JHZR2
Staff member
There are at least two other reviews on the stubby impacts.
For reference:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...0511/milwaukee-2554-22-3-8-stubby-impact
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4972233/milwaukee-1-2-stubby-great-gun
I decided to buy one after getting a deal on an under hood light, so I had a nice new 4.0 battery (I have a bunch of M12 and M18 stuff but only had smaller M12 batteries).
Tonight I decided to (finally) put my snow tires on. It's February, I know...
So I thought I'd compare. I got a 1/2" stubby, the 2555, and ran it against my 2454 (3/8" brushless fuel m12). I have a 2763 in reserve. The 3/8 unit used a snap-on reversible socket set while the 1/2" used a deep socket directly.
The job was lug nuts. The test was to do two with each tool per wheel, then alternate which got the lock.
My unscientific result on the OE Honda lugs is that both guns removed the same. Same speed, same amount of impacting, etc. The locks are where I found some difference.
One lock I started with the 2454 no luck, went to the stubby, no luck, and the 2763 loosened it on the first impact.
One lock I started with the 2454 no luck, but the stubby loosened it.
One lock I started with the stubby and it loosened the lock.
One lock I started with the stubby, couldn't do it, and the 2763 loosened it on the first or second impact.
Based upon these results, it's not clear to me that the stubby m12 is strong enough to justify purchase for lugnuts. These were just Honda OE lugs and Honda OE locks. I don't know who makes the locks for Honda, but obviously there's some slight difference in the alloy.
Had I tried on either of these tools only, including the "250 ft-lb" of the M12 stubby, Id be stuck reaching for a breaker bar. Maybe that's OK. Maybe that's a suitable mode to some. To me, it means that if Inwanted only one gun, the M12 stubby, as compelling as its form factor is, is not a single solution for a DIYer. One would need to look at the full or mid torque M18, IMO.
If jumping on a breaker bar for a lug bit or something else here and there is ok, then the M12 stubby is perhaps a great option. It's a lot fatter, but a decent amount shorter in both front and rear ends.
For reference:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...0511/milwaukee-2554-22-3-8-stubby-impact
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4972233/milwaukee-1-2-stubby-great-gun
I decided to buy one after getting a deal on an under hood light, so I had a nice new 4.0 battery (I have a bunch of M12 and M18 stuff but only had smaller M12 batteries).
Tonight I decided to (finally) put my snow tires on. It's February, I know...
So I thought I'd compare. I got a 1/2" stubby, the 2555, and ran it against my 2454 (3/8" brushless fuel m12). I have a 2763 in reserve. The 3/8 unit used a snap-on reversible socket set while the 1/2" used a deep socket directly.
The job was lug nuts. The test was to do two with each tool per wheel, then alternate which got the lock.
My unscientific result on the OE Honda lugs is that both guns removed the same. Same speed, same amount of impacting, etc. The locks are where I found some difference.
One lock I started with the 2454 no luck, went to the stubby, no luck, and the 2763 loosened it on the first impact.
One lock I started with the 2454 no luck, but the stubby loosened it.
One lock I started with the stubby and it loosened the lock.
One lock I started with the stubby, couldn't do it, and the 2763 loosened it on the first or second impact.
Based upon these results, it's not clear to me that the stubby m12 is strong enough to justify purchase for lugnuts. These were just Honda OE lugs and Honda OE locks. I don't know who makes the locks for Honda, but obviously there's some slight difference in the alloy.
Had I tried on either of these tools only, including the "250 ft-lb" of the M12 stubby, Id be stuck reaching for a breaker bar. Maybe that's OK. Maybe that's a suitable mode to some. To me, it means that if Inwanted only one gun, the M12 stubby, as compelling as its form factor is, is not a single solution for a DIYer. One would need to look at the full or mid torque M18, IMO.
If jumping on a breaker bar for a lug bit or something else here and there is ok, then the M12 stubby is perhaps a great option. It's a lot fatter, but a decent amount shorter in both front and rear ends.