Mobil 1 EP 0w-20 10,101 Miles 2016 Accord

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Here's a Blackstone UOA for a car that sees mostly highway miles, 100 miles per day on weekdays. The filter was a Fram XG7317, changed out with the oil. The vehicle was purchased as a Certified Pre--Owned Honda in May of last year with a little over 6500 miles on it. The CarFax indicated that the original dealer changed out the factory fill at 3800 miles. The first sample is an unknown dealer oil added when they certified the vehicle. This vehicle is equipped with the 2.4 liter L4 "Earth Dreams" engine, which is normally aspirated Direct Injection.

I've used this same oil in two other Hondas, but neither were DI engines. The results were far different in those engines, both showing single digit wear number on Aluminum and Iron. My thoughts are to drop the OCI back to 6K on this round and perhaps switch to a 5w-30 the next time. Any opinion on that?
 
Nice car. Try a HTO-6 spec 5w30. Summer coming before long and I would try it at 6k miles give or take. Maybe buy a Fram Ultra filter and change it every other time.
 
Over the past 29 years, I've owned several Hondas and Acuras. I've always found that if you're loyal with regular oil changes, they run almost forever with little oil consumption. I keep my 2013 Accord in Florida where I don't need a 0w oil. Next OC I'll be switching from the dealer's 0w-20 to Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20. Love the 2.4L engine. The CVT not so much.

I'd trim back your interval from 10K to 8K, even with all of those highway miles. It's cheap insurance.
 
Blackstone is notoriously low on fuel % detection, I wouldn't go any farther than 10K, for sure, I bet the fuel number was a little higher, esp. if the oil was coal black when you drained it. 10K on 5W30 EP in my xB is only a light medium brown (not a DI engine).
 
Originally Posted by Marco620
Nice car. Try a HTO-6 spec 5w30.
Isn't that a spec for turbos? I see that M1 EP 5w-30 meets it, so I may just give it a try.

Originally Posted by dave1251
Boring as Boring can be. You can go further if you like 15K miles easy.
Yes and no. Blackstone attributed the wear numbers on the first round to residual break in. Here we are ten thousand miles later and the numbers are heading in the wrong direction. The Iron is running nearly three times what I had seen in either of the Civics that preceded this car using the same oil and filter.
 
I feel like the fuel dilution is off based on the flashpoint.

I'm not sure what I think about the rest of it yet. What did they say the universal averages are based on mileage wise and do they differentiate between versions of the K24 (For instance they lump the Acura in with "Honda 3.5L" which are mostly J35 vs the Acuras C35)
 
Originally Posted by DuckRyder
I feel like the fuel dilution is off based on the flashpoint.

I'm not sure what I think about the rest of it yet. What did they say the universal averages are based on mileage wise and do they differentiate between versions of the K24 (For instance they lump the Acura in with "Honda 3.5L" which are mostly J35 vs the Acuras C35)
Don't know - what you see is what you get!
 
Astro, I'm not sure what's going on with your Honda, but I know that my Odyssey likely ran conventional 5W20 for most of its life prior to me getting it at 134k. I drove it home 2200 miles and then drained it (likely around 6500-7k total miles) and the iron was OMFG 31 ppm, the highest I've ever personally had. I was sure it was doomed. I dropped that OCI and filled with non-GTL PP 5W20 for two 3k OCIs and drained and changed the filter. Then I did a 7600 mile OCI on PP Euro 0W40 and iron dropped all the way down to 8ppm, and has stayed under double digits ever since in the ensuing 50k miles of service.

I'm not sure why your iron would have stayed so high, but I would do a short 3k OCI with good filter, dump it, and then go back to a regular 8-10k OCI. Also, remember, that Mobil1 has a tendency to "show" higher iron numbers than comparable oils, but this can simply be due to the detergent makeup of Mobil compared to the other oil previously used. Overkill and I had a big discussion on it... I know some think this shows that Mobil1 causes more wear than other oils, but you also have to remember that by the time a UOA will give you any real data on impending doom, it's likely already just around the corner.

I wouldn't worry too much, but I would do the short OCI to flush out anything that had settled... make sure you take the car for a 20-30 minute drive before you drain the oil, and try to minimize the time after you shut it off to the drain time so that as much as possible is still suspended in the oil.
 
Something else to check is your intake and air filter. Make sure everything is assembled properly and the filter is also fitted properly and in good condition.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
I dropped that OCI and filled with non-GTL PP 5W20 for two 3k OCIs and drained and changed the filter. Then I did a 7600 mile OCI on PP Euro 0W40 and iron dropped all the way down to 8ppm, and has stayed under double digits ever since in the ensuing 50k miles of service. ............... remember, that Mobil1 has a tendency to "show" higher iron numbers than comparable oils.


I would like to see what Pennz does over the same exact 10,101 mile interval
 
I'd go to at least a 30 grade for sure, you are getting a lot more fuel dilution than Blackstone says IMO. You can really see it in the viscosity and flash point. And that is unfortunately noticeable in the iron and aluminum both of which are higher than they should be for a highway mile driven Honda. Your TBN is great I'd try another 10k OCI but with a thicker 30 grade and I'd change up brands too. JMO.
 
Hi Astro, I was wondering what you get in fuel economy/mpg with all that highway...

Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Isn't that a spec for turbos? I see that M1 EP 5w-30 meets it, so I may just give it a try.


Mobil 1 0W-20 EP is reportedly very high in PAO, as least as of recently...
 
I'd run a good 5W30 synthetic, cut the OCI to 7,500 miles, and check the air intake plumbing. Get a UOA after a 7,500 mile run with the 5W30, and decide if you want to extend the OCI or not. I wouldn't use a 20 grade oil.
 
If this is a D.I. and/or with turbo, I would lose all that PAO (which is not a friend of direct inject) and move into a 5w30. Try Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Castrol Edge EP.
 
What exactly is wrong with POA oil in TGDI? I'm running it with pretty good success and excellent UOAs
 
Why run oil to the ground? I will stick to my 5k OCIs.

You can't correlate lab tests to real world wear and tear. I am sorry.
 
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by Marco620
Nice car. Try a HTO-6 spec 5w30.
Isn't that a spec for turbos? I see that M1 EP 5w-30 meets it, so I may just give it a try.

Originally Posted by dave1251
Boring as Boring can be. You can go further if you like 15K miles easy.
Yes and no. Blackstone attributed the wear numbers on the first round to residual break in. Here we are ten thousand miles later and the numbers are heading in the wrong direction. The Iron is running nearly three times what I had seen in either of the Civics that preceded this car using the same oil and filter.



UOA's do not tell a thing about wear its in PPM you can not even see 29 PPM with a magnifying glass.
 
Originally Posted by PPWarrior
Why run oil to the ground? I will stick to my 5k OCIs.

You can't correlate lab tests to real world wear and tear. I am sorry.



It's not even close to being ran into the ground. If you believe so studying UOA's for a couple dozen of hours will help you
 
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