That's a fine angle/perspective. I think that would be the case too, though Ive heard anecdotally that people can really ruin stuff with a 1100-1400 ft-lb impact as well...

Regardless, then you need the mid or full torque cordless to do lugs properly...


One thing to keep in mind is the electrics regardless if cordless or corded use a different impact mechanism than most air guns, the air mostly use double hammer which is perfect for automotive work and preferable to the pin clutch mechanisms found in the electrics.
Bigger the hammers and more blows per minute is what it takes to remove rusted and stuck fasteners with the least chance of damage not so much torque the pin mechanisms create that try and twist it off.

I learned years ago that torque numbers as far as impacts is a worthless benchmark and nothing more than advertising, I had guns that were rated for about 400 ft lb but hit as hard as ones rated at over 1300 ft lb.
 
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